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The Extractor
06-24-2007, 12:35 AM
Hello all , been lurking for awhile ... Great stuff here . I bought a CAI cetme black widow I guess you would call it. The issue I have is that is extremely difficult to pull the bolt back on. I cannot figure out why this is. I tried my buddy's c91 and it is like butter compared to mine. The rifle functions ok otherwise but I think something is amiss. I have not checked bolt gap yet. I have completely field stripped and cleaned it and nothing jumped out at me. Well I appreciate any help sent my way. Thanks in advance. - A:icon_confused:

jfowl31
06-24-2007, 01:08 AM
Sounds like you have too much cocking tube gap. The cocking lever works in a camming action to unlock the bolt and then you actually pull it back.

If its hard at the very beginning and then easy after that, it probably means your gap in the cocking tube is too large, so it won't "cam" completely unlocked, but rather you have to complete the unlocking with brute force which is not easy. CAI may have ground the end of the carrier, so check for that and maybe get a new carrier, or if you can weld, you can add material to the end of the carrier and file/grind it back until you have the perfect cockign tube gap (should be just a tad more than your bolt gap).

If its hard all the way pulling it back, you could have a bent recoil spring rod. If its bent it can cause the carrier to bind... straighten it by hand and check for funtion.

Definitely go through the normal checks... bolt gap, bolt length (should be 1.835", if not, its ground)

good luck with it!

jfowl

Reloader_26D
06-24-2007, 11:08 AM
I recently picked up a CAI Sporter from an aquaintance with the same issues. I had a heck of a time pulling back on the charging handle. On this beast, the bolt head had been ground, and carrier looked a little dinged. I couldn't get a reliable headspace I replaced entire carrier assy, and now I have a smooth operator (...as smooth as possible). It headspaces at .018" now. It even shoots well. Good Luck! :thumbup:

richl
06-24-2007, 12:04 PM
if its brand new.. its gonna be tight for a while... run about 100 rounds through it .. after you take it apart and give it a good cleaning and lube job ,
it will start to loosen up ...

i am assuming it is new right???

tump
06-24-2007, 01:54 PM
also make sure the bolt carrier isn't tight against the cocking handle sleeve.this can cause false bolt gap and cracked welds on the cocking handle tube.can also make it difficult to charge.:icon_biggrin:

Heath_h49008
06-25-2007, 12:48 AM
First of all...clean it completely. And that means the .45cal brush on the chamber and trunion until the break free, or break parts cleaner comes way clean on the rag/patch. This must be done to get accurate readings.

#1 Bolt head. Measure it. It should be 1.835-1.833 or it is ground, as jfowl31 said.

#2 Bolt gap. Assemble the weapon, make sure it is empty. Drop the cocking handle with the standard H&K "slap" and pull the trigger for good measure. Then take the feeler guage to the bolt gap. It must be over .004, with an unground head, to be safe to fire.

#3 Check the cocking handle spacing. It should "Wiggle" freely with no real pressure, and almost no gap, on the end of the bolt when it is in battery.

#4 If the end of the cocking handle "L" is worn it might not be pushing the bolt carrier back far enough to disengage the rollers from the trunion...but this is more rare than simply having low bolt gap.

The feelers are available at any AutoZone for $5 give or take, and a nice set of calipers is mabey $20...if you don't just ask to borrow the ones they keep behind the counter for a second while you measure the bolt head.

:welcome1:

rustypirate
06-25-2007, 12:51 PM
The only other thing to check would be the charging handle pivot pin. Make sure it has not worked loose and is not binding in teh cocking tube.

Geilt
06-25-2007, 03:01 PM
The only other thing to check would be the charging handle pivot pin. Make sure it has not worked loose and is not binding in teh cocking tube.

The cocking lever pin on my cast Cetme does wiggle free after shooting 50-75 rounds but, at least in my case, it doesn't make it hard to cock. Rather, it hangs up when trying to let it slam back. More annoying than anything else but I should replace it.

