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View Full Version : A couple of care questions



jlpskydive
04-17-2007, 03:44 PM
I finally got around to taking the Yugo 59/66 apart and have a few questions the take down screw looks like it has been punched on the opposite side of the screw head so it can't be unscrewed. What's the best way to get this out without marring up the rifle? What's the best cosmo cleaner? Kerosene is it safe on the finish? And I still have found no import marks. Thanks for your help.

Geilt
04-17-2007, 03:52 PM
I finally got around to taking the Yugo 59/66 apart and have a few questions the take down screw looks like it has been punched on the opposite side of the screw head so it can't be unscrewed. What's the best way to get this out without marring up the rifle? What's the best cosmo cleaner? Kerosene is it safe on the finish? And I still have found no import marks. Thanks for your help.


By take down screw are you referring to the cross pin with the flat nut with two holes on one side and a regular flat tip slot on the opposite?

For cosmoline I love the marine version of Break Clean and the regular Break Clean, both by CRC. It doesn't harm the finish at all and what cosmoline it doesn't get rid of right away, it dries up to the point where you can get rid of it with a few picks and a toothbrush. I put the parts I need to clean in (or over if they are too big) in a plastic tub and then spray. The run off is still a good cleaner so you can soak your smaller parts.

okie shooter
04-17-2007, 04:01 PM
Same question here, Is what you are talking about the stock reinforceing cross pin? To take it down you just use a blunt object(screw driver, cleaning rod or something else) to push in the dimple on the trigger guard keeper and it pops the trigger guard off of the receiver, then you can pop the receiver out of the stock without tools.

jlpskydive
04-17-2007, 05:14 PM
I'm reffering to the crossbolt on the SKS that runs sideways just under the front sight not the trigger group. It's called a takedown pin on a Ruger 10/22 which is what I have been working on this week so sorry for the confusion. Thanks again.

jlpskydive
04-17-2007, 05:16 PM
Also, where can you get a new floor plate for a 30 round mag?

texlurch
04-17-2007, 05:21 PM
Are you talking about the one with the arrow pointing at it? If so, no reason to remove that to take the gun apart.

Just use a small pointed chisel and pop the retainer pin at the rear of the trigger, and it will rotate out. Then the barrel/receiver comes out the top.

If you are not familiar with the SKS take down, best to study one of the many online guides before the parts go flying.

tump
04-17-2007, 05:23 PM
what kind of mag duck bill? i have an old one you can have the follower is crap but the rest should be ok. i couldn't get it to feed for crap.

jlpskydive
04-17-2007, 05:36 PM
what kind of mag duck bill? i have an old one you can have the follower is crap but the rest should be ok. i couldn't get it to feed for crap.


Yep the duck bill type. I'll take it if you want to send it how much for shipping to 27616. and thanks. As far as the take down this is the first one I have tried in the original stock all the rest were bubbafied. That is the screw I'm talking about so THANKS for the heads up that it does not come out!!!

texlurch
04-17-2007, 05:45 PM
Only reason to remove is if you are completely stripping the stock down, and even then you don't have to.

jlpskydive
04-17-2007, 05:51 PM
Thanks it's taken down as far as I need it to be so, thanks again. I just needed to push a little harder. Any thoughts on kerosene to clean the cosmo?

texlurch
04-17-2007, 06:14 PM
I've heard it can soak in the stock and make refinishing harder, but I have never used it. Usually one or 2 cans of cheap brake cleaner is all it takes, and doesn't harm the wood or finish. Plus it evaporates, leaves no residue, and gives you a high pressure to blast the stubborn stuff out.

That being said, plenty of folks use kerosene. Heck, I know a few that take theirs to the car wash and hit it with degreaser!

Worse one I have had for cosmo was a M44 that was unarsenaled; that one took two cans and the nylon brush.


And FYI make sure to disassemble the firing pin and clean the bolt real good. Sticking FP = full auto fun till the clip runs out....

nevada
04-17-2007, 07:36 PM
From what I've read import marks are generaly on the barrel, forward of the gas tube. Some are light and hard to see. I thought my Russian didn't have an import mark until I read about the barrel and checked real close. It's nice that it's not real obvious.

I used brake cleaner to help remove the finish on my swedish mauser, don't use it with the metal and wood still attached to each other.

jlpskydive
04-18-2007, 06:57 AM
From what I've read import marks are generaly on the barrel, forward of the gas tube. Some are light and hard to see. I thought my Russian didn't have an import mark until I read about the barrel and checked real close. It's nice that it's not real obvious.

I used brake cleaner to help remove the finish on my swedish mauser, don't use it with the metal and wood still attached to each other.

I finally found it underneath the bayonet - SAMCO MIA, FL - M59/66A1 ZCZ YUGO 7.62X39 - Know anything about SAMCO? It was done very lightly

SteelCore
04-18-2007, 08:29 AM
"disassemble the firing pin and clean the bolt real good. Sticking FP = full auto fun till the clip runs out...."

-->unless you switch the gas tube off, whih you can do on the Yugos.

I'd advise against mag replacement...it may run you afoul of 922r, and it makes the reliablity questionalbe. As I was told and I believe, if you wanna mag-fed SKS, get an SKS-D or an AK. (I chose option B)

You'll love the accuracy of the Yugo SKS...they're mighty nice out to even 200-300yds (I think about 400yds is the limit of the effective range for this round)

texlurch
04-18-2007, 09:55 AM
"disassemble the firing pin and clean the bolt real good. Sticking FP = full auto fun till the clip runs out...."

-->unless you switch the gas tube off, whih you can do on the Yugos.


If it was to start slam firing, I doubt anyone would have the presence of mind or the time to reach up and pop the gas button over, before the standard mag was empty. Not to mention where the muzzle would end up pointing while you are attempting it...


Best bet is to just get all the cosmo out in the first place...

SteelCore
04-18-2007, 11:09 AM
I'm not saying that, I'm saying I teste mine first with the gas tube off.

Also test with only two rounds in the mag, so it don;t go crazy.

I just made sure the plin floated freely enough not to get stuck in the 4ward position.

I later punched the pin out (whatta biyatch of a thing to free up!), then pulled th firing pin out, and cleaned the channel. The only prob was that after a really really thorough cleaning, the darn thing sarted piercing primer on the Wolf Mil Calssic ammo (but not the Wolf black box or Brown Bear)...so wither the Mil classic had soft primers, or I cleaned too much.

My solution will prolly be to just get th spring loadd pin and carrier that you can find for sale. Hopefully, that will stop the problem.

The best test to see if you got allthe cosmo outt the SKS is to shoot it in the winter, below freezing. cosmo is like glue then. if you missed any you will know right away be the rifle giving light primer strikes (check hammer and hammer springs) or FTE (carrier needs cleaned) or FTL (mag springs need cleaned)

Get all of it outta the gas tube, too.