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View Full Version : Car Help, locating a part (used or new)



Enigma Nostra
07-12-2009, 06:33 PM
Hey guys, I need a little help.

I have a friend that is going to trade me a 2003 Chrysler Sebring Sedan, with about 2000 miles on the new engine that was put in.

Problems :
1) Cosmetically needs a few parts, interior plastic and exterior stuff like a busted light cover. Those should be easy enough to live without or pick up here and there, they dont affect operation.
2) After the car was fixed from his daughter getting in an accident (this lead to the new engine) it seems that she or one of her friends hit something and didnt tell anyone, she just said that it stopped working. Investigated fact that it was leaking oil. 2 Issues
a) The Oil Filter seems jammed up. Will deal with this secondaryily, its at least on there.
b) There is physical damage and holes in the oil pan. JB Weld did not fix.

My friend has been trying to get this going off and on for the past 9 mo since we started working on this deal. Im getting it for a good price, even with the hassle, but im sick of waiting for him to have time to fully work on it.

So im putting out the call for the part that is hanging us up. I am looking for the Oil Pan

Specs -
2003 Chrysler Sebring Sedan, 4 Dr
2.4 L Engine

I can get a gasket thru autozone, but they dont even carry the part through special order.

Im hoping to do this on the cheap as much as possible. Unless you run into stuff, generally these dont take that much damage from what I can tell, otherwise I wouldnt have so much of a hard time getting one.

If anyone can point me in the direction, or has a local place that will pull it, please throw me a line. Ill cover shipping etc, plus whatever I can spare for your efforts in addition to costs. Im hoping to avoid the Dealership, as odds are they are going to ream me.

Physical Area - Murfreesboro TN, south of nashville.

-E

Caeb75
07-12-2009, 06:53 PM
I hate to tell you buddy....The oil pan is going to be a dealer only item unless you can find it in a salvage yard.

AZIROC
07-12-2009, 06:55 PM
idk if it works in your state, this website is GREAT for AZ. u can find ANYTHING.
www.aara.com

EDIT:

ok, that website IS for just AZ

u cn try calling any of these places..

http://www.yardquest.com/location_Tennessee_junk_yards.aspx

this website has new oil pans...

http://www.racepages.com/parts/oil_pan/chrysler/sebring.html


besides that, id try craigslist maybe ebay. but it looks like its gonna cost ya.

Buelligan
07-12-2009, 07:04 PM
The next time I hit the bone yard I will check for you. ?#1 can the pan come off with out jacking the motor, ?#2 can you yank the pan and weld it ? I have been hitting the yards with my buddy for 3 weeks now looking for some BMW parts that I need. I am about done, but when I go back this week I will Recon it for you.

AZIROC
07-12-2009, 07:14 PM
dropping the oil pan:

http://www.ehow.com/how_4508111_drop-oil-pan-chrysler-sebring.html

Instructions
Things You'll Need:

* Jack and jack stands
* Oil drip pan
* Wrench

Step 1

Prepare the vehicle before dropping the oil pan by placing it on a secure surface that is flat. Use a jack and jack stands to raise the vehicle according to the jack's manufacturer instructions.

Step 2

Drain all oil from the oil pan by first unscrewing the oil cap under the hood, found on the right side of the vehicle next to the engine, usually labeled. Then, place an oil drip pan under the oil pan under the vehicle, located between the tires directly under the engine.

Step 3

Use a wrench to unscrew the oil drain plug, located directly on the oil pan. The plug's removal will cause oil to drain from the oil pan into the drip pan you've placed below it. Allow to drain fully for 5 to 10 minutes.

Step 4

Remove the negative battery cable, the transaxle bending bracket and the front engine mount and bracket. These are located surrounding the oil pan and are removed using a wrench or socket set.

Step 5

Disconnect the structural cover that surrounds the oil pan by loosening the bolts holding it in place with a wrench. Next, remove the transaxle inspection cover located next to the oil pan, the oil filter. All vehicles will air conditioning will also need the oil filter adapter removed from the oil pan.

Step 6

Drop the oil pan into your hands by removing the final connecting bolts located around the edge of the pan itself. The oil pan gasket will also fall off and a new one should be put in place.



Tips & Warnings

*
In the 2.4L engine, you'll only need to remove the negative battery cable, oil dipstick, front exhaust pipe and bell housing cover to allow for the oil pan to drop.

*
In the 2.5L engine, you will need to remove the negative battery cable, the exhaust cross under pipe, drive belt splash shield and the oil dipstick tube. You will then need to remove the starter and the engine to transaxle bending braces to gain access to the transaxle inspection cover and finally the oil pan.

*
In the 2.7L Sebring engine, you will need to remove the negative battery cable, the oil dipstick tube, the structural cover for the engine, the exhaust cross under pipe, then the torque converter cover. You also need to locate the lower bolt from the air conditioning compressor, located next to the oil pan in order for the oil pan to drop.

Enigma Nostra
07-12-2009, 07:34 PM
Thanks guys.

Race Pages only has for the 6 cyl, mines the 4 cyl unfortuantly.

-E

SSwee
07-12-2009, 07:57 PM
Tap it out and braze it up.
SS

Arkane
07-12-2009, 09:26 PM
https://www.1stchryslerparts.com/oe_parts_catalog.html has them. Looks liek the model you need is around 95 bucks. Note the parts they sell are brand new condition, usually NOS. I've bought quite a bit form them over the last couple of years, and they are reputable.

Drill down through the engine and lubrication section.

Buelligan
07-12-2009, 09:48 PM
I have welded a plate over a hole in a oil pan before and it works.

nevada
07-14-2009, 04:24 AM
Did it "just stop running" due to lack of oil? You might need an engine.