The Extractor
06-25-2007, 03:59 PM
Wow , thanks guys Ill do some of that today while I am recouping. :thumbup::America:

The Extractor
06-25-2007, 10:45 PM
Here is what I found today.

I have an unground bolt that measures 1.8345

I have about .009 bolt gap with a dirty rifle . I know I know....

The recoil rod seems to be perfectly straight.


The bolt pull is difficult all the way back.

SSwee
06-25-2007, 11:20 PM
If you remove the butt stock and pull the charge handle back, do you feel any excessive drag or resistance?
SS

jfowl31
06-26-2007, 12:04 AM
also for diagnostic purposes... after you check if it drags without the buttstock, assemble the rifle without the lower and try it then.

If its easy, your ejector could be dragging and binding on the bolt.

It could also just need to be broken in... The best break in for a Cetme is to put soo much lube on it its oozing out of everywhere and run 100 rounds or so through it fairly quickly. That should make everything mesh together and all the operations smoother.

oh ps... :ttiwwop: lets see that cetme

The Extractor
06-26-2007, 08:02 PM
No drag with buttstock off. Pull is the same with FCG of also. Maybe Ill just go bang away with it after a dip in the oil tank.:2pistol::icon_biggrin:

picsinaminit!

richl
06-26-2007, 08:41 PM
if its brand new.. its gonna be tight for a while... run about 100 rounds through it .. after you take it apart and give it a good cleaning and lube job ,
it will start to loosen up ...

i am assuming it is new right???



sounds familiar ??????


awww hell whack it with a hammer ..........

The Extractor
06-26-2007, 09:32 PM
http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b83/OLDARMY45/DSCN1871.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b83/OLDARMY45/DSCN1870.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b83/OLDARMY45/DSCN1873.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b83/OLDARMY45/DSCN1874.jpg

:rockon:

Id ruther not bang on it wiff a hamma.... It would be not legal to put original wood on it, correct ?

JayGeeWentWorth
06-26-2007, 09:48 PM
When I first got my Cetme it was very difficult to cock also. Now, after about 7-800 rds through it, it is much easier.

You can put original wood on the rifle, but I think the buttstock (not sure about the forearm) counts as a compliance part meaning that you would have to get at least one more U.S. made part such as a cocking handle. There are others you can get too, but I don't have the list on the top of my head. It is here in the forums somewhere.


P.S. I just noticed that you don't have a flash hider. Interesting.

rustypirate
06-26-2007, 10:13 PM
Both the buttstock and handguard are compliance parts on your rifle.

The US made compliance parts should be:
Receiver
Charg Handle
Hammer
Pistol Grip
Buttstock
Handguard

The counted Imported parts are:
Barrel
Trunion
bolt Head
bolt Carrier
Trigger frame
Trigger
Sear
Magazine Body
Magazine Follower
Magazine Floorplate

You could replace the furniture with wood and replace the followers and floorplates in your mags, but you would have ot replace the followers and floorplates in ALL the magazines that you ever insert into that rifle.

Another alternative would be to locate a US made trigger and sear set, but those have not been made in years, and finding a set would be very difficult.

jfowl31
06-26-2007, 10:29 PM
K here's my semi-diagnosis... as good as I can get over the internet.

Since it didnt drag without the buttstock, you know its not binding on anything inside the receiver. And since it didnt bind with the buttstock and without the FCG, my guess would be 1 of 2 things...

1. your ejector is riding high and is rubbing on the bolt
2. it just needs to be broken in well (see lubing and shooting post above)

visually inspect the ejector through the magwell when you cock it and see if its touching the bolt... it shouldnt quite be touching, but it should be close. if all that is gravy, then I say lube and shoot and then check again.

also, since ammo is high, you might spread out some crappy sheets, lube it up til it drips and work the action all the way back and slamming home about 100-150 times in the living room floor... a bit noisy inside the house, but saves some cash.

jfowl