View Full Version : GOry build: yeah im still building...

01-16-2013, 07:28 AM
hey im almost finished with another Gory build and wondered.... ive been feeling kinda lonely... is ANYONE else still building?

or is it just a case of everyone is scared to say they are building?

matters not im a build-a-holic so its what i do..

about the GOry: will add some pix in tonite! :-)

this particular Gory is the heavy finned barrel type and has a Virgin barrel and the repaired barrel with the method that Jestism & me came up with 4 years ago... it has the side cocking handle & originally had the electric fire set up that ive converted to spades with the same method posted in my spade grip tutorial. nothing new or fancy here. just improved as ive built more of them.

its the side fire box & has 2 different set ups.. my own box design (original idea & input on this came from DOUBLETAPME) & then it also has a Greg CLark Crankfire box. Gregs crankfire box works off of its own crank and you can still have the spades at the same time.

reason for the 2 boxes? some people dont like cranks & some states dont allow them. so no matter what the future holds for this gun it will be good to go. that and ive always felt that multi functional was better.

naturally its on the Gory mount with shield & later i'll make the can holder so that it has true pivot/swing while shooting without interruption.

Denials: pins hardened pins in side of receiver along with 1" of the front carrier section welded in on both sides.. also original FCG area is welded in the slots so it cant take a F/A group.... carrier and bolt relieved to match, so its a one off and no one elses parts are gonna fit unless they do it exactly the same. :-) also on the bolt carrier the top of the lug that used to activate the FP has been cut off so that a full length firing pin is in play. this still leaves enough of the lug to operate the bolt movement but nothging that would allow FA parts or firing. i can get into more depth if anyone needs it, but this is just a basic post on the build..

breakdown on this build for those who want to try it:

Gory kit was $545 ($499+$46 shipping when i got it, on sale for $475 now Apex)
virgin barrel was $325 (OOW)
mount w/shield was $364 ($299+$65 ship, COLES)
GClark crankfire box $300 (GClark)
belts/cans $50 (copes)
steel/alum (fcgbox,spades) $75 (Lowes)

Total $1,659

of course this doesnt cover the small stuff... bandages, electric, MIG gas, Grinder wheels, carbide burrs/bits.. MY TIME.. LMAO but those are things you have to be willing to "donate" to build this stuff.

so for around $1,659 ive got a gun thats selling for near $4,000 complete. not too shabby... although if i ever sell it? it would be FOR EXACTLY WHAT IVE GOT IN IT.... just like anything else. :-) and yes i do get bored with guns after ive built them.

this is a good way for anyone thinking they want to build one of these to look and see what it REALLY costs/takes.

M1 Tanker
01-16-2013, 07:40 AM
I passed on the SG kits, I'll bet after seeing pictures I'm gonna regret it.

I have kits to build but I don't have a shop at the moment. Between Hawaii and these quarters here, I'm without a welder and a compressor. I can't wait to be able to get back to building!

01-16-2013, 03:46 PM
The thing that kept me from the gory kits even back when they were supar cheep was the need for US parts...I don;t fabricate.

01-16-2013, 05:26 PM
what need for US parts?

its a crew serviced weapon.... 922R isnt an issue

then if you need them or just want to count parts for maybe laters? as per the BATFE clarification letter: repaired barrels & reweld receivers are considered US PARTS... then you ad hammer, trigger, discon.... that only leaves you 3 countable foreign parts (bolt, carrier, oprod/piston)

so dont let that scare you off.. headed out to grab some pix...

01-16-2013, 05:33 PM
Sean, what do you use for alignment jigs? I've got one of the rear charging units with the solid block for holding the barrel, not the adjustable type you have.

01-16-2013, 05:43 PM
ok heres a couple pix of the boxes and put together....

first heres my FCG box

and from the side you can see its pretty small... not "ugly"

then heres Gregs Crank on it... its a bigger box, but it has a reason since its a crank unit.. which makes it acceptable for the size.

then heres the L & R shots of it


im not all the way done tuning this build yet.. on my FCG its perfect. :-)

but on Gregs crank set up im not 100% happy with the discon & its release yet. the trigger geometry and such is fine but this particular discon just doesnt stay reliable in its feel or function ... so im gonna trade it out and try another one or 3.

these AR discons have ZERO QC on them and now days its very hard to get a good one.

01-16-2013, 07:41 PM
it's a beaut! A Gory is on my "Want" list.... one of these days.

