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glennwih
01-04-2010, 06:32 PM
FACTS:
USA brand Claw mount is 98% tight. I added some electrical tape and made it 100% solid; or so I thought. It creeped after 40 rounds about an inch forward. Couldn't keep a zero. I have ARMS rings. BEC 3x9 Illuminated reticle scope and the rifle is a Century CAI Sporter with the little hole on top. Stainless receiver I think.
Question:
Exactly which model number and brand of scope mount is the best whereby it has a screw for the hole on top near the rear site? I hear Tapco's MNT3060 is out of stock and I called 7 stores, no luck.
Thanks!

drine
01-04-2010, 06:42 PM
Probably not stainless. The claw mount will walk without the "saddle" on something like the G3 sight. Got a picture of it?
The little hole is there for forming the receiver. Some folks tap it and use a set screw to hold certain mounts. The Low-pro mount is the way to go. Claws go up and down to grip the lugs. Any type that squeezes in can bind the carrier. Claw mounts walk without an anchor. You can get the good MFI type for $120 or so or get the not so pretty but useable aluminum type. The third option is the weld on picatinny rail sold here by Turbothis. If you can refinish your gun, that's the way to go.

glennwih
01-04-2010, 06:54 PM
Here are the photos. The scoped photo was this morning. The other one was last month during my 1st shoot. I've heard of cast, stainless and stamped receivers for CETME rifles. The inside of y rifle looks like stainless steel but I'm not 100%.

Is there a cheaper scope mount (low profile) out there in stock? Links?

drine
01-04-2010, 07:01 PM
UTG, the one I bought. Yes it's CHEAP but works fine.
Check E-Bay if they don't make you sick. UltimateArms is the vendor. Price 14.99 plus shipping. It sits below your sights so you can use see through mounts if you want.
That's a stamped receiver you have btw. Check through the pictures in the CETME section of people's rifles and you'll see the difference.

glennwih
01-04-2010, 07:11 PM
Thanks. Is there a mount in between in price say $50-80? Any serial number or stamp marks that you can tell what the rifle is made of stainless, stamped etc. Milled is easy to spot.

bladeworks123
01-04-2010, 07:21 PM
Easiest way to spot a cast stainless receiver from a distance is that the rear sight is not welded on....The ears for the rear sight are cast as part of the receiver. The magazine well is squared and boxy and they are slightly thicker in the walls. And please, I hope nobody brings up the the magnet thing....

drine
01-04-2010, 07:26 PM
Thanks. Is there a mount in between in price say $50-80? Any serial number or stamp marks that you can tell what the rifle is made of stainless, stamped etc. Milled is easy to spot.

Basically no. Either they are dirt cheap or $140 or so. Unless I'm forgetting one.

Smokehouse69
01-04-2010, 07:48 PM
The UTG worked great on mine, I have a clamp on type on there now and I am going to see if I can get it to stick. I have not shot it since I put the scope in that mount, so I might not have anymore luck than anyone else.

Mortal_Wombat
01-04-2010, 08:33 PM
my utg HK clone moved forward when i shot the gun so im just gonna bite the bullet and cut of the cetme site and either braze or silver solder an hk rear site onto it.

Smokehouse69
01-04-2010, 09:40 PM
Have tried the screw in the receiver hole? I know some folks that have done that and were sucessful. Another alternative would be to get one of the Turbothis rails and do the Bladeworks thing of mounting it with screws. Look in the posts in this thread. http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=14579 :thumbup:

Mortal_Wombat
01-04-2010, 10:22 PM
i want that hk drum too haha ;)

BIGKID
01-04-2010, 10:35 PM
I love what Bladeworks did with that rail, but too much work. I think I'll weld one on my next build. I have tried several of the clamp on mounts and they all walked. The cheapie UTG one did hold on the longest, but at about 100rds it finally slid3/4".

bladeworks123
01-04-2010, 10:41 PM
my utg HK clone moved forward when i shot the gun so im just gonna bite the bullet and cut of the cetme site and either braze or silver solder an hk rear site onto it.

You can get the whole rear sight, new base, + new drum and all the little hardware for under $40 at RTG's.

Mortal_Wombat
01-04-2010, 10:51 PM
thats the plan

The-Stig
01-05-2010, 08:38 AM
UTG, the one I bought. Yes it's CHEAP but works fine.
Check E-Bay if they don't make you sick. UltimateArms is the vendor. Price 14.99 plus shipping. It sits below your sights so you can use see through mounts if you want.
That's a stamped receiver you have btw. Check through the pictures in the CETME section of people's rifles and you'll see the difference.

I had issues with the utg mount. It just wouldn't fit quite right. I ended up getting one of these http://www.robertrtg.com/hk_2-rail_mount.html - and it is tight, without crimping the receiver. You also get a whole extra rail to mount something on. I can't think of anything, but you might.

glennwih
01-07-2010, 05:46 PM
I bought the MFI mount, riser and rings (210.00 includes shipping to AZ). Should be here for a weekend shoot. I'll take some video and upload it to youtube etc.

jfowl31
01-07-2010, 06:03 PM
Just to add to earlier posts... There are only 2 types of Century receivers. Cast Stainless Steel and a Stamped Steel receiver. Up above there was a comma between cast and stainless, implying that there are 3 different types.

As stated, the easiest way to tell is the rear sight, but if you see both in front of you, the differences everywhere are obvious. Sharp lines and grooves on the SS, more pressed curved look to the stamped.