Who's built an HK51?

[Bulletboy]

I plan on trying to make as close of a clone as I can from a CETME parts kit. I figure on having to modify nearly everything, but I dont really know what it will take. I'm not going to do an SBR, so I'll leave the barrel at 16" and put a fake suppressor over it. Now before anyone goes and thinks I play too much Splinter Cell or some crap like that, realize I'm doing this build just for fun. :) This is my first build of something other than AK's or FAL's, but I decided what the hell.. So.. anyone done one? Anyone want to talk me out of it, offer support, condolences, resources, etc?

[WildBillCody]

Perro, Tried to build one, but was having allot of problems with it, you could probably get his real cheap :)

The locking piece is the problem, and since there were'nt any CETME's built that short, you can't just go buy the right locking piece like you could if it was a H&K.

From what I understand you could make a CETME "K" or G3K much easier, that's what I planned on doing with my G3 parts kit.

[Bulletboy]

Hmm, ok I may have to bag it then on this one and just build it straight. What is the "K"?

[WildBillCody]

The "K" stands for Karbine (in German) basically move the front triple tree back to right in front of the charging handle and add a flash hider, it takes off about 7" I think, Perro has one of these also, Big50 made it, really nice rifle.
They use the HK33/53 forearm, really it needs a different locking piece also but Big50 works the regular G3 parts to function.

[Bulletboy]

I like that! Its a plan then. My parts kit was supposed to come yesterday, so maybe it'll be on my porch today. I'm now on the lookout for a receiver. I went into a shop near work yesterday to see if they could source one for me. They were no help. Any recommendations for one that would be good for this build?

[rustypirate]

Century or PRT 91 inc are the only two places that I know of making HK 91/CETME type receivers right now.

[Bulletboy]

Thx, that sounds good then. I just looked up a local guy from Century dealer locator, and talked to him about it. He's gonna get me pricing info when he gets home.

[Perro]

mine will be for sale cheap compared to what i have in it - mmmm lets call it $600.00 plus shipping
and i can tell you everything you need to do to it to fix it and make it work right, but it will be sold on the caveat that its not safe to shoot in its current condition. It recoils so hard that it cracks wood buttstocks, but i know whats wrong with it, and how to fix it.

if you are serious pm me

[Grasshopper]

A "shop"? Ahhh. You mean an FFL dealer? Who sells what out of your local shop?:ranting: (shop means gun dealer"?)

[Bulletboy]

A "shop"? Ahhh. You mean an FFL dealer? Who sells what out of your local shop?:ranting: (shop means gun dealer"?)

Yup, shop means gun dealer :) The one I was talking about was Wades, its in Bellevue. They FFL'd me my FAL receiver last time. I went in to see them because I thought they might be able to at least be able to check out pricing from Century for me. They couldn't. Anyway, the guy I mentioned that I talked to from the "dealer locator" on their site got back to me with receivers and prices for both G3 and CETME. The pricing is a lot cheaper than I thought it was gonna be, so I'll probably end up getting it in the next couple weeks. The parts kit came this morning. I haven't really unwrapped anything and looked through it yet though. I'll put up a pic or two when I do. Its probably a no brainer, but I'm assuming I definitely need the CETME receiver, as opposed to the G3 receiver?

[Bulletboy]

mine will be for sale cheap compared to what i have in it - mmmm lets call it $600.00 plus shipping
and i can tell you everything you need to do to it to fix it and make it work right, but it will be sold on the caveat that its not safe to shoot in its current condition. It recoils so hard that it cracks wood buttstocks, but i know whats wrong with it, and how to fix it.

if you are serious pm me

I am serious about doing one, but I really want to do the build, as opposed to having a lot of the work already finished for me. It is an offer that I appreciate though, and I know I'm gonna have a ton of really stupid questions.

[Lon Moer]

......... but I'm assuming I definitely need the CETME receiver, as opposed to the G3 receiver?

Both receivers are the same, except for the rear sight base. You need to decide if you're building a CETME or G3.:744:

[hulygan]

Bullet, if you haven't ordered your receiver yet Sam's gun shop in Everett is a Century dealer. I got my Cetme receiver from them for just under 189.00. It took a couple of weeks to come in and they were pretty cool with most of my questions.