Buelligan
07-14-2009, 05:38 AM
I am going to the bone yard in an HR. I will see if they have one.

Buelligan
07-14-2009, 08:06 AM
I am back from the bone yard . They have 2 donors ,1 02 and 1 03 2.4 sebring . The pan is 20 bucs. Let me know if you want me to go back and pull it for you, They look good too.Do a cross ref serch to see if the 02 will fit . That one is easyer to get off.

Enigma Nostra
07-14-2009, 10:47 AM
Were they DOHC or SOHC?

From the literature I am getting, the 02 *should* be the same. You have the two to compare however.

If your willing, that would be great, compared to the 130 price im getting from the dealer.

-E

Buelligan
07-14-2009, 11:10 AM
OH man I did not look for that detale. I will go back tomarow and see if it iss the one that you want let me know if i should snag it. I dont mind going back , I am all ways on a recon for BMW parts and new cars come in every day.

Enigma Nostra
07-14-2009, 11:38 AM
Let me double check the engine in it, ill drop a message today. If they have one that will work, I would appreciate you getting it to me.

Thanks,

-E

Buelligan
07-14-2009, 11:41 AM
Let Me know if SOHC or DOHC .

Enigma Nostra
07-14-2009, 11:48 AM
DOHC, PM sent.

-E

Buelligan
07-14-2009, 02:04 PM
I think DOHC is what they are, it had a sticker on the pasenger side that had a bar code and 4.2 or what ever I said it was before. ! was silver and the other was Burgedy. I forgot my camera, I all way take it with me to get pics of old cars and parts Me and my BMW and BENZ friends need for our Performance mods.

Buelligan
07-15-2009, 05:30 AM
I will get it ti day and take pics of the cars for you.

Buelligan
07-15-2009, 10:49 AM
GOT IT, It was a NIGHTMARE there to day , but the pan is good . You can see in the pic it has a scrape on it, But it is not leaking. They are supose to drain the oil for EPA reasons . They did not on this car. The funny part of it is I got sprayed in the mug with oil when I popped it off , that is the oil slick in front of the car.

KMURPHY
07-15-2009, 11:01 AM
I love scavanging in the bone yards...

Buelligan
07-15-2009, 11:05 AM
I do too. BUT I have been in and out of 3 or4 of them for 3 weeks now with my VERY ANGRY buddy who looks like Rommel . Dale my buddy is the angryest man ib the world. I escaped from him this week thank GOD.

Enigma Nostra
07-15-2009, 11:35 AM
Crap, sorry about the hassle mate.

-E

Buelligan
07-15-2009, 12:02 PM
Its no big deal . I will clean the pan before I ship it.

Buelligan
07-16-2009, 07:42 AM
Here it is all clean and ready to put right on. I added some of the bolts from it and CRs stickers , CRs price sheet. Its on its way, should be in 3 days .:thumbup:

Buelligan
07-16-2009, 08:09 AM
Hey if anyone out there is a BONE YARD hitter. I need an 1989 engine harness a fuse box for my 1981 BMW 635. The one to the 535 will work too. I have done more racing mods the the old 6er and have up dated the ECU to the 179 ECU to use the WARCHIP and MAF made by Miller performance cars inc. Now I have to change alot of stuff for this ECU to run my TURBO on the old 6er.

Enigma Nostra
07-21-2009, 10:58 PM
Update - The oil pan has been replaced. In the course of doing so, we found that the damage from the young lady who "didnt" hit anything hitting something (at speed and sturdy from what we can tell) managed to crack a mounting bracket. As well as dent the oil filter. Which was about an inch or so away from what dented it.

Ill try to get pics later, but as of current (after replacing the bracket with one from the dealer, and the oil filter from autozone (who couldnt even find the bracket in their system)) it runs, and seems to be happy. Possibly some issues with the alternator, taking it down tomorrow morning and having them run a check on it.

A big thanks to Buelligan for his help, would have been alot more expensive otherwise. There will be a package headed your way with some goodies soon.

Now just replace the wipers, clean it out, fix some trim and run some navel jelly and paint around the car in spots, and I should be good for a while.... anyone need some other cars, in various states of working? ^^

-E

bladeworks123
07-21-2009, 11:18 PM
Like that Beamer Buell.... it is a classic!!! :icon_biggrin:

Buelligan
07-23-2009, 01:40 PM
BLADEWORKS ,Thanks for the spare DAG-BLUE LOL and the bimmer ROCKS.

Buelligan
07-23-2009, 01:43 PM
EN, what does the bracket look like?? The oil pan had one at the end , but it did not seem like it did any thing so I left it. I can go back and get it if that is the one you need, or any other brackets.:thumbup:

Enigma Nostra
07-23-2009, 02:08 PM
I replaced the bracket with one from the dealer. Was not too much, and its the sort of item that I would rather not risk the stress that one from the boneyard may have had put on it.

Prefer to keep my engine *in* the car.

-E

Buelligan
07-23-2009, 03:20 PM
Good Idea I wont use brackets that have stress on them from the bone yard ,like ones that support the motor. I hope the install went well.

Enigma Nostra
07-23-2009, 03:33 PM
Well enough. The car runs, the alternator was fine, the "extra" battery that we had at the time (pulled from one of the trucks) was the culprit.

new tires, going to install new brakes when I get back from florida shoot. Will get you my list of busted trim etc on monday odds are.

-E

Buelligan
07-23-2009, 04:01 PM
OK That sounds good. Have fun at the SHOOT. I hope some one will post some pics of it.