Show us your scopes and give a short review!

[rpmfly2]

This might include your mounts and tips and tricks also!

Long range, intermediate, or short!

Limitations and good features that you like!

[Optimus Prime]

I've got a Barska 1.5-6x42E on the Leper's low profile mount that you can actually get from www.airsplat.com and it works pretty well now that I've got it on a decent mount that won't slide around. The main reason I put that one on there was that I wanted the illuminated reticle and that was the only one that was in my price range at the time. Took a little while to figure out that you can focus it by unscrewing the front and screwing the front lens in our out, so I haven't been able to shoot it at full power yet (that and a general lack of ammo) but it takes the beating this rifle puts out pretty well.

[Optimus Prime]

It won't let me put up a picture since there's already one in the CETME/HK picture thread...

[SteelCore]

in 2.5x20 magnification that I used for years on my Mossy with the slugster bbl. I just got a receiver cover scope mount for my SKS, and I mounted it on there. The eye relief is a bit too long for me with the shoreter stocked SKS, though, so I may have to switch up.

The impressive thing is, Simmons scopes are relatively inexpensive, but it stoood up to a 12ga. slug kicking it, and when I mounted it on the SKS, it was only shooting 3in high and 3in left at 50yds. I'll prolly dial it in for 100yds, maybe 200yds.

I really am just goofing around with it, since the mount was cheap and I already had the scope.

I know, this is worthless without pix, so Imagine an older version of this:
http://i9.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/8f/5e/1df0_1.JPG
PLus this:
http://www.tickbitesupply.com/hipro.jpg
on this:
http://www.lewhorton.com/IOASKS01.jpg

and you sorta get the picture (I swaer I'll get my digi-cam running one of these days!

If I had it to buy over, I'd get the low mount that still lets you use the irons.

[rpmfly2]

I would like to see some of the mounts and scope configurations on them also! It's good to see how people overcome accuracy obsticles with scopes and mounts on a lot of different arms!

[rpmfly2]

These are great ideas and neither does anything permanent to alter anything from being able to return to a box stock configuration, does it? I find it hard to Bubba something and prefer to use things that do not alter anything permanently, as long as things are skillfully done and purposfull I find no problem at all!

[LCPL 4]

First one

POSP 8x42 D PRO MilDot w/ Independent Focus and MilDot Rangefinder Reticle Rifle Scope, Weaver Version from Kalinka Optics I have it mounted to a low-profile mount using the "ultimate scope mount solution" from the old board. Swat mount was just too high for a good cheek weld. I painted it with alumahyde 2 in matte black to match my black widow. Biggist complaint is I can't find a place long enough to really try some long distance shooting yet.

The other one I use on a more regular basis. It's a Mueller APV 4.5-14x Silver rimfire scope for my 10/22 stainless. Example pic shown. Love this one. Clear, crisp optics. No complaints. I highly recommend it.

Edit - It was a little over $200 for the POSP and just over $100 with free sunshade from mizzou mule for the APV. POSP pic shown from when it was mounted on Swat.

[jfowl31]

I saved my pennies and went with real quality for my Cast receiver.

I got the Hendsoldt/Wetzlar Fero Z24 scope with the German Stanag mount. It was $375 shipped from Dan's ammo, I dont know if they have any more. If they do, its a necessity as far as Im concerned for a cast Cetme.

Here's the stats:

4x 24mm objective
Rangefindng Post reticle.
Bullet drop compensator (doesnt really work too well)
Has a dovetail for attaching a reticle illuminator, which I just bought from CTD for $25 I think.

Mine ran out of elevation, so at the lowest setting, it hits about 3" high at 100 yards, but thats no biggie. At 200, it hits about 1" high, and at 300, its dead on. So basically its sighted in and "zeroed" at 300 yards.

At 475 yards, its 17 clicks up to the "3" +2 clicks (1 click = 1 cm)

at 600 yards, its 19 up from there (38 total) to 4 clicks below the "5".

i think its the greatest thing since sliced bread... crystal clear lenses, quality mount, rugged construction, lense caps that fold and flip open, easily adjustable with your fingers, and an illuminated reticle for those of you who go for that.

The claw mount works well on the cast model but not the stamped. If I had a stamped, Id go with the low profile, and thread the hole in the receiver, and probably put on a fixed low power leupold. I have a Bushnell Banner 6-24 power, and I really like it on my K31, but the long scope kinda screws up your ability to lock open the bolt on a cetme.

Here's some pics.

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i15/jfowl31/reartopscope.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i15/jfowl31/Rightwithplate.jpg

http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i15/jfowl31/600scope.jpg

[jfowl31]

btw, the scope is much clearer than the camera can do justince, and that plate could be seen clearly and precisely with my eyes. The camera seemed to focus a little on the trees in the foreground or something, and the plate looks cloudy. That plate is either a 10" or 12", I cant remember

[rpmfly2]

I have the illuminator already and will get one once I find a decent deal!