[Bulletboy]

Both receivers are the same, except for the rear sight base. You need to decide if you're building a CETME or G3.:744:

Thx, those are the types of clarifications I'm gonna be needing! I would really like it to be a G3, but at the time I was ordering it, I could only find cetme kits so thats what I have. SO, here's what I want to do; Get a G3 receiver, and use my cetme parts kit and attempt to build the "K". any major problems with that, or should it be perfectly doable? Also hulygan, thx for the source, that might be quite useful!

[Big Steve]

mine will be for sale cheap compared to what i have in it - mmmm lets call it $600.00 plus shipping
and i can tell you everything you need to do to it to fix it and make it work right, but it will be sold on the caveat that its not safe to shoot in its current condition. It recoils so hard that it cracks wood buttstocks, but i know whats wrong with it, and how to fix it.

if you are serious pm me

Just curious as to why it recoils that hard Perro? You know how us curious folk's are! Now I am curious to know if I spelled curious right? Spell check didn't change it!
Steve

[kevin]

ive actually got a g3 kit sitting around that has a messed up barrel that i bought with the intention of cutting down to make an hk51 pistol because only the last 4-5 inches is bad from someone butchering the flash hider and forward of the tripple frame

also its nice no 922r parts would have to be used for the pistol:) I just need someone to help me weld it!

[kevin]

a guy named metalman on the cetmerifles.com site made one, too bad we lost all the info. If you could get ahold of him he would give you measurements and instructions. Unfortunately when we lost the site i lost a pm with all that info in it. Now i cant get ahold of him since he hasnt registered here. He didnt live far from me either

[Perro]

Just curious as to why it recoils that hard Perro?

cause the hack that did the work turned the barrel pencil thin

heres a question for you to think about

the 1919 has a huge fat barrel and it needs a booster to cycle the action
the 1917 browning has the exact same operating system, but a pencil thin barrel and doesnt need a booster at all cause the thin barrel makes it recoil harder right??

same thing with mine. The barrel was chopped to 16 inches which should make it recoil less, but it has also been turned down PENCIL thin which is why i think its recoiling so bad

the recoil spring guide rod must be chopped and the spring chopped too which makes it recoil worse

the other thing is that the bolt carrier has been lightened a bunch by removing the tube - see photos below - this being blowback at heart with a delay, the lighter the carrier, the harder it cycles with nothing else changed.

when you cut the barrel down to the correct SBR length, all of this should go away - another way to accomplish it would be to cut the barrel and thread on a fake flash hider with a larger bore with no rifling to make up the rest of the 16 inch length of a legal title 1 firearm, so the pressure is gone out of the barrel at the correct time.

one thing i noticed about my g3k - when it had just the fake 4 pronged flash hider on it for use during the ban it cycled fine without the need for the k locking piece. as soon as the ban expired, i milled those slots into the flash hider to make it a true 4 prong flash hider, and now it needs a k locker cause it doesnt cycle nearly as hard as before i cut the slots in the hider - just cutting those slots made a world of difference, and im pretty sure SBRing the barrel will make the problem go away 100%


to address the need of a different locking piece if the gun wont cycle after you cut it, i have this figured out as well.

The reason you cannot use a bolt carrier from a g3 is because the bolt carrier tube is different lengths between the cetme and g3
well, on a HK51 conversion, almost the entire tube is cut off of the bolt carrier - what does that mean?? That means you could take a g3 bolt carrier and cut the tube off to the same length as what the cetme 51 carrier is at so now the hk g3 carrier will work in a cetme, as will a g3 bolt head, locking piece, etc etc. that means you can buy the correct number locking piece from HK for a HK51 if the cetme bolt set wont cycle once the barrel is cut down.

this is a TOUCHY system - the slightest little thing throws things all off kilter

look at how pencil thin the barrel has been turned down, and you can also see how the carrier tube has been cut, and the recoil spring shortened

[Otis61]

What if you coverd, say, half of the flutes in the chamber?

