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JayGeeWentWorth
06-07-2007, 11:20 AM
I have a Cetme with the standard magazine release on the side of the magwell. However, I was considering installing a paddle mag release. Would someone mind telling me exactly what parts I need and exactly how to go about doing this. I'd like to give it an attempt if it's not too difficult.

nalioth
06-07-2007, 11:32 AM
Here is one option: http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=246

Alas, on the old forum, there was a wonderful thread on 'how to' do it (legalities and otw).

Maybe that member can repost.

Darkwatch
06-07-2007, 11:54 AM
I've always wanted to do this too but from what I remember from the old CETMErifles forum is it looked to be a real PITA:icon_neutral:?! It would be cool if we could get the walk through up here though!!

JayGeeWentWorth
06-07-2007, 11:56 AM
Here is one option: http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=246

Alas, on the old forum, there was a wonderful thread on 'how to' do it (legalities and otw).

Maybe that member can repost.

That looks like a decent option, but I noticed that that mag release works from left to right, whereas the original G3 release operated back and forth. I'd kind of prefer the original operation to be honest.

Patria Povo
06-07-2007, 12:08 PM
JG,

Nice suit! ;)

There was an excellent pictorial on doing a legal mag flapper instalation on the old site. Hopefully, M1 still as it soemwhere. As much as I'd like to do this mod, I as a little put-off by the fear of drilling and cutting my receiver. That said, I have the aprts at home to do it (RTG has them).... si maybe someday. I also got a few quotes from recommended 'smiths to do this .... and they were very expensive! Not dissing their work or prices, but $200+ for the sake of authenticity is out of my realityzone for now. So, I've settled for a Tac-Latch for now, which is pretty good for the money.

Good luck with whatever you go with.

M1 Tanker
06-07-2007, 12:10 PM
Found Perro's instructions. Remember these are for a cast receiver. I know it can be done on a stamped receiver, Jayson at IGF did my MP5, but it would be much harder IMHO.

http://www.geocities.com/miketheelectrician1/paddlemag.html

I'll get them on the forum too.

JayGeeWentWorth
06-07-2007, 12:15 PM
Thanks for the link!

mprtech
06-07-2007, 06:15 PM
Its not necesarily that hard. I added one to my stamped CAI. The shelf is very soft metal. I used a jig saw to make the parallel cuts and a drill press to finish cutting out the opening. Then used a file to clean up the opening. Drilled the cross hole using a clipped and pinned style lower as a guide and used a 1/8 drill bit and the shaft. I made a bushing out of a 1/4 inch drill bit and drilled a 1/8 hole in the middle. Welded over the hole I drilled and was done. Not that hard but no pics for ya. If someone lives near Milwaukee I'd be more than happy to help/document the installation.

JayGeeWentWorth
06-07-2007, 08:44 PM
My main concerns are 1) being able to drill a good hole that is square to the receiver because I don't have a drill press and 2) I have no idea how much needs to be notched out of the shelf. If you wouldn't mind telling me exactly how much you had to take out of the shelf, mprtech, I would appreciate it.

nalioth
06-07-2007, 08:54 PM
My main concerns are 1) being able to drill a good hole that is square to the receiver because I don't have a drill press and 2) I have no idea how much needs to be notched out of the shelf. If you wouldn't mind telling me exactly how much you had to take out of the shelf, mprtech, I would appreciate it.
According to the alphabet boys, if you drill a hole all the way through, you've created an NFA weapon.

The writeup on the old forum was extensively documented on the legalities (as well as lots of pix)

texlurch
06-09-2007, 12:19 PM
I have one from the FALFiles on a G3, pretty much the same. Let me get it on my site and I'll add a link.

Basically, the largest hole you can drill is 1/8th inch, and it cannot go all the way thru both sides. Then you need a spacer to go from the 1/8 to the id of the mag release. A Tweco mig tip fits just about perfect.

Here is what I have..

http://webzoom.freewebs.com/heads_up_racing/Fake%20pin%20and%20paddle%20release%20G3.doc

mprtech
06-09-2007, 06:49 PM
Here's some pics, hope they help. You need to trim all the way to the edge of the magwell basically. If you don't trim back far enough the paddle will function without a mag, but with a mag in you will not have enough travel to pop the mag. I know this from experience. I had to heat and bend my paddle to add leverage. If you trim all the way back to the magwell you won't have that problem.

