Ejection Problems

[esninak]

ok so ive had my cetme for a couple years now, put over 1400 rounds through it. i decided to pull the trigger pack apart and polish the surfaces up. trigger is much better now, but it wont eject. about every third round it FTE. some times the spent case is half way out, and others its jammed in with the next round. WHAT DID I DO:help: . the ejector lever rides up the bolt groov and is touching the bolt like it should. before i took my trigger pack apart i never had a FTE. what could it be? any kind of help would be great guys.

[esninak]

just to add to the original post i checked my BG and its at .010" i believe thats in spec. and when it does eject the cases just kinda falls out of the ejection port. every once and awhile it chucks the case a good 30' like old times. how did something change so drasticly from the last time i shot it.

[jfowl31]

I dont know how you could have assembled it wrong, but maybe it got bent when you pull it out somehow... you could try shimming your pack so it rides higher, or buy a new ejector from makarov.com.

Either way, it seems like the problem is the ejector not hitting the spent casings all the time, and thats why they eject well when they do eject at all.

and yes .010 is perfect gap-wise as long as youve got cocking tube gap and no ground bolt.

Id pull it out and make sure everythings in the right spot again... perhaps take it apart and put it back together again. and if that doesnt fix it, shim the trigger pack higher, and if still nothing, replace the ejector with a new one.

[esninak]

i know the TP is together right, ive compared it to my step dads which i knwo works. ill try shimming the pack, maybe order a new ejector tommarow. thanks jfolw31

[texlurch]

How long has it been since you gave the flutes a real good cleaning?

[rustypirate]

This culd be dirty flutes, but it sounds like a bent recoil guide rod to me.

The recoil guide rod can easily get bent during disassembly, and will cause short stroking or FTE problems.

I would check the guide rod first, and also make sure that the flutes are clean while I was at it.

[jfowl31]

good point rusty... that could explain why it came on so suddenly as well.

[esninak]

i know the flutes are clean, thats the first thing i checked. the guide rod shounds like it could be it, sometimes when i charge a round the bolt barly closes, like there is too much resistance. thanks ill check it out today.

[Geilt]

Before you start throwing money at the problem on suspected parts try a couple things first.

This should be easy enough to troubleshoot as you said your step father has a Cetme as well. Take the FCG from his, heck the whole grip frame and all, and put it on your rifle. If it works then you have only to look at your grip frame and its installed components.

Starting with the guide rod check that it is in fact straight. Not 'looks straight' but STRAIGHT. When cocking back does it feel tight at all? Any binding points as you pull back the cocking lever?

By chance did you install a new scope mount or take one off and put it back on? Certain styles of mounts on stamped receivers have been known to bind up the bolt as they compress the receiver just enough to interfere with movement.

[esninak]

ok ill try switching trigger frames tommarow. i checked my guide rod and its strait ass an arrow. now heres the crazy part when i compared it to my step dads i noticed that his rod purdy bent, but his works flawlesly. this problem is starting to get on my nerves, but i guess there is a good side. i go through way less ammo when my cetme is a single shot:grin2:

[bataanboy]

I was having a similar experience with my Century Cetme. Seemed to be in the extractor spring. I could wiggle the extractor with my finger, no tension. I ordered a new one from Robertrtg and was back shooting.

[97th Signalman]

I was having a similar experience with my Century Cetme. Seemed to be in the extractor spring. I could wiggle the extractor with my finger, no tension. I ordered a new one from Robertrtg and was back shooting.


The extractor suggestion seems plausible given all the other stuff you have tried so far. By the way what ammo have you been shooting? Any changes there?

[esninak]

i did notice that my exstractor was really loose and i fixed it, but it didnt help my problem. tomarrow im gonna try switching trigger packs, see what happens. i have changed ammo, last time it worked i was shooting WOLF, the new stuff is Norinco and SA, neither work in my gun, but flawlesly in my step dad's. ill get back after tommarrow.

[Buelligan]

I took the G3 and some DAG BLUE and the 22/G3 kit to my Moms farm yester day for Moms day . After shooting 50 DBs I had some FTE probs . I slapped in the 22 kit . The same thing, every other rnd stove piped or did not eject . So back to the good old MUZZEL LOADERs and some others firearms. Today as I inspected the G3, I noticed the EJECTOR LEVER my be worn . I put one in from my spare CETME parts and it seems to ride a bit higher. My trigger pac is allso kind of low so I might shim it and order a new EJECTOR LEVER from good old RTG. ANY IDEAs ??????

[Buelligan]

Should the trigger pac be at the same level at the top of the gripe frame??? What should the eject lever measure at the end that ejects the shell???

[wwIIBuff]

Retro tread

[Buelligan]

HEY WW2buff. I got the 71 and 72 to day . THANKS again . Retro tread 1981 M635.

[Buelligan]

I think my eject lever was on the sketchy side to start . Now after blasting like 250 rnds of dagblue I think it took the ejector lever out of spec. Dagblue has a STEAL case down at the end. But I can shim my trig pac up , and it works.