[omegajim2k]

if your looking for a receiver and want to save a little, check out Colorado Guns on gunbroker. i purchased one from him and it is perfect. brand new, stainless steel cast, ready to build, and it is USA made by CAI so it counts as 1 of the 7-13 parts that is required for the gun to be compliant. Also Red Dog Armory in Seattle- he goes by seattlefungus on auctionarms.com. I also purchased a receiver from him and it is just as nice. If you can find a JLD-91 steel receiver, that is the top of the line receiver available in the USA for this build.


jim

[Bulletboy]

Ok, I took a few minutes today to unwrap my parts kit, so here it is;
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f258/suckaf00/DSCN2342.jpg

I'm no expert so far, but I think its a pretty nice kit. Its definitely in better shape than the majority of the AK kits I've ever got. Here was something kind of interesting; I am assuming that the silverish tube to the right of the magazine is supposed to contain the cleaning kit? Well in mine, it had a handwritten note in Spanish dated 4/88. Its been quite a while since I lived in FL., so my espanol is extremely rusty, and the handwriting is sort of hard to read. It appears to be an apology to someone. I'd post what it says, but like I said, the handwriting sort of keeps me from being able to do that. Maybe I'll scan it or something if I get a chance. Anyway, I got this kit from DPH in case anyone likes it and wants one (or another one). So what do you think?

[SSwee]

I got a cleaning tube with a note written in Spanish also. I'll try to find it and we can compare the messages.
SS

[Bulletboy]

I got a cleaning tube with a note written in Spanish also. I'll try to find it and we can compare the messages.
SS

It probably says "Hey gringo, sorry about the cleaning kit!" :lol3:

[Bulletboy]

Been a while since I posted this thread. I mentioned the other day that I had just ordered my receiver. I got it from Vector, I'm expecting it to come in hopefully this week. After reading some more threads and all, I'm having second thoughts about shortening it up any. Seems like it might be enough of a pain in the ass just getting all the parts and modifying whatever necessary to make the G3 clone. Right now I'm more concerned with practicing my welding so I don't destroy my 200 something dollar receiver. I'm not so good yet at not burning through sheet metal that thin. I plan on removing the stub from the trunion tonight if I can get around to it. Once thats done, I would assume I should press in the new barrel next? (because there was no old barrel as per pic of my kit above)

[texlurch]

I picked up a HK51 forearm from HKParts; it is longer than the MP5 forearm so you don't have to cut the cocking tube back so far.

Gearing up to press out the barrel, shorten to 16 inch, and put it all back together. Pics when I get to a point they are worth taking.... :)

[Planning]

I picked up a HK51 forearm from HKParts; it is longer than the MP5 forearm so you don't have to cut the cocking tube back so far.

Gearing up to press out the barrel, shorten to 16 inch, and put it all back together. Pics when I get to a point they are worth taking.... :)

how long is the hk51 forearm? the slim forearm on it now is about 11" long.

i think i can cut the cocking tube back about 2-1/2" and move the triple site frame back that much. is that enough?

this is the cetme i plan on using. the barrel is already 16" now and i can use the reverse flashhider on it ( it is like the one i gave you). the flash hider will move in 1" more when the triple frame is moved, so it will look even shorter and still be within the law.

just a note: this is a century built rifle and there were a few built with the 16" barrels. they are hard to sell because the barrels were not threaded. i have picked them up very cheap at times. so look around and maybe you can find one at a good bargin. these would be very good donor rifles for someone that does not want to build one from a kit. ( like me).



what do you think?

[texlurch]

Yup, same thing. I threaded mine for the stock FH a while back, and will probably end up using a fake suppressor to cover the barrel.

51 forearm is 7-1/2" long.

I cut the cocking tube right at the end where the stop is welded. Cut the front of the bolt carrier right where is steps up. Cut the sleeve on the cocking lever in half. All this to gain "just" enough room to hopefully keep everything running. Don't have to shorten the recoil rod or spring, and have to extend the cocking slot about 1-1/4".

I'll be adding a filler piece to the end of the receiver to hold the forearm in the correct spot. About 1-1/4" long...