M1 Tanker
01-16-2013, 08:09 PM
Holy Beltfed goodness! That turned out very nice SDK. Now get to work on a semi MG15 for me!!

01-17-2013, 06:28 AM
thanks guys!

it "looks" finished but its not. :-) still got to fine tune that crank box and get a couple hundred rounds thru it "error free" before i can call it done...

WeaselMaster: the spacing is not a big deal, you only have a couple of critical measurements... the front one that you set with headspace wedge and the barrel. thats the most important one to get right. the dimension on that slot is .70000 +/- .05 or so for the tolerance.

so if you have a receiver cut thru that area .... thats what you want that to be when you put it back together. then the various wedges if you dont have the adjustable one...

trick here is setting that space and tacking it together... i use angle iron on all 4 sides, clamp the crap out of it and tack in between doing the old hopscotch method..

after you get that done then just never sieze up the barrel and put it in. this lets you check before you get too far.. if it all fits and mounts as should? continue on. i leave the barrel in during this part as it will keep everything perfectly inline and takes out a lot of the warping fear.. then later when your capping off your patch work on this it will still slide right out cause of the never seize..

from there you move to the center section which is easy to space if you have the front done. barrel in, wedge in.. put in bolt and carrier with a empty case and chamber it... slide that section up on it and kick the bolt over into the lock position.. this is where most people have a little debate. plenty of varying numbers here.. as a set of builders, Greg, doubletapme & myself all settled on 30K space behind the bolt in that little wedge as the space.

why? personally i prefer 28K and then you can adjust the head space with your wedge adjustment... but Greg & DTM both used fixed adjusters and found 30K to be better as the common wedge size most of these kits had seems to be .699ish...

use the same technique to clamp, set, weld up this section... at this point you should be able to chamber a round by hand really easy.

that brings you to the last distance.... this number is totally unimportant! whats important at this part is your overall length matching up and being able to hit the mount holes.

they made these guns in lengths and with several K's of variance in each. so instead of saying this receiver needs to be 16.25" long or 17.75".... we tell everyone to just set the ck section according to if they have original matching parts using the seam line of the lower pads on the side..

for the short kit (like mine 16.25ish) vs the long kit (most of Gregs). the mount has a slider on it and will take either gun so its not an issue.

what IS an issue is the spring. you dont want to use the short spring if you have the long kit. guess what? they have no clue which spring they thru in there.... as they just threw parts in a bag and went on. we have seen many of these come with the "other" spring.

Greg actually sells the new factory replacement spring.

whew! thats all my foggy brain has in memory for this early.. ask me something else and i'll try to dig it back up.

Windy: thank you.

Tanker: thanks. nah bud im not gonna do a MG15... next project is another PKM. ive got a dandy of a kit for that one. :-)

01-21-2015, 11:23 AM
Sweet build!

I did not now that the crew served were not needed to be 922R compliant...course, my build exp is limited to 2 AKs and a pps-43 I'm still dinging around with.

01-21-2015, 12:37 PM
hi Steely!

what brings you to this old thread 2 years later? you getting around to doing a GOry?

01-29-2015, 08:27 AM
So, how did that crank work out? Saw one the other weekend and the owner was still having a bit of a time with it.

01-30-2015, 08:02 AM
you know me... i cant leave anything alone.

i had an early version of the 2 lobe crank from Greg. i played with it some & the only thing i ever had a problem with was that you could outrun it & get out of time with the gun which then gives you a problem with your resetting of the hammer & such..

just takes a little trigger time to get the rhythm of the gun & how its gonna cycle down & then it was good to go.

other change i made was in the pins. in the version i had Greg was still drilling them thru all the way.. so the pin could work its way OUT from the bottom. i went to fancy button head grade 8 bolts with nylocs on the bottom & that solved that.

i THINK on his later versions that he changed & didnt drill them all the way thru anymore. cant swear to that... but we did talk about it.

sold all of my GOry's. just had too much stuff & wanted to build more, so other stuff had to go. the ONLY beltfed stuff i have now is 50bmg, mg42 & PKM's... hell its the only crew serviced stuff ive got now.. even sold all the DP's & 1919's..

01-30-2015, 08:36 AM
WOW, I wish I was around for that sale. I got the belt fed bug a few years ago when I bought Milsurps 1919. Then it was an M2 and then a RPD. That's all for now. Been looking at a Maxim and I would really like a MG42. So many toys so little money. As all ways I look forward to the builds that you guys can do so keep us posted.