Removing the Century Muzzle Brake

[