Here are a couple teaser pics... :icon_biggrin: (the barrel is just stuck into the front of the receiver, needs to be pressed, so it will sit about 2" farther back)

[Bulletboy]

That looks good! Makes me sway back toward doing that again.. Damn it, I wish I could make my mind..


Yup, same thing. I threaded mine for the stock FH a while back, and will probably end up using a fake suppressor to cover the barrel.

51 forearm is 7-1/2" long.

I cut the cocking tube right at the end where the stop is welded. Cut the front of the bolt carrier right where is steps up. Cut the sleeve on the cocking lever in half. All this to gain "just" enough room to hopefully keep everything running. Don't have to shorten the recoil rod or spring, and have to extend the cocking slot about 1-1/4".

I'll be adding a filler piece to the end of the receiver to hold the forearm in the correct spot. About 1-1/4" long...

Here are a couple teaser pics... :icon_biggrin: (the barrel is just stuck into the front of the receiver, needs to be pressed, so it will sit about 2" farther back)

[Templar]

That looks good! Makes me sway back toward doing that again.. Damn it, I wish I could make my mind..


Looks like you're going to have to buy another kit and receiver, doesn't it...............:icon_biggrin:

[Bulletboy]

How long have you known about your ESP abilities? :icon_biggrin:


Looks like you're going to have to buy another kit and receiver, doesn't it...............:icon_biggrin:

[texlurch]

Now to decide if I want to cut the barrel and use an extended FH.. not sure if I like it since the barrel will still be sticking out past the triple frame a bit..

hmmmmm

[Planning]

here is what i am going to do. the handguard is for a fal, it is very heavy made. i had to do some shaping and cutting but not much. lots of material to work with. i am going to shorten the handguard to 9" and move the triple frame back about 2" and cut the tube the same amount. or i may just leave it like it is. i kind of like the looks and the balance is very nice.

[texlurch]

Well, I've determined that shortening the cocking sleeve allows it to "cock" in the tube and bind up.

But

Wonder of wonders, I installed a standard one, and it works fine. Goes back far enough in the standard slot to cock the gun and pick up a shell from the mag, even though the bolt carrier is cut back 1.5". The recoil spring retainer does come out the front of the carrier, but I beveled the inside and it drops from the "slap" position fine.

More to come......

[Planning]

keep the ideas ( solutions) coming. :thumbup:

every time you post it gives me another idea to try. thanks texlurch :rockon:

anyone else? come on bulletboy, kevin917z, others....let's hear it from you on this...:icon_biggrin:

[texlurch]

Ok, here is the more or less final version; have to get my bottle refilled to finish welding.

Have a fake can on the way to cover the barrel; frees up my IGF FH for the next build.

I'll have to trim down a G3 bayo plug, since there isn't much room left in the triple frame, no biggie.

Also have a new barrel pin and G3 rear sight on the way from RTG. Barrel is sitting at .020 gap right now with new LP, 1.835 bolt, and std rollers. Was at .006 with +4 and new LP.

Headed back out for two weeks, so when I get home I'll weld it up and take it to the range.

*edit*

One thing to note if you move the triple this far back. The "step" on the barrel for the triple frame is way far forward, so if you aren't running a fake can I would turn it down on a lathe.

Also, the triple fits just a little loose on the barrel. Still seemed to solder back on fine, but I copied the monkeys and put a small spot weld on the bottom/rear so it can't move.

[texlurch]

Tack welded the end of the cocking tube back on, using a piece of .023 mig wire to set the cocking tube gap (bolt gap is .020).

Boy, does this thing cock easy. Even with the front of the carrier cut down, it cocks fine, picks up the shells, and ejects.

Here is a photoshop of what it will look like with the MFI fake can I ordered yesterday...

Can't wait to get it finished and try it out in a couple weeks. :rockon: :2pistol:

[Planning]

dang it. now to rethink my plan...........:airtight::rolleyes:

[Bulletboy]

I like that. I'd like to try building up one of those as well. I think it's what I had in mind at the beginning. Only difference I would make is just because I like the standard stock over the collapsible, but its just my preference. Nice job on that so far :thumbup:


Tack welded the end of the cocking tube back on, using a piece of .023 mig wire to set the cocking tube gap (bolt gap is .020).

