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View Full Version : Best Bake on finish?



WildBillCody
11-18-2009, 08:43 PM
Been trying to get through to Brownells to ask the "experts" but which bake on finish do you guys prefer and why?

drine
11-18-2009, 09:08 PM
I just did the Gunkote. I didn't want to buy a sprayer just yet so I opted for the can. I'll not recommend it though. It scratches off pretty easy. I followed the directions to the "T". I'm hearing the Ceramacoat is the real deal.

k98k792
11-18-2009, 09:15 PM
I didn't like the Baking lacquer not very tough,but matches Polish and Bulgarian paint very well. Alumahide2 was very tough but takes forever to dry,the semigloss is really gloss. Duplicolor header paint is tough as nails,and very cheap,the color is not always pure black. Duracoat is my new favorite,goes on easy,and after the final cure,hard to chip.

Norton
12-14-2009, 06:24 PM
On the same topic
I want to change the color of my Hungarian PA 63 frame for SS to Blue/Black. I never liked the two tone look and I am thinking about making wooden grips to give it a more vintage look, so a blue black lower would be a must. On a SS frame what would be the best cover Guncoat or the ceramacoat ? I want it look a close to bluing as possible. Or is there some other possibiltiy that I have overlooked short of Hot bluing via the shop?

sdk1968
12-15-2009, 05:44 AM
ALUMA HYDE! if you got time is hard to beat for the price.

DURACOAT or DURABAKE are middle of the road and PRICE

GUNKOTE in the bake version is super goods stuff if you get the application right and the can doesnt give you the best instructions.... but man its expensive!!

gatorglockman
03-11-2010, 07:28 PM
I just did a C93 and some mags with Wheeler Ceramicote at Midway. It was easy and I was pleased with the end result. Did some homework on the different spray can type bake on's and went with it based on a lot of solid feedback.

I converted an old Brinkman's smoker with a therometer and gas heat below to do the bake outside.

1. The fumes on this and all of these products are intense!! Be warned and wear protection. I failed to my first run and paid for it the whole night.
2. Baking it in your oven may warrant your divorce or no "favors" for a while....just warning ya.

Go slow, light coats and multiple coats. Follow the directions to the T. Initial prep is the key so get a good degreasing product and some rubbing alcohol and latex gloves.

Good luck friend.

BIG_GUNNUT
03-11-2010, 07:49 PM
Norrell's Moly Resin. The stuff is tough.:icon_biggrin:

k98k792
03-11-2010, 08:04 PM
Big Gunnut if I remember correctly, the molyresin also adds lubricity. So you can use it on internals also?

Cavalryman
03-11-2010, 10:58 PM
Moly Resin is good stuff, but somewhat complicated to use as you have to pre-heat the parts and spray them before they cool.

AlumaHyde and Duracoat are both easy to use, but I prefer Duracoat because when properly applied, it will tend to conceal small scratches that occur later. Also, DuraCoat never flakes, so far as I can tell.

BIG_GUNNUT
03-12-2010, 07:54 AM
Big Gunnut if I remember correctly, the molyresin also adds lubricity. So you can use it on internals also?

Yes, you can use it on the internals. :icon_biggrin:

Schultz
03-12-2010, 08:16 AM
Duplicolor header paint is tough as nails,and very cheap

I did an AK in this and was quite impressed, Did stink up the house tho. I'm getting ready to finish another build and am going to try the VHT brand of header paint (the Advance AP doesn't carry the Duplicolor anymore) and see if it has the same results.

On a side note i did a build in duracoat followed directions to a T and it turned out horrible. I even contacted them about it to which all i got from them was if you followed the directions it should have worked for ya sorry. Needless to say i don't recommend them to anyone.

k98k792
03-12-2010, 11:53 AM
Vair65,a member here, did several of his Ak builds with the VHT paint. They came out great! Gave a very true black color,and seemed to hold up well.

With the dupli color final coats I would hold the can about 15 inches from the rifle. It would give the end product a more matte finish that matched up nicely with Romy black oxide,and dark park. Did a lot of my beat up M1 carbine,and FAL mags this way.

Schultz
03-12-2010, 12:37 PM
What did you bake them at? The one i did with the duplicolor was @250 for 30 mins and the finish turned out extremly tough and has held up great.

M1 Tanker
03-12-2010, 01:47 PM
KG Gun kote if you have an air compressor. I picked up some cheap airbrushes ($9.99 a piece) at harbor freight. Its easy to paint with a and I didn't have to mix anything. Shoot it, bake it, hard as nails. I have used Brownells Alumahyde and Brownells bake on (which sucked) and there is no comparsion.

k98k792
03-12-2010, 04:47 PM
What did you bake them at? The one i did with the duplicolor was @250 for 30 mins and the finish turned out extremly tough and has held up great.

About the same. Now when I do mags I just hit them with a heat gun for about 10 minutes. Seems to be holding up well.


Tanker, I've always held off on the harbour frieght airbrushes,thinking they might be more trouble then they are worth. But if you say they work well, I think I will pick up a couple.

M1 Tanker
03-12-2010, 05:49 PM
K, I have used mine about 4 times without issue. I bought three of them at the time, but haven't needed the 2 backups yet.

franks71vw
03-28-2010, 08:57 PM
Would it be better to park your receiver and then spray this stuff on...

Anthropy
03-28-2010, 10:50 PM
Parkerizing gives any paint a rough surface to gain a hold of, but I have sprayed over regular surfaces before as well. A buddy of mine swears by Cerama Coat that he bought from Sportsmans Guide. Not to be confused with the finish similar in spelling like the stuff Brownells carries.

For baking small items, I have seen it mentioned that some have used toaster ovens for finishes that require higher temperatures. I previously posted about using a portable space heater and a thermometer to position the heater at the correct distance / heat.

I have used Alumahyde II a bunch and after I degrease, I use a propane / Mapp gas torch and waft the flame over the surface to pre-heat the metal before spraying. Of course this does not work for plastic items, but one could use a hair dryer to pre-heat.

junkmanted
03-29-2010, 05:10 AM
On a side note i did a build in duracoat followed directions to a T and it turned out horrible. I even contacted them about it to which all i got from them was if you followed the directions it should have worked for ya sorry. Needless to say i don't recommend them to anyone.[/QUOTE]

The same thing happened to me it peeled off in a couple spots then I removed it with paint remover they said Impossible then told me I degreased it to many times I also followed there instuctions and used there degreaser I did de grease it 2 or 3 times.
I did a AK and 2 pistols at the same time it only worked on 1 pistol

sdk1968
03-29-2010, 05:49 AM
ive done tons of bake on finishes and have used everything ive heard of.....

its all about the prep work you put into it. ive got good results with everything listed in this thread, and i shoot all of my guns.

you guys have listed a new one to me that id like to try: whats this VHT and where do i get some?

s

k98k792
03-29-2010, 08:23 AM
ive done tons of bake on finishes and have used everything ive heard of.....

its all about the prep work you put into it. ive got good results with everything listed in this thread, and i shoot all of my guns.

you guys have listed a new one to me that id like to try: whats this VHT and where do i get some?

s

It's header and engine paint. Should be available at your local Auto Parts store.

sdk1968
03-29-2010, 10:02 AM
LOL so im taking it that VHT just stands for "Very High Temperature" ??

should have guessed. sigh.


its basically header paint?