Rifle is doubling...

[Anthropy]

and is not from finger control.

I was out today and noticed that my cetme was releasing the hammer on the release of the trigger as well as the pull. It does not do it all the time, but most of the time.

I pulled out the trigger pack and it is how the hammer is being retained once the trigger is released. The rear catch does not seem to be holding it enough when the front catch should grab the hammer.

I had pulled the trigger pack appart before the last time I shot it and thought I put everything back together again. Is there something I need to pay extra attention to when putting it back together again, or is it possible that the century beaver's trigger / hammer are suspect?

If it is the hammer / trigger, where can I get a replacement set? Hopefully not from century.

Thanks,

Tom

[rustypirate]

Usually this behavior is caused by the hammer spring arms not being held in the grooves of the interruptor on the back side of the sear.

the spring arms are what give the interruptor enough force to keep the hammer retained long enough to allow the sear to catch the hammer upon release.

[Anthropy]

I pulled the trigger pack appart again and re-assembled it. After re-checking the trigger pack out of the rifle, I am getting the second shot on the release of the trigger. First shot is from the pull and second is from the release.

I checked the hammer spring and tried to re-bend the spring a little to put more pressure on the interruptor that is on the sear and it still was having issues.

It is like the interruptor is not pushing the trigger forward so that the front hook is catching the front hook on the hammer. It is more like it is catching it right on the edge of the front hook.

It has gotten me a bit peeved


edited

[rustypirate]

There is a way to fix this. You can remove the sear with the interruptor attached. Then rotate the interruptor up and out of the way of the rear of the sear where it pushes against the sear upright. VERY CAREFULLY file a little at a time off of the rear upright of the sear to allow the interruptor to protrude further out of the front side of the upright when the spring tension is on it. This will cause the interruptor to engage the hammer longer before slipping off so that the sear can catch it. You do not have to remove a lot of material, so go very slowly and test the progress often. Make sure to keep burrs from binding the interruptor as well, it needs to move freely.

[Anthropy]

I will have to give that a try. Thanks very much.

Another thing I noticed today is that above the front hook of the hammer is a little protrusion. This protrusion rubs against the front hook on the sear when the hammer is depressed (bolt going backwards).

It is like Century (thought they) needed more engagement surface on the hook and back cut the front hook of the hammer (above the hook). I thought about grinding the protrusion off of the hammer.

[Anthropy]

I removed about a 1/32 off the back of the sear to allow the interrupter to swing forward more. It took about 3 tries to get it right, but I played it safe and removed a little material at a time. Now the trigger fully resets when the trigger is released.

I did end up removing the little tit on the hammer (right above the front hook of the hammer when cocked) where it would rub against the front hook on the sear. There was no reason for it to be there and it was abrading the front hook on the sear causing wear.

My guess it was just barely within spec when I first purchased it, then when there was a little wear on the parts, it was out. Dam Beavers !!

Thanks bunches for the help.

[roland3]

mine does the exact same thing. i bought all new trigger parts and every thing and it still did it. I havent fired it yet thou, i am just completing the build. but I couldnt figure out why it was doing it. It never did it at first and then all of a sudden started doing it.I thought about removing stock where you said you did, but have not done it yet. so it sounded like that fixed the problem?

[Anthropy]

Follow Rusty Pirate's advice and it is really easy to do. I used a small mill file and vice, then took off a little material at a time then re-assembled the pack for each test.

To test, lay the pack on its side and work the pack by hand by pulling and holding the trigger, let the hammer release (follow it through so it does not smack the front of the trigger pack). Re-cock the hammer by hand, then slowly release the trigger.

You can see the process through the little window of the bare trigger pack.

The interrupter (swing lever) should hold the rear hook on the hammer long enough so that the front hook of the sear picks up the front hook on the hammer and FULLY ENGAGES when the trigger is released. If it is not fully engaging each and every time, remove a little more material.

The hardest part is getting the hammer back in the trigger pack each time. I found small screw driver was helpful to temporarily hold the hammer in place, then I could make sure that the little horns of the trigger return spring were retained under the hammer before putting in the hammer pin in.

[rustypirate]

Also make sure that the hammer spring arms are resting in the grooves on the interruptor like they should first. That is the usual suspect.

[Texxut]

Rustypirate, do you have a picture or drawing of the interrupter and the area you reworked? Thanks.

[jfowl31]

http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=3874&highlight=doubling

I think the drawings you are referring to are in that thread... along with some other pics.

[Texxut]

Thanks jfowl31, I went back and checked that link. That cleared it up for me.

[bspring]

Also check the pin the holds the interrupter in place, I have seen these walk out and cause doubling problems.

Bill