Boy, does this thing cock easy. Even with the front of the carrier cut down, it cocks fine, picks up the shells, and ejects.

Here is a photoshop of what it will look like with the MFI fake can I ordered yesterday...

Can't wait to get it finished and try it out in a couple weeks. :rockon: :2pistol:

[texlurch]

I saw that POF had some stocks and cocking handles listed, and they say everything they have is made in the USA, sooo

Just another option..

[texlurch]

Wife just emailed; parts from RTG arrived (G3 rear sight, barrel pin and sling pin), as well as the fake can....

[rifleman]

that is sweet where did you get it from?

[texlurch]

http://www.mfiap.com/airsoft/acce/silencer.htm

[dahondaboy]

I was searching their site and i like these drilled version better, and it says they have adapters for hk g3's too http://www.mfiap.com/smallarms/M4-Fake.htm

[texlurch]

Yeah, I just didn't care for the M4 style. Call it personal preference.

I got the theaded adapter 15-1 for mine as well. Same mounting for either style can.

The adapter threads on the end of the barrel, and the can has multiple set screws to keep it tight and aligned.

[texlurch]

Got all the welding done, barrel pin and triple frame on, and hit it with a quick coat of paint.

BG at .020, cocks and picks up the rounds fine, even with the shortened bolt carrier.

Range trip in a day or so...

[texlurch]

Here she is, all done. Ran 100 rds thru today, and gap is steady at .020. Cocks and shoots great! The little bit I took off the bolt carrier didn't affect it one bit. Recoil is about like my G3, in other words a nice smooth push. Throws the empties 15-20 feet or so... :icon_biggrin:

With the cheapo Aimpoint clone at 50 yds, a dime is not safe. Very accurate and consistent.

I am waiting for a rear sight base for my G3 style sight and then it will be complete.

I like this one a lot.

[Planning]

dang!!!!!! that is very nice.:thumbup: good build. :airtight:

[Bulletboy]

Yes! That is frigging fantastic! In fact, that is exactly what I want to do with mine (but with standard stock). I also found my ptr91 trigger housing at my front door today.

[texlurch]

Glad you guys like it; I think it is pretty cool myself..

I'll break it down and take some close ups and measurements in a day or two so you know what you are getting in for.

You have to be able to weld and cut straight, that's about it.

[Planning]

i guess i need to get back to work on mine, but the weather has been so nice out side. if it rains i will work on it. i will be waiting on the pictures. not sure what way to go at this time with my conversion. i like mine, but i think i may like yours better. decisions decisions.........:rolleyes:

[Planning]

ok! i need help! i have been trying to move the front site back about 3/4", no luck yet. i even tried to use the 20 ton press, nothing is moving. any suggestions. i removed the cross pin already. is there anything else i need to remove to get it to move? pictures would help. thanks

[texlurch]

ok! i need help! i have been trying to move the front site back about 3/4", no luck yet. i even tried to use the 20 ton press, nothing is moving. any suggestions. i removed the cross pin already. is there anything else i need to remove to get it to move? pictures would help. thanks

It is soldered on, and may have a CAI spot weld on the bottom/rear. You have to heat it up and melt the solder out before it will move.

[texlurch]

OK, here are my cobbled up parts..

Added a 1" extension on the receiver, so the handguard wouldn't sit so far back. The HK51 style sits all the way back to the magwell.

Notice how much the 51 overlaps the receiver, compared to the MP5?

Cocking tube slot is 6", from rear of slot to stop at the front.

Bolt carrier is cut back to the "nub", and has a 45 degree bevel on the inside, since the front of the recoil assembly sticks out during recoil, and was hanging a bit.

Also a couple pics compared to an uncut CETME.

