80% AR-15 Lower from Tactical Machining - Ready For Polish

[I_Am_Oz]

Yeah, I'm a glutton for punishment. I finished machining up a bunch of 80% lowers from TM and got the really 'smart' idea of doing one of my AR-15's lowers polished. The the last real big job I did was on an Edelbrock intake manifold for my 350... a LOOOONG time ago.

So long ago in fact, I forgot how much work it really is. Well, I just wrapped up using some worn 1000 grit on one of the lowers. I think it's ready for the buffing wheel.

http://www.aaronoz.com/images/shooting/Done.jpg

And the other side:
http://www.aaronoz.com/images/shooting/Done2.jpg

Oz

[mitchstoner]

I've polished aluminum, but mainly straight or large curved surfaces on trucks: fuel tanks, grille parts, wheels. Getting those parts to a high polish wasn't too hard--although I sure wasn't aiming for the perfect surface you would want on a receiver.

But I seem to recall the finest grit paper I used was probably 320 or thereabouts (on a 6" dual-action air sander), then straight to the rubbing compound--using a power buffer with, probably, a 9" pad. Just auto body paint rubbing compound. But the sanding scratches really did disappear pretty quickly. It was easier than polishing lacquer.

Will you be using small wheels and tips with a Dremel?

I am very interested in seeing your results and finding out how you do it, and how long it takes.

Thanks.

[bladeworks123]

Cool idea, what do you plan on sealing it with when you get it polished out?

[HKILLER]

Looks good maybe some good automotive clear might seal it up. Like ar-delorean (I know they were stainless).

[I_Am_Oz]

Thanks for the input mitchstoner. Yeah, I was going to use a pretty beefy wheel for the bulk of the polish and then dremel buff the inside edges. That's why I went all the way to 1000 grit, just to be safe. I need to add up the hours. Maybe not as bad as first through...

Sealing it is the real question. Auto clear isn't a bad option, but it looks worse than scratched aluminum if it's ever scratched. Although the urethane's are pretty tough! I've heard of 'clear anodizing' (not to be confused with hard anodizing)... but I've never seen it in real life, up close. I set up a small anodize job for a trigger I made and after the acid/electrical process, the aluminum went dull-grey before I dropped it into the RIT dye. So I'm not sure 'clear anodizing' is the answer for a mirror finish. I'm off to do research. Otherwise I think a clear automotive finish is the best option.

HKILLER, I'm looking into that specifically. I know for some automotive aluminum, it's expected that you'll just be wiping it down on occasion and that the oils to which the aluminum is exposed provide the protection needed. I don't feel like oiling my lower and wiping it down just to keep it shiny.

I'm open to research suggestions!

Oz

[bladeworks123]

We used to use some stuff called Nyalac which is the finish they use on automotive wheels. It's pretty tough.

[bladeworks123]

Look over at www.eastwood.com that's where we used to get it.

[bladeworks123]

I had it spelled wrong, it's Nyalic... www.nyalic.com

[I_Am_Oz]

Man Bladeworks... that looks like the right stuff for the job. You saved me quite a bit of time looking around.

[bladeworks123]

Do your final polish by hand with Mothers' Mag polish. It will keep the aluminum from developing an oxidation layer before you seal it. Just before you seal it, clean it to get the Mothers off with windex and a super soft lint free cloth, and cotton jersey gloves. You should think about sealing the inside also before you polish the outside. Maybe with a bake on Teflon like Brownells has in the rattle can. That Nyalic will dry to the touch in a few hours, but takes three to four weeks to cure hard. Once it does cure, you can hand buff it out like glass, but you probably won't need to. We used to put it on with an air brush on polished aluminum auto trim parts. It's goes on thin too, not like urethane. My guess is that Jagman has used it, or something very similar where he works on the restoration cars they do. He might even know of something as good or better. But I'll bet the Nyalic will make a parade rifle out of that lower. Bling,,,,Bling,,,,

[I_Am_Oz]

This is basically a step-by-step for something pretty unusual. Thanks for all the input! I couldn't imagine a more sound plan to finish this off.

BTW - The theory behind this is that zombies are easily distracted by shiny objects. It should offer some distraction and provide extra time. A buddy of mine suggested it would be useful for the wives/girlfriends. You know... When you send 'em out on patrol, they have a way to check their makeup :wink:

Oz

[bladeworks123]

This is basically a step-by-step for something pretty unusual. Thanks for all the input! I couldn't imagine a more sound plan to finish this off.

BTW - The theory behind this is that zombies are easily distracted by shiny objects. It should offer some distraction and provide extra time. A buddy of mine suggested it would be useful for the wives/girlfriends. You know... When you send 'em out on patrol, they have a way to check their makeup :wink:

Oz

Well when you get it done, send it my way and I'll laser cut and fill the zombie killer emblem thing on it or a zombie skull or any dozen of the other zombie graphics.....god knows I'm getting good at those ....but it's whatever people like I guess.

[M14sRock]

That is very cool. Can't wait to see it done.

[I_Am_Oz]

Took it to the big wheel with just red compound... I'm pretty proud of myself. It's flat and polished up well. The time will be in the corners with a small dremel buffer. We'll get 'er done soon enough.

Bladworks, do you know how well that bake-on moly/teflon stuff from Brownells sticks? The inside of this thing is about as rough as an endmill with a slight amount of chatter. My fear is that the spray it bake it stuff won't stick. I could try to sand blast the inside to rough it up. The FCG pocket will probably blast well. But the mag well will be tough to blast very deep.

Oz

[M14sRock]

I use a lot of the Brownells & KG coatings. I tried the bake on teflon on my Hi-Power and it was not as durable as the GunKote.

[bladeworks123]

The thing I've found with the teflon on aluminum is that it does seem to penetrate so even if it does rub or wear off it still keeps the exposed aluminum from oxidizing and gumming up. Noticeable mostly on alloy pistol frame rails and inside mag wells etc. It would be best to blast and paint, but you get into where you can get into. Also know that wherever you have had residual compound in contact with the aluminum that you need to get the surface good and clean, if you intend to coat there. I only use the teflon on internal and mating moving surfaces. It is a lot thinner.

[archangel_jx]

Looks awesome, can't wait to see it finished! Don't seal it though, It'll look great and will last forever with just a little extra care.

& +1 on the Mothers Polish!

[I_Am_Oz]

I just received the Brownells matte black teflon/moly oven bake coating and thinner. I'm a little poor-er but have enough of that stuff to do about 100 lowers. We're sandblasting the mag well and FCG pocket to spray and bake.

Archangel_jx, interesting you say that. After I polished up my 350 Chevy intake manifold, I used a clear on it. The mechanic down a few shops from us was mad at me. He said that the point to a polished manifold is that it wipes clean very easily and just minimal care keeps in shiny.

Well, with a year, the coating had yellowed and dulled. I would have been far better off doing what he said. That though occurred to me regarding this lower. The Mothers Polish should offer some level of protection as well... I could always go back and spray it with something later if needed I suppose.

Thanks for all the input everyone.

Oz