swapping m16 buttstock-help an idjit :D

[Phirebug]

i looked through the tutorial, and i looked at my buddy's m4, and i think i get the jist of how to swap out an m4 buttstock, but i look at my m16 stock and i'm confused as hell. i haven't got a clue where to begin. i'm looking to put an ace skeleton stock on it. could somebody help me figure this one out? also, it looks like the ace stock uses the existing buffer tube, but can anybody confirm that it will work with the m16's longer buffer?

thanks!

james

[jlpskydive]

If it's just a basic stock, just remove the screw in the top of the butt plate and it should just slide right off. The buffer should be fine.

[Phirebug]

sorry....i'm a tanker...i've been hitting the screw with a hammer for fifteen minutes and it won't come off!

j/k...didn't realize it was that simple. thanks!

[jlpskydive]

sorry....i'm a tanker...i've been hitting the screw with a hammer for fifteen minutes and it won't come off!

j/k...didn't realize it was that simple. thanks!

That's OK just remember call the Engineers when you need help. :icon_cool:

[jfowl31]

Is that screw supposed to "monkey" tight?

I cant get mine out, I think Im gonna have to move to some bigger tools...

any tricks of the trade? And will an E2 buttstock just slide right in place of the A2?

[mistersquiggles]

not sure of the exact name of the tool, i always called it an impact tool...... bottom line is itll look like a large chisel with a receptacle for different bits...... grab it by the base, and turn the collar clockwise and itll then turn counterclockwise when you hit the rear with a hammer, and vice versa for turning the colar ccw...... get the appropriate bit for it, (philips/slot/torx) fit it into the slot, after making sure youve got the stock secured tightly in a soft jaw vise, and give it a smack.... should loosen it up so that you can do the rest of the job by hand....... hope that helps......

[k98k792]

Is that screw supposed to "monkey" tight?

I cant get mine out, I think Im gonna have to move to some bigger tools...

any tricks of the trade? And will an E2 buttstock just slide right in place of the A2?


Yep.
Try some penetrating oil on it,let it set overnight.

[Simon]

not sure of the exact name of the tool, i always called it an impact tool...... bottom line is itll look like a large chisel with a receptacle for different bits...... grab it by the base, and turn the collar clockwise and itll then turn counterclockwise when you hit the rear with a hammer, and vice versa for turning the colar ccw...... get the appropriate bit for it, (philips/slot/torx) fit it into the slot, after making sure youve got the stock secured tightly in a soft jaw vise, and give it a smack.... should loosen it up so that you can do the rest of the job by hand....... hope that helps......
You mean this?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=37530

I've got one and let me tell you it was one of the best $5 I spent. It worked wonders on some stuck Mosin and 1903 trigger guard screws. Only problem is you need a heavy hammer to get it to work.

[jfowl31]

how does that impact screwdriver work? does it turn the bit when you smack it? or do you put tension on it and then the smack jars it loose or what?

It sounds like a decent investment nonetheless... I got a Harbor Freight less that 5 minutes away from me.

[Simon]

You know how a lot of rifle bolts have camming surfaces that cause them to turn at a certain point in the receiver? It's a similar concept. There are a couple of camming surfaces inside the impact screwdriver, along with a spring. When you smack it with a hammer those camming surfaces push each other and the screwdriver bit turns. Since you're hitting it with a hammer you get a downward force pushing the screwdriver bit into the screw fairly hard. The end result is you are pushing down and turning hard at the same time, but unlike doing it with a regular screwdriver it shouldn't strip the screw, even when it is stuck pretty good.

Basically you stick it in the slot like a normal screwdriver, hold everything steady (you'll want another person if possible), and whack it like a chisel with a heavy hammer. Don't go to town on it, kind of ease into it so you don't hit it too hard. Anyways, once it has turned the screw a bit you should be able to remove it like normal. Also make sure to hold the object so that nothing on the other end will get damaged.

