Convert or sale?

[drine]

Got a question for you splatter gun types. I got a Mossberg 500 Turkey gun that I don't use, much. It has a screw in ported choke and nice wood. I'd like a shorter barrel, longer tube, synthetic stock, ghost rings, zombie killer. Should I break this one down and build it back or sell it and use the proceeds for one already built. There's one catch. I wouldn't shell out 600 bucks or so for an uber-built riot gun. There are other toys I'd like first.

[19Charlie_84]

Price out the parts you want to have on your anti-zombie device and if its less than what you would get from selling it, start hacking. Also remember you can sell the parts you take off the original as well.

[drine]

Good idea. Haven't started pricing yet but an extended tube and decent stock shouldn't be too expensive. I had a Mossberg once that had a FAL type once piece stock with grip. It looked pretty good but functioned VERY good. You could almost one-hand it. I'll start pricing parts now.

[7.62guy]

Good idea. Haven't started pricing yet but an extended tube and decent stock shouldn't be too expensive. I had a Mossberg once that had a FAL type once piece stock with grip. It looked pretty good but functioned VERY good. You could almost one-hand it. I'll start pricing parts now.

sounds like a good idea to me. maybe a knoxx folding stock. i picked up an extened tube and shorter barrel for my mossberg off ebay for like a hundred. let us know how it works out.

[Optimus Prime]

Have you looked at the new SPX series Mossberg's got? I haven't seen one in a store yet, but they've got a 20" and 18 1/2" barreled models with long mags, ghost rings, and all the goodies right off the bat. Not sure on the prices yet, but it's another option.
I'm thinking about one for three gun and stuff.

[badmojoman]

I think it would be cheaper to convert it and still keep the parts that you take off.
http://www.thegunsource.com/item/6649_Mossberg_Barrels__Choke_Tubes_Mossberg_90015_ 500_Barrel.aspx

http://www.thegunsource.com/category/888-Mossberg_Pistol_Grip_Stocks.aspx

Craig

[drine]

They have some nice stuff. I ignorantly forgot about the barrel. It is ribbed so I do need to buy one. I think I'll make this my winter project. I've read from some of you guys the Knoxx stock makes the recoil very tame. I do want a fixed stock with a pistol grip so that looks even better.

[drine]

I saw the Knight's Armament 12 ga that attaches to your AR15. It is interesting to say the least. It does require the old tax stamp because it is under 18". Strike 1! Second it is a proprietary mount. Strike 2! Third it is 1850.00. Strike 3! WTF, over. It is an 870 Police magnum cut down and a special mount. I figured 850.00 at best plus a stamp. I'm in the wrong biz.
Not real practical either, just not many kids on the block have one.

[wonderwolf]

http://wonderwolfs.blogspot.com/2008/10/part-1-from-doves-to-defense-shotgun.html

Theres 3 parts to it. See what can be done with a $150 gun and a lil money in parts?

[drine]

I'll be watching.

[okie shooter]

Drine, the other segements are on his blog, just hit the newer segments at the bottom of the page there.

[drine]

Thanks, just read the rest of the article. Nice upgrade. I think I'd like to Duracoat it once done. I've never put a finish on the CETME only high quality auto spray paint. The Mossberg looks easier to paint and I could practice.

[wonderwolf]

Thanks, just read the rest of the article. Nice upgrade. I think I'd like to Duracoat it once done. I've never put a finish on the CETME only high quality auto spray paint. The Mossberg looks easier to paint and I could practice.

I'll be messing with some dura coat for the first time this month on two guns. I'll try and do a blog write up on it. I'm going to do a AR-15 and my Browning hi power

[drine]

OK folks, I am off of work today with a sick child. The GunKote will be here today. It seems straight forward enough as far as cleaning, degreasing, and spraying 3 or 4 light coats. Least wise that's what the VIDEO says. This product has to cure in an oven. I see that you can leave it sit overnight to let a lot of the solvents naturally evaporate then cure it without a lot of smell. Here's the questions: Must the parts hang and not contact any surface? Second, is bead blasting a must? No problem with doing that and it would probably look better with the flat OD green color I've picked.

[drine]

Glad nobody answered yet because the semi-finished gun is on my workbench now. The place I bought the forearm and pistol grip from sent two grips and no forearm. The rest is painted and assembled. I did not blast it but used a scotchbrite pad and rough the whole thing up. I had a 1/4 drill rod I cut to the width of the oven sides and was able to hang everything. Using a hair dryer is key. The slide actually sat on the top rack and didn't make any marks in the paint. It is dried at that point but NOT cured. This part wasn't as important as the receiver or barrel so I'm glad I gave it a shot.
For those of you who haven't used any of the bake on finishes I can't stress enough the prep work. There is one secret I don't recall reading and that deals with pre-heating the parts. BEFORE painting and AFTER the initial degreasing, put your parts in a 300 degree oven just as you are going to cure it. That way you will leach out hidden oils such as press fits and other voids. The new barrel actually leached some. You should then degrease it once again after it cools a bit. It didn't hurt anything but the next time I will preheat at high temp and let cool to @100 degrees before painting it. The spray can worked fine, no globs, etc. and I have about 1/3 left for the 28" barrel if I keep it. Pics to follow as soon as the forearm arrives. Both pieces are JohnMasen parts. These are to get me by until I can heft one with a Knoxx stock to see which one I really like before buying.
OK just a peak....
The pic doesn't do it any justice. It is a nice "rough" finish about like it was parked. No runs, no drips, no errors. Going to watch the game now!

[drine]

All done now. The skills I've honed and sharpened on this board made it happen. I had the exact forearm I wanted. Bad thing is it didn't fit. No big deal, I bought the Hogue adapter(although NOT a Hogue forearm) and then had to counter-bore the forearm so the adapter would go all the way in. I got a 1-1/2" end mill at work and chucked it in a vice and hand turned the forearm myself. Took about 10 minutes total!!! Duracoated the adapter when I got home and now the "finished" product. Sorta retro and I'm honestly thinking of the regular shaped Knoxx stock.
BTW, I did clean the inside of the forearm up a little better than the pic shown. There went my winter project..........

[badmojoman]

Looks good Drine! I want to do that to my mossburg 500. I just need an 18 inch barrel and a pistol grip. I would have to pant them to match my gun though because my mossy has an old style military camo paint job.
Craig

[wonderwolf]

looks great, Like I said I was trying duracoat for the first time on one of my current projects soon. It went on easy....we'll see how long it stays on. I'm a pretty die hard Park fan but I'm not afraid of color either :rockon:

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e220/wonderwolf223/DSC01589.jpg

[drine]

Well you can see a little scuff already on the tube. I diidn't blast it though just roughed it up with a scotch-brite pad. The adapter nut WAS blasted at work. I sprayed the He11 out of it too. I should have "abused" it a little to see if it held up better. I'll touch it all up. JUst got the heat shield for it. Not sure if I want it green, leave it black, or leave it off. I can see where it comes in handy. 6 quick shots really heats the barrel.