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/mprtech/backup289.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/mprtech/backup288.jpg

http://i151.photobucket.com/albums/s138/mprtech/backup287.jpg

JayGeeWentWorth
06-21-2007, 11:25 PM
Thanks for the pics. I am almost done installing my paddle mag release. It was definitely a challenge for me with only a dremel and a drill, but I am pretty happy with how it came out. I just brazed the hole shut tonight and I hope to grind the excess nickel down and do the refinishing tomorrow. Unfortunately, I have lost the pin that holds the magazine release assembly together, but hopefully I will be able to find it soon. It is in my room somewhere.:confused:

I will post pics when I get it finished. Thanks for the help everyone.

JayGeeWentWorth
06-29-2007, 01:42 AM
Ok, I am finally done and have a couple of pics to show. First I'd like to mention that I followed this (http://www.geocities.com/miketheelectrician1/paddlemag.html) tutorial step-by-step to install the mag release. These instructions are for a cast receiver, but nothing really changes other than the fact that it is necessary to notch out the semi-auto shelf if you have a stamped receiver. As mprtech mentioned, it is important to notch all of the way back to the magwell wall. Otherwise, the flapper may function without a mag in, but with a mag in, it will not work. Hopefully, the picture below will clarify what I am trying to say about how far to notch the shelf out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/megaman590/PaddleMag1.jpg

As you can hopefully see, I basically notched the shelf all the way back to where it starts to angle down.

Now, regarding the placement of the hole that needs to be drilled in the receiver. The best way to line up the correct position for the hole is to use a grip frame that is clipped, but still has the ears on. I originally used a G3 SEF polymer navy style grip frame as a template for the hole. I drilled the initial hole in the dead center of the grip frame hole. I say initial because I found that this location did not allow the mag release to function with a magazine installed. So, I had two options: heat and bend the mag release like mprtech did, or braze over the original hole and drill a new one. I chose the latter option, which was a major pain in the ass. To avoid having to do this, I would position the hole up as high as possible (the top of the hole should basically be at the top of the semi-shelf) and as far back as possible (this will be limited by the mag release hitting the back of the shelf, which should be even with the rear magwell wall.

Other than that, the instructions I used are great and detail most steps in this process very well.

As a little disclaimer, the instructions I have posted here worked well for me and my rifle, but are not guaranteed to do so with your rifle if you use them. Thus, follow them at your own risk.

That said, here's a sideview with a mag installed :thumbup:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v495/megaman590/PaddleMag2.jpg

As a side note, I used Matte Black Aluma-Hyde II to do the refinishing on my receiver. I ended up refinishing the whole receiver even though it technically wasn't necessary, but I had a few scratches I had been meaning to touch up anyway. I was going to do the entire rifle, but I emailed the tech support at brownells because I was worried how Aluma-Hyde II would hold up under higher temperatures. They responded that Aluma-Hyde II is not designed for high temperatures and will start to break down above 400 degrees F. Thus, I left the barrel alone. Aluma-Hyde II is very easy to use if you are contemplating on a refinishing method. This was my first ever firearm refinishing job and I'm quite pleased with how it came out. Also, Matte Black is a good match to the original Century powder finish. The color is right on, but the Aluma-Hyde II isn't quite as glossy as the original century finish, but it's hardly noticeable.

Finally, thanks for all of the support to everyone who assisted me in this little project. There is no way I would have be able to undertake this task without your help.

mprtech
06-29-2007, 08:25 AM
Nice job, looks like it turned out great.

Reloader_26D
07-06-2007, 12:32 PM
JayGeeWentWorth, Good Job! I've been considering trying to do this, but considered it way beyond my skill-level. You have inspired me to at least look into this a little further. Thanks! :thumbup:

MJ11
09-06-2010, 07:27 PM
25 years ago the rules were so gray on this addition of the mag flap that most people sent thier receivers to red dog target service and let the papered people do it. With all this building going on now it lost it's double fear factor. Plus there was a guy at Tillman Eng. who had a kit the put the lever in it the traditional place.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/montereyjack/f940f2a0.jpg

$26k

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/montereyjack/0d5cb6e9.jpg

ddot
09-06-2010, 09:07 PM
If you want it done RIGHT for a fair price, Bill springfield or ghilliebear2000@yahoo.com