[tomoshenko]

JF,
I got the same scope and mount from Dan's Ammo. I had to cut down the saddle, the front pad and underneath the four lugs a bit before it would come even close to fitting on my cast receiver. When done I ran out of downward elevation as you did so I shimmed between the scope and the the front scope seat of the claw mount. Try a couple of thicknesses of heavy aluminm foil and work from there. I did not touch the claw mount otherwise as I want to use it for the PTR I ordered that I assume will have a non-monkey spec
receiver.

[Darkwatch]

Not to hi-jack the thread but Jfowl that paintjob looks great...the new pics really help! Sorry all you were talking about scopes and mounts right...

[jfowl31]

Theres some better pics here of it... http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=121

and thanks!

Tom, Im gonna leave mine as is for the time being as I broke the pin in the mount that all the stress is on during the clamping process... I think it had a weak spot or something because it just cracked when I clamped it down, and I had to pull some WECSOG to get the mount fully clamped on. I dont feel like messing with anything again, so Ill probably just leave the mount on there and never take it off. I could drive the pin out the rest of the way and go get one the same diameter to replace it, but it didnt want to budge when I messed with it at first, so I plan on just leaving it alone.

Besides, I like the setup with not having to adjust for elevation out to 300-350 or so. I can hit just about any animal in the head by holding center-skull out to 350.

[tomoshenko]

Theres some better pics here of it... http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/showthread.php?t=121

and thanks!

Tom, Im gonna leave mine as is for the time being as I broke the pin in the mount that all the stress is on during the clamping process... I think it had a weak spot or something because it just cracked when I clamped it down, and I had to pull some WECSOG to get the mount fully clamped on. I dont feel like messing with anything again, so Ill probably just leave the mount on there and never take it off. I could drive the pin out the rest of the way and go get one the same diameter to replace it, but it didnt want to budge when I messed with it at first, so I plan on just leaving it alone.

Besides, I like the setup with not having to adjust for elevation out to 300-350 or so. I can hit just about any animal in the head by holding center-skull out to 350.
I envy you Lone Star state lads and those wide open places for long range shooting...

I can only get out to 150 yds at my range.

Sorry to hear of the damage to your mount.

I kind of anticipated overloading the clamp down mechanism and cut and nibbled at the lugs untill I could lock it with finger pressure.

[jfowl31]

Thats the only fault I could find in the mount design was that all the pressure is on that one tiny pin during the clamping procedure. I was using "palm pressure" not finger pressure when it snapped. Im confident I could fix it, but I just dont feel like getting into it just yet. Maybe if I get another, Ill fix it so I can swap back and forth.

[esninak]

hey LCPL 4, what is the "ultimate scope mount solution" from the old board. i would really like to know. i have a stamped cetme that doesnt have the mounting lug on top and i would like some input on what mount is the best for my reciever. input from everyone would be greatly appreciated.

[LCPL 4]

Ha! I found sombody had copied this from the old board before it went down. They saved on their forum so I'm just copying it back.


The Ultimate Stamped CETME scope mount solution --seriously

This project starts with the leapers low profile mount. The locking blocks are steel, and the mount itself is hardened T6 aluminum.
You can get if from Cheaper than Dirt for $30 or from Airsplat for $15. Same mount, but some folks just won't buy from an airsoft dealer. The reason I went with this mount is that like the high-dollar B&T mount, the solid sides of the base only permit the locking pieces to be drawn UP to lock them into place. There is no possibility of them splaying outwards and thus loosening as WILL happen with other mounts.

Mine feels perfectly stable, but I decided to drill and tap it for a set screw just to be sure. To give credit where credit is due, this was inspired by Str8shuter's modification. However, as I was preparing to drill the mount, I noticed that the underside has several 3/16 inch slots to engage the HK scope stops. I also know that the hole in the Cetme Receiver is 3/16 of an inch as well. Then it occurred to me, "why not tap the hole, and thread in a set screw from below to engage the slot in the mount?" So I did.

The proper tap for the pre-existing hole is 12-24. You will also need a T-handle as pictured to reach the hole from below. The tap was $2, and the Handle was $5. After striping the weapon, simply start the tap into the hole from below, turn, and it is threaded in about 5 seconds, It's that easy. You then need to set and tighten the mount, with the slot over the threaded hole, and insert a 1/4 inch 12-24 set screw from inside the receiver, and tighten. This length set screw will mount perfectly flush yet allow sufficient torque to put additional pressure on the lower side of the mount, and hold the screw very tight. I could not find an allen-headed screw, so I am using a slotted one, but will change when I locate a stronger allen head. I will then apply locktight as well.

Only thing I did differently was go with a slightly different size allen screw and tap which I could get from the local auto parts store. Don't remember the exact sizes at the moment.

[rpmfly2]

Maybe we can find more of the old information and get it posted!:thanks: