Annealing

[wonderwolf]

I've been trolling around and reading dif annealing processes. From the auto set up shown Here (http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html) to the simple lead pot method. I have some 45-70 that were once 40-60 and desperately need annealed. I have a lead thermometer and since these are basically straight walled cases I don't see the danger of getting unseen crud stuck inside the case. Anybody else try to anneal cases? any helpful tips info?
these cases are very work hardened from being sized down then blown back out. I'll get much better case life if I get these softened up a bit

[woofert]

wonderwolf

I used to make 8mm Mauser cases from 30-06 brass, after forming I used the heat and quench method described as the "Traditional Methods" in the link you posted. I did it in the dark so just as the brass started to turn red I’d quench it, I’d changed the water every 25 cases or so. I’ve never kept track of the number of reloadings I got with each case though, but it seemed to work O.K

Woofert

[cimmaronkid]

Save yourself a lot of time and aggrevation, put the 40-60 on e-bay and buy some 45-70 cases. It would be a lot easier.

If you are bound and determined to do this, I recommend using a torch and dropping them into water instead of using the lead pot. Just a lot safer. Also follow Woofert's advice and do it at night or in a dark room with just a little light. I use an OvenGlove to hold the brass and turn it in the flame.

Usually, if you buy Remington or Winchester brass, you won't have to anneal, especially Remington. If you use Starline brass, you might be forced to anneal but I always shoot at least one load from new brass to see if I get any blow by on the sidewalls.

Brass will last a LOT LONGER if you anneal every so often, and with the price of brass going up, I think that more of us will be doing this.

I would like to get a new Sharps in either 45-90 or 45-110, but every time I price these, I choke.

[wonderwolf]

All the cases have already been blown out to 45-70 But I'm worried about case failures with splitting and such.

[wonderwolf]

I tried annealing them with the water pan and propane torch method I practiced on a bunch of botched 30/06 brass and I got the hang of it after a while. I think I didnt put enough heat on the 1st few 45/70 cases but the rest are good. I just need to cast more 405gr bullets now cause I can never seem to keep them around more than a month...I'm already down 2 coffee cans of 44 and 45 cast bullets that I did over spring break :sterb029:

[Jacobite]

I use the water pan method but have read about holding them in your bare fingers and heating till you feel them get hot to the touch. Your fingers are your thermometer. I think I will do it that way next time as it will be easier to get the heat all the way around. I usually only anneal the KA stamped 30-06 brass as it is real hard.

Woofert,
How did you do your 30-06 to 8mm conversion? Just a pass through the 8mm die then fire form? I really need some 8mm brass and have quite a bunch of 30-06 for my M1's and could spare some. I guess after the forming use a dremel tool with a cut off disk to cut excess close before useing the case trimmer?

[arnaiz]

I use the water pan method but have read about holding them in your bare fingers and heating till you feel them get hot to the touch. Your fingers are your thermometer. I think I will do it that way next time as it will be easier to get the heat all the way around. I usually only anneal the KA stamped 30-06 brass as it is real hard.

Woofert,
How did you do your 30-06 to 8mm conversion? Just a pass through the 8mm die then fire form? I really need some 8mm brass and have quite a bunch of 30-06 for my M1's and could spare some. I guess after the forming use a dremel tool with a cut off disk to cut excess close before useing the case trimmer?
Yes you are right, also remember that new 8mm neck will be harder and wider that original 8mm case, so anealing will cure first and outside neck turning will do the rest. If 8 mm rounds are going to be used in an old mauser last work might be not necesary, make a dummy and check it.
If you beguin with 270 Win cases will have less work.
Process:
expand neck case to 325 330 " dia. run 8 mauser die witout expander in place, trim to 2.24" and full length size.

[woofert]

Woofert,
How did you do your 30-06 to 8mm conversion? Just a pass through the 8mm die then fire form? I really need some 8mm brass and have quite a bunch of 30-06 for my M1's and could spare some. I guess after the forming use a dremel tool with a cut off disk to cut excess close before useing the case trimmer?

Jacobite,

To form 8mm Mauser from 30-06 brass I had picked up a used 8mm sizing die at a gun show, took it apart and used a dremil tool with a cutting disk, a grinder and a file to cut down the length of the die so when used in my press, it was about 1/16” longer than when a the max length 8mm case was ran up into it.

Then when a 30-06 case was formed in the cut down die, the excess stuck out the top and I used a hack saw to cut it off flush with the top of the die, then I would anneal and chamfer the I.D.

Once all that was done, I neck sized the case in a standard full length sizing die, just enough to get the case mouth open to 8mm, then trim the case to length.

I never had any problems with the O.D. so I didn’t have turn the outside of the necks.

Like I said earlier, I can’t recall how may times I reloaded those cases but I’m sure I never had a split neck.

At one time RCBS made a die that did the same thing as the one I made, that’s were the idea came from, but if memory serves me, it wasn’t cheep.

Woofert