[Planning]

It is soldered on, and may have a CAI spot weld on the bottom/rear. You have to heat it up and melt the solder out before it will move.

it had a tiny weld on the bottom, looked like a drop of paint. thanks
i filed it off and then just pressed it off the barrel. it was really stuck on there. i cleaned up the barrel and inside the site. cut the cocking tube back 3/4" and reshaped it and did some filing on it.( no welding) got the site moved back 3/4" and it looks better to me. i had to do some fitting again on the fal handguard, but i got it to fit tight again.

i am working on the reverse flash hider, i am thinking of rethreading the flashider to the cetme thread and just thread the barrel correctly (cetme threads).
it has taken me most of the day to do this, trying to fit everything close.

i will work on it tomorrow, maybe. i was going to ride the harley today, but after looking at yours i just couldn't leave it alone.

pictures to follow when i finish it.

i am going to add the #4 rollers to it, i put a new bolt and carrier in it and the gap went down a little. it is still easy to cock, but just in case.........

i am going to order me 10 set of #4 roller from rtg just to put back for later.

[turbothis]

you got a good shop ron? lathe?

[Planning]

you got a good shop ron? lathe?

i am using my old gun shop to work in for now. i need to run power to my work shop.

no lathe. ( yet :icon_biggrin:) right now it's dremel, hand files, sandpaper, etc.

ps:
got the tubing just now. looks good.:thumbup: you guys are going to be sorry you didn't buy some.

[turbothis]

i was afraid you where not going to like it!!!! it is almost perfect on the inside and thats what counts in my book. glad you like it.:rockon:

[Planning]

well i worked on it some more and then took it out to the range yesterday. worked ok, ( i am still going to put the larger rollers in it).the more i shoot it the smoother it gets. i really like the hand guards. they are perfect in size. easy to grip. the balance on this rifle is perfect.

i am not sure what type of sling to put on it yet. still looking around and i want to mount a scope on it, still not sure on which one either. i am not in a hurry on either one of them. i will go back and read some of the reports on this site about what some of you guys have used.

SSwee is making me a special flash hider.

i am also waiting my turn on the threading device to finish the front threads.

i have several of these rifles and this is the first one i ever have fired. all the rest are in the safe and only come out to be cleaned ( most have never been cleaned and still full of grease, crud, etc.) or take a picture of them. someday i will get around to cleaning them.

i have an extra g-3 that i am thinking about doing like the one texlurch has built. i sure like his.

i know now that this is a lot more fun than buying one already done and just putting it in the safe. wish i had done this more a few years earlier. i had done some ar's and fal's years ago, but that was just putting ready made parts together.

[texlurch]

That came out pretty slick Planning! How much did you move the triple frame back?

The G3 rear site can be had from RTG for around $65, if you want to go that way, and the cheapo low mount Airsoft rail works most excellent with a red dot. My -51 clone is deadly now with the Aimpoint clone on it... :)

Next time I am in town we need to get together and go to the range.

Let's see.. I need to bring the G3, -51, AR47.. anything else? 308 Saiga maybe?

[Planning]

That came out pretty slick Planning! How much did you move the triple frame back?

The G3 rear site can be had from RTG for around $65, if you want to go that way, and the cheapo low mount Airsoft rail works most excellent with a red dot. My -51 clone is deadly now with the Aimpoint clone on it... :)

Next time I am in town we need to get together and go to the range.

Let's see.. I need to bring the G3, -51, AR47.. anything else? 308 Saiga maybe?

bring your new psl.

i have a century g3, i thought it had a ground bolt, but it is not. (1st time to take it apart, full of grease and stuff) that i am going to use for the build. i have had it for a long time. it is a 2 digit serial #, but is a good canidate for the conversion. barrel is ok, needs to be cut down and recrowned, but not new. it has the slant front site. i had 2 rifles apart ( g3 and cetme) and somehow swapped the trigger housings around on them. that is a cetme on it in the picture. swapped them back. i guess i need to order a handguard for it next week.

[texlurch]

I am getting TT to fab me a shorter cocking handle, to hook on the triple frame and not stick forward so much... if it works out I'll post pics for those considering this build....

And if you need any help with the welding LMK.

[Planning]

i was asked to post my modifications on the rifle.
it is much slower, but i used a file, hack saw and sand paper, go slow and only remove what is needed.
disassemble the rifle all you need now is the barreled receiver.

