Using Berdan Primers...

[rep30cal]

Here is a list of steps I use to reload Berdan primed brass, this is only my
process and if anyone tries it, PLEASE use standard reloading "CAUTIONS"!
First, I tumble or clean the brass to get rid of any dirt or debris.
Then I deprime the spent primer using my RCBS Berdan Decapping Tool. You
will need to adjust the decapping pin on the tool, very small adjustments
until you have the right depth, too deep and you will ruin the anvil in the primer pocket, too shallow and the pin will just slip out of the primer. Place
the metal rod with a handle on it into the case mouth of the brass, now hook
the tool's claw on the rim and place the pin into the firing pin indentation,
when you push down on the lever, it will cam out the spent primer. This step
can be a real pain in the rear until you get the hang of it, have patience.
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/8098/reloadingpics001iw7.th.jpg (http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics001iw7.jpg)
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/1447/reloadingpics004qz8.th.jpg (http://img187.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics004qz8.jpg)
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/9569/reloadingpics005wt8.th.jpg (http://img505.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics005wt8.jpg)

After depriming, I have removed the decapping pin from my resizing die, do
not remove the expander ball, you still want it to do it's job. I lube the brass
and run it through the sizer die, then I trim the brass to length and deburr
the case mouth. My next step is to remove the primer crimp, I took a LEE
Chamfer Tool and modified the point on it with a Dremel tool to have a
hole in the end that will fit over the anvil inside the primer pocket. When I
turn this inside the pocket it removes the crimp, I also took the inside of a
Dremel tool 1/2 inch sanding drum and put it into the chamfer tool so I
can use my drill to do the work.
http://img164.imageshack.us/img164/4800/reloadingpics006be2.th.jpg (http://img164.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics006be2.jpg)
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/7811/reloadingpics012vr0.th.jpg (http://img505.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics012vr0.jpg)
http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/2619/reloadingpics013ic9.th.jpg (http://img521.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics013ic9.jpg)

After checking to make sure the primer pocket is free of any junk and that
the firing holes are clear by holding the brass up to a light (I use a tip cleaner
for torches if they are not), I can place the new primer into the brass. I use
a RCBS hand priming tool, the tray and large primer guides are loose enough
to allow a Berdan primer through on mine, sometimes you have to flip the tray
with your finger to get the primer into the feed tube and I check each one
before I put the brass into the tool to make sure that the primer is turned the
right direction, then I prime the brass.
*****The Berdan Primers are NOT as DEEP as the Regular Large Rifle Primers
that the Tool is Designed for, Be CAREFUL or you WILL set the new primers
WAY TOO DEEP****** I drilled and tapped the handle of my tool so I can
adjust the depth it pushes the new primer then I set a jam nut so it don't
move. Make sure you new primer is set deep enough that it is not sticking
out at all from the primer pocket, you don't want any "slam fires".
Oh, by the way, I pressed a couple of primers as deep as the tool will push
them and they didn't go off, they were just way too far in for the firing pin
to ever hit them.
http://img505.imageshack.us/img505/1277/reloadingpics014vs5.th.jpg (http://img505.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics014vs5.jpg)
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1736/reloadingpics015cv3.th.jpg (http://img517.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics015cv3.jpg)

Now you can charge the case with your favorite powder charge, press your
favorite bullet in, check your cartridge overall length and crimp to taste.

This is the steps I go through, it can be a pain till you get everything set to
how you like it but if you have extra time on your hands, I think it is worth it.
If anyone tries it PLEASE be CAREFUL and follow the basic safety measures.
Neither me nor this site wants to be responsable for someone else's
negligant actions.

[rep30cal]

Also, I'd like to add that in the first pic you can see that I put a layer of
heat shrink tubing on the case holding tool, that knurling is sharp and was
tearing up my hands.
And in the third pic, my thumbs are only there to hold everything in place
for the pic to be taken. In that position, my left thumb stands a real good
chance of getting deprimed, lol.

[JayGeeWentWorth]

Nice tutorial. Is it possible to seat the primers with a regular die and press or is the RCBS primer seater pretty much the only option?

[rep30cal]

Thank you, I would say that if the primer will fit through the feed tube
then you should be OK. My guess would be that the LEE Auto prime will
work, the one that fits onto your press, but I doubt that the RCBS Primer
Strips, the brass feed tubes or the little spring loaded jobs like on a Rock
Chucker or Lee Turret would be big enough, I don't have any to try.
The Berdan primers are a little bigger around.

[mofocus]

so it can be done :)

[JayGeeWentWorth]

Thank you, I would say that if the primer will fit through the feed tube
then you should be OK. My guess would be that the LEE Auto prime will
work, the one that fits onto your press, but I doubt that the RCBS Primer
Strips, the brass feed tubes or the little spring loaded jobs like on a Rock
Chucker or Lee Turret would be big enough, I don't have any to try.
The Berdan primers are a little bigger around.

Ok, I just ordered a lee kit and will find out soon enough if the lee auto-prime will work. :1087:

[rep30cal]

I went to check for you and the LEE Auto Prime setup will work with a
little touching up. The primers will fit super through the whole system,
but at the very end of the feed tube there is just enough resistance
to stop the primer about 1/16th inch from going all the way home. The
weight of a few more primers shoving on it will probably finish seating
it or if you took a rat-tail file and cleaned the molding marks in the end
of the tube, that would most likely help. Believe me it won't take much.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/8024/reloadingpics021tn6.th.jpg (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics021tn6.jpg)

Also here is a better pic of my hand primer with the set screw to adjust
how far it seats the primer and there is the type of Dremel Tool bit that
I used to put the hole in my LEE Chamfer Tool and the drum I use to
put power to it.
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/8264/reloadingpics019xn7.th.jpg (http://img444.imageshack.us/my.php?image=reloadingpics019xn7.jpg)

I do not know if these two pocket type will work and I don't have one
to try, I think they will be too tight for the primer to fit into.
http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/9355/rcbsprimertoolni7.th.jpg (http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?image=rcbsprimertoolni7.jpg)
http://img119.imageshack.us/img119/6968/leeprimertoolfo9.th.jpg (http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?image=leeprimertoolfo9.jpg)

Hope this helps.

[JayGeeWentWorth]

Thanks for checking. I'm glad to hear that I will be able to reload berdan primers with the lee auto press. :thumbup:

[JayGeeWentWorth]

Another question: I just got my gear in today and I was reading through the instructions for the RCBS Berdan Decapping tool. They said not to use the tool to remove crimped in primers found in most military brass. What is your take on this?

[rep30cal]

2100 pieces of military crimped brass and I had one broken tip. I feel
that, that is a lot of primers dug out. I really couldn't say because I
didn't catch it until the "primer back in", but who knows it may have
been that "PINDAD 85" stuff that caused my pin to break. That stuff
is an oddball size.

[Geilt]

The RCBS tool will work just fine with nearly all crimps but do expect to break a few of the pins trying to get the hang of using it. Its not hard, just something that requires a little practice.

I think they put the little note in about avoiding crimped primers so they are covrered if (when) someone breaks the pins or maybe digs the working end of the tool in their palm. Just look at the primer before you try to pull it and make a personal decision if the crimp appears too substantial.

[rep30cal]

Also if you break a pin, don't sweat it, just call RCBS and tell them you broke
a pin on your tool. They will send a new one, maybe two, right out to you,
and pretty quick at that.

[Geilt]

Also if you break a pin, don't sweat it, just call RCBS and tell them you broke
a pin on your tool. They will send a new one, maybe two, right out to you,
and pretty quick at that.

You can also buy extra pins for something like $5 a piece. I am thinking of buying like 3-4 more just in case. It bugs me to be in the middle of reloading and then come to a screaching halt because something breaks, jams or otherwise interupts my work.

[JayGeeWentWorth]

Ok, I am glad to hear that the tool will work with crimped primers. When I bought the tool I went ahead and ordered another pin just in case. Hopefully 2 will last me a while.

[rep30cal]

I agree with you guys, I hate it when I'm on a roll and have to stop for
a couple of days to wait on a part. I have a spare now too because I
called for a replacement and then made one out of a drill bit the right
diameter. I just compared the point I was grinding on the bit to the one
that was broken and "WhaaLaa", a new point that has removed about
900 primers just fine.

[JayGeeWentWorth]

What about crimping? I've read that some people don't crimp and some do. Which option is the best for 7.62 Nato?

How about handgun cartridges like .380 or 9mm?

[rep30cal]

Personally I crimp all of my .223/5.56 ammo, I have had entirely too
much of it that I could move the bullet in and out with my fingers, so
why risk it? My thoughts on .223/5.56 are for your future use, as for
7.62/.308, I only crimp what I am going to use in a semi-auto or might
use in a semi-auto. If a bullet gets pushed farther into a case when
cycling, that can increase case pressure and possibly cause a KaBoom.
I don't want to risk a shell and or gun blowing up in my hand/face. The
bullets in a 7.62/.308 seem to seat good and snug in the brass so I
don't crimp my bolt gun ammo because the feeding process is a WHOLE
lot less violent in a bolt gun so you don't have to worry as much about
a bullet being pushed back.
I use and am very happy with the LEE Factory Crimp Die, it has a collet
simular to a lathe's four jaw chuck, it can only pinch so tight, so you
can't over crimp which could cause an over pressure problem. It doesn't
matter if a bullet has a canular or not, it will still make a nice crimp, the
case length isn't as critical either like on the crimp mode built into a bullet
seater die. Each caliber has it's own factory crimp die and they are only
about 12 bucks each, so they don't break the bank.
Like i said, I use it for piece of mind and safety, a lot of guys say "you
don't need the added step", but what's a life or body part worth for a
hobby. JMO.

Oh yeah, my only real handgun reloading knowledge is with
revolver ammo, I am just getting into .45acp so I'll leave that
one alone for now.

[JayGeeWentWorth]

Ok, I am loading for a Cetme so I guess I will definitely be crimping as I have the Lee factory crimp die. I don't plan to load any handgun cartridges for a while anyway.



I can't remember if you mentioned it or not, but what brand of dies do you use? I got the complete .308 Lee set and am having trouble removing the decapping pin from the resizing die. The little pin does come out of the main rod right?

[rep30cal]

I think that on the LEE dies the decapper pin is a pressed in piece and
if it breaks you have to get the whole rod. What you will need to do is;

first, loosen the nut that tightens up the rod,

take a piece of brass and run it slowly into the die, when the brass is
completely in the die the rod will have been shoved up into the die,

move the rod on up about an 1/8th to 1/4 inch and tighten it back down,

remove the brass from the die and you should feel resistance when the
case neck reaches the expander ball on the rod,

if you feel the brass go over the expander then it has done it's job and
you won't have to worry about breaking a pin because it will be up in
the brass and if you raised the pin a little bit extra it shouldn't hit the
base of the brass.

I have done this to a set of RCBS dies to run through a few odds and
ends brass.

[Geilt]

I am ordering a few of the Lee crimping dies after the first of the month (payday). I seem to recall Midway has all the different calibers in-stock and each runs just under $9 apiece. I've heard nothing but good things about these dies.