And one last thing, I think the harbor freight impact screwdriver has both a tighten and loosen setting (I guess so it can loosen left or right hand threads). Make sure you aren't on the tighten setting when you use it.

[SSwee]

It's an impact driver to mechanics. Anyone that works on motorcycles should have one. You install the right bit for the fastener you are working with. Engage the bit into the fastener and rotate the impact driver in the direction you want to go. It tightens as well as loosens if not turned CCW on a RH thread. Hold firmly and strike with a BFH. It normally prevents stripping the head of the fastener. On occasion it will spin the head off of the fastener leaving the body of the fastener in place. Doesn't happen often but is a possibility.
SS

[jfowl31]

I see... so should I use the tool to tighten the screw back on once I change the stock? Does the screw really NEED to be MONKEY TIGHT? or is it just that way from the factory/assembler?

[SSwee]

I don't see the need to use an impact driver to reassemble. Disassembly is more difficult due to rust and dirt over the years making it stuck together. Perro or M1 would know the right way for sure though.
SS

[jfowl31]

There's no rust or dirt or anything... it's a brand new, new production buttstock/ lower

[nalioth]

I see... so should I use the tool to tighten the screw back on once I change the stock? Does the screw really NEED to be MONKEY TIGHT? or is it just that way from the factory/assembler? Nah, just tighten it up with your regular hand tools.

Like was said, a 100 years of dirt and abuse'll cause a screw to stick . . .

[SSwee]

Maybe use blue Loc-Tite if there is concern about it comming loose from vibration. Do not use the red Loc-Tite as it usually requires heat to break it down for disassembly.
SS

[Phirebug]

so it turns out that hitting the screw with a hammer WAS a step in the right direction. go tankers!

perhaps the screw is so tight from the factory to keep your buttstock from coming loose when you smack people in the head with it?

[Anthropy]

The buffer tube is aluminum and the steel (top buttstock) screw is secured with locktite. The buffer tube itself might be locktited into the lower as well, so you might need a little heat and or penetrating oil to get it off.

When you pull off the buttstock, at the point it mates to the receiver, there is a little spring and detent (this is the one that retains in the rear push pin). When you pull off the stock, look for the spring and retain it to the side.

The buffer tube holds in the little plunger / spring that retains in the buffer / buffer spring, so when you go to unscrew the buffer watch for the plunger to not go flying.

Don't know about mag pull, but the standard carbine stock's buffer tube is retained with a locking ring and you need the carbine stock tool to tighten it (you could possibly use padded channel locks, not me).

If your gun does not run well once you put the new carbine buffer in, you may have to play with the buffer tube weights to make it run right. I had a carbine I tried putting a A2 stock on (during the ban) and it hated the A2 buffer.

[scubafrog]

I just used a largr screwdriver with an adjustable wrench on the shaft to get enough torque to break the screw lose from the loctight that they use during assembly. I put a Ace skeleton stock on mine. just remember that you dont use the plastic shim from the A2 stock on an ACE stock or on an A1 stock as it will make the tube assembly too long for the stock. Use blue locktight when reassembling. And just torque as tight as you can by hand with the screwdriver. Overtorquing the screw will strip the threads out of the aluminum tube ( dont ask how I know).

[Phirebug]

Success!!! One of the mechanic's owed me a favor so i used some of his penetrating fluid, extra-big-ass screwdriver, and mechanic gorilla grip and it came right off. the new ace stock is awesome, btw. The cheek weld is so much more comfortable.

[jfowl31]

pics.............................................. .......................

[texlurch]

Success!!! The new ace stock is awesome, btw. The cheek weld is so much more comfortable.

Which one did you get, the ARFX? I like that one, the foam is comfy.... :2pistol:

[Phirebug]

sorry for no pics, i don't have a digital camera here. yeah, i got the ARFX. The foam is super comfy, plus with 4 sling attachment points, I can run a shooting sling to help with stability on longer shots, and a wolf's hook sling so i can carry it at the low ready. it looks ridiculous like that, but it works well.