1. i used a handguard that was made for a fal. it is made by tapco and comes in several colors. i forgot i had them, found them in a box. i think they still sell them. i don't remember the cost on them. i don't have any for sale.

2. first remove the triple frame from rifle. you will need to remove the sling ring by drilling out the one side and driving out the pin. or do like i did and just twist it off and drive out the pin, it is not going to be reused anyway.

3. the triple frame may be welded on the back under side. ( mine was and it was hard to see) grind off the weld.

4. i pressed my triple frame off the barrel with a 20 ton press.

5. clean up all the trash that was under the triple frame. and i took some sand paper and gently smoothed off the barrel. ( to get the triple frame to slide back on easier)

6. i cut 3/4" off the end of the cocking tube. try to cut it straight. use a file to smooth the edges.

7. grind back some of the ridges on the cocking tube, about 3/4" back. do not grind it all the way thru the tube.

8. grind the end of the handguard to fit into the slot in the trunion. go slow and don't take off to much.

9. slip on the handguard.

10. slide the triple frame back on the barrel, i use a press and pressed it back. this will reshape the cocking tube. go to where it is close to the handguard ( about 1/8" clearance). make sure the triple frame is on straight.

11. mark with a pen or marker where the pin goes thru to lock the triple frame on the barrel.

10 remove the triple frame again. slot it where the pin will go.( i used a small round file) do not file to much.

11. re-install the triple frame. pin the triple frame to the barrel. ( i used a drill bit for a pin.)

12. there will need to be some fitting done around where the ring on the tripe frame is. i ground down some of the ring and some inside of the handguard. do this untill it fits good and the bolt will go thru and tighten up.
( you want a snug fit.)

13. on the cocking tube some of the plastic on the handguard will have to be removed, go slow and only take off enough for the cocking handle will slide easy.

14. i used the B-B-Q hi temp paint from walmart to touch it up untill i have it refinished later.

15. take a picture of it and post your work. good luck.

my barrel didn't have a muzzle brake and i am going to thread it and i am having SSwee to make me a reverse flash hider.

if i am not clear ask a question and i will try to answer it. ( make it more clear)

[texlurch]

Couple notes on that..

The triple is soldered, and can be removed without a press by heating up until the solder melts and lets go. You can get solder paste from Brownells to reattach.

I reused my sling eye, and milled/drilled the slot on the barrel after resoldering the triple back on. If you carefully drill/dremel the end of the sling eye, then pull/wiggle it out, there should be enough left to peen back over. I also put a spot weld on it to be sure.

[rpmfly2]

Did you both shorten the bolt carriers the same way to the ride in the front of the tube? Or, Planning, is yours stock length?

[Planning]

Did you both shorten the bolt carriers the same way to the ride in the front of the tube? Or, Planning, is yours stock length?

i did not modify the bolt on mine. it is stock length.

[rpmfly2]

Can you measure from the trunion chamber side to get the full length of your barrel? I was also wondering about yours also Tex! By the way! It's funny that in 1985 I moved to Iowa from Houston, Texas. I REALLY MISS Texas and my FA dealers license! I gave up a lot to move HERE!:rolleyes: I actually have the forearms here that you both used in black!

[texlurch]

Mine had a cut barrel from CAI; it measures 16.5 from the chamber. Stock I believe they are 18".

My forearm is NOT an MP5; it is an HK-51.

[rpmfly2]

Mines a 51 also! I'll have to get the barrel thread device (kit) as soon as I am ready. Thanks again!

[texlurch]

Mines a 51 also! I'll have to get the barrel thread device (kit) as soon as I am ready. Thanks again!

If you are going the fake can route, they make one for non-threaded barrels.

I actually thought about cutting my barrel down and welding on an extended FH, but I didn't like the looks. Thats like 6-7" of barrel sticking out of the triple on mine.

[Planning]

Can you measure from the trunion chamber side to get the full length of your barrel? I was also wondering about yours also Tex! By the way! It's funny that in 1985 I moved to Iowa from Houston, Texas. I REALLY MISS Texas and my FA dealers license! I gave up a lot to move HERE!:rolleyes: I actually have the forearms here that you both used in black!

mine came this way from cai (16.5")

yep, been away from texas a few time and always glad to be back home.

