Cetme Touchup

[JayGeeWentWorth]

I recently had a chance to run quite a few rounds through my cetme:2pistol:

While doing this, however, I managed to get a few small scratches on the receiver. Does anyone have any suggestions for touching up minor blemishes? I think the finish on it is the standard century semi-gloss black. :thanks:

[M1 Tanker]

Jay, thats powder coat that Century uses.

Alumahyde II in matte black is an excellent match. The downside is it has a 2 week drying time.

[rustypirate]

If you are talking about the little brass kisses around the ejection port, just wear them with pride.

[Anthropy]

You could get some Alumahyde black paint from Brownells. It works pretty good and is a low heat cure paint. I had to do some minor alterations for fit to my reciever and then use the stuff to cover up the sanding marks.

One thing I found that helps a little using it after you clean off the grease and oil, is to warm up the surface and the can before application. Then let it sit at 90 deg F for a week. In winter time, I used a little fan blown electric heater pointed at it. I used a thermometer to measure the temp right next to the parts, then adjusted the distance to get the correct temperature range.

[97th Signalman]

I recently had a chance to run quite a few rounds through my cetme:2pistol:

While doing this, however, I managed to get a few small scratches on the receiver. Does anyone have any suggestions for touching up minor blemishes? I think the finish on it is the standard century semi-gloss black. :thanks:

I have used semi-gloss or flat hi-temp paint on several occasions. Either ourdoor cooking grill touch-up paint or automotive exhaust system paint have both worked OK for me. After touching up, I heat the spot with a heat gun to set up the paint and get a quick cure. If I don't touch it for a few days it seems to get the desired hardness. After hardening, I have burnished it with 600 wet sandpaper or 0000 steel wook to get a good blending of the new with the old finish.

This is a whole lot different from using one of the top notch finish paints out there like Duracoat and Gunkote to name a few, but I don't think those are intended for spot touch-up. Rather, they are best used to refinish a whole gun and very good results can be attained with those products if you closely adhere to their instructions.

[JayGeeWentWorth]

If you are talking about the little brass kisses around the ejection port, just wear them with pride.

There actually isn't much of a finish issue around the ejection port, but I could live with a little damage there. I got a BMP msg90 stock and it is incredible tight fitting. It was difficult to get on, but nearly impossible to get off for cleaning. After working on it for about a half hour I finally decided to get a punch and pound it off. I used a cloth in between the punch and the rifle, but I still got a few minor scratches I'd like to take care of.

I also did a bit of bump firing and my scope mount got caught on my clothes which made the mount slide and scratch the top of the receiver. As I said before, the damage is not too bad, but I'd like to fix it.

Thanks everybody for the input. I'm going to give the alumahyde a try.
:thumbup:

[drine]

The primer I used seemed to hold up well at the range and the unprotected trip there and back. I notice it wears very similar to OEM park on the stock and forearm parts. The scuff and wipe away for the most part. Thus far so does this stuff. I intend to use this pup often so I really hate to pour a lot into the finish.
Duracoat and the others aren't too expensive IF you have the tools already. Sandblasting is a must and don't try to cut that corner. You will see every scratch and scrape if you don't. drine

[Rampager]

I've had good results with high temp header paint (flat black) from autozone. It resists most cleaning solvents too.