AK slant break question.

[SSwee]

Can someone tell me the proper procedure for installing one of these breaks? If I hold the spring loaded detent pin in and screw the break on, it snugs up with the slant at 9:00 looking down the barrel and I have to back it off almost 3/4 a turn to seat the detent with the slant at approximately 1:30. Does this sound correct? I have one on a Yugo that wiggles quite a bit for my comfort.
SS

[LostInTexas]

Sweee, that's normal. I've never had one line up and be tight at the same time.

[SSwee]

I wasn't sure how loose was too loose or if there was such a thing. The Romak I have indexes to the same places but isn't near as wobbly. I was almost concidering making some indexing washers.
SS

[hunter_la5]

the slant brakes on my yugo AK as well as my brother's are both very wobbly. i think this is normal

[Player]

mine didn't come tight, and it bugged me, and i know it's normal, but it bugged me

so i took a cutting disk from my dremel tool, and slowly sanded the back down, flat with the cutting disk. i would sand it, fit it, sand it, fit it, sand it.............

finally, it came in place, 12:00, AND it was nice and tight, it also tighened my AK's groupings a bit too



P.S. it's a lot quicker with the cutting disk on the dremel tool, but CAREFUL!!!!

[nalioth]

The slant brake is supposed to face between one and two o'clock.

It was designed to keep the muzzle down during full auto firing by right handed soldiers.

[SSwee]

Thanks Henry. That's the easiest thing to do and I didn't even think about it. It's not hard to figure how much to skim off the back to get what I need.

Nalioth,
I get the index location and why. I just didn't like the amount of slop in the threads. Your input is always appreciated.
SS

[walt-oxie1]

The slant brake is supposed to face between one and two o'clock.

It was designed to keep the muzzle down during full auto firing, the angle is to counteract the torque from the projectiles leaving the rifling.

Fixed it for ya.:wink:

You can remove material off the back of the brake to get it to index right. Lay a sheet of sandpaper on a flat sheet of glass or other totally flat surface and remove the material needed.

[nalioth]

I personally don't like grinding on things to make them fit.

I got a WASR-2 back in the day, and had the muzzle threaded 14x1LH (standard AK spec)

Put a 14x1 to 24mm thread adaptor on it and a Global Trades US made AK74 brake.

That thing wobbled and clanked so bad (cuz they didn't cut the threads up to the front site block)

I went and bought some high-temp silicone o-rings and put one right in front of the FSB and tightened the adaptor down.


No more rattle. :thumbup:

[harris hawk]

As Nalioth said, high temp silicone o-rings will get the job done. Here are a few other ideas that have worked for me, as well. A collapsible automotive oil drain plug washer(brass, copper, steel, not nylon), painted black with high temp engine paint. I've used blue, medium strength, loctite on the threads, and that takes the slop out of the fh/brake. By using medium strength thread lock, you can still remove the fh/brake for periodic cleaning. All of the above fixes have worked for me, but, currently I'm using the blue loctite on all of my AK type rifles:thumbup:.
Michael

[Darkwatch]

I'm with Harris Hawk I don't have the spring for my break and I just used blue loctight! Works like a charm!