[vpost]

My question is will a CETME work with a 16" barrel? mine is 17" and I was thinking of cutting it down to 16" but decided to use for the lack of a better word spacer(see attached pics) and a 4 prong FH. After looking at it for a while it looked too bubbafied.

[Planning]

My question is will a CETME work with a 16" barrel? mine is 17" and I was thinking of cutting it down to 16" but decided to use for the lack of a better word spacer(see attached pics) and a 4 prong FH. After looking at it for a while it looked too bubbafied.

it would work just fine.

i should have mine from SSwee in a few weeks, maybe you would want to wait and see how it turns out.

i don't think i would cut the barrel, 16.5" is as short as i would go anyway.

[vpost]

Planning, that is exactly what I was thinking.

[Planning]

i have the old style hk triple frame and i like the looks of it. will it fit on a cetme barrel with out any modifications?

i just checked the RTG site and what hk parts would fit the cetme. it will fit. so my next new project is to change out the triple frame.

[Planning]

got up this morning and changed out the cetme triple frame to the old style hk triple frame. i like the look better.
i am glad i had not welded the cetme triple frame in place yet.

the good part is the old style does not have a ring under the handguard, so less fitting of the new handguard.



i will try to get a picture of it later.

[turbothis]

kool

[Planning]

new picture of latest modification

[texlurch]

Looking good. Now get the G3 rear sight and we'll swap that out as well. And then no one will know it was ever a CETME... :)

[Planning]

well, i put the cetme triple frame back on the first cetme conversion rifle. i forgot about the site adjustments and i had fitted the hand guard to it.

i started on my g3 conversion, pretty much the same as the cetme. i shortened the barrel to 16-1/2", moved the triple frame back about 1-1/2", cut the cocking tube back about 1", modified the fal handguard. then i threaded the barrel. well guess what the barrel is an early tapered barrel. the barrel is smaller about 1/8" in diameter than the cetme barrel. i played with several muzzle brakes and have descided to get my good friend steve sweeney to make me another one. i am going to do this one a little different.
(when i grabbed the g3 i grabbed the wrong one, this was an early 2 diget serial # rifle and was built on a early hk parts kit.)oh well!!!:rolleyes:

( note here: we have several guys that do great work on this site. most do it to support there hobby so i use them when i can. remember they can't do this work for free, so be fair with them i have found them to be very fair with me.)

here are some pictures, i had to borrow the stock from the cetme for temp. i will have to order a stock. i think some one may have a stock for sale, i will check to see if he still has it for sale.

[turbothis]

you got a link to those handgaurds.....

[Planning]

you got a link to those handgaurds.....

i got them from tapco, they are made for the fal. they help me on my compliance parts count.

i don't have a link for them. i got them several years ago and i am trying to use up some of this stuff.

[Bulletboy]

That is NICE! :thumbup:


well, i put the cetme triple frame back on the first cetme conversion rifle. i forgot about the site adjustments and i had fitted the hand guard to it.

i started on my g3 conversion, pretty much the same as the cetme. i shortened the barrel to 16-1/2", moved the triple frame back about 1-1/2", cut the cocking tube back about 1", modified the fal handguard. then i threaded the barrel. well guess what the barrel is an early tapered barrel. the barrel is smaller about 1/8" in diameter than the cetme barrel. i played with several muzzle brakes and have descided to get my good friend steve sweeney to make me another one. i am going to do this one a little different.
(when i grabbed the g3 i grabbed the wrong one, this was an early 2 diget serial # rifle and was built on a early hk parts kit.)oh well!!!:rolleyes:

( note here: we have several guys that do great work on this site. most do it to support there hobby so i use them when i can. remember they can't do this work for free, so be fair with them i have found them to be very fair with me.)

here are some pictures, i had to borrow the stock from the cetme for temp. i will have to order a stock. i think some one may have a stock for sale, i will check to see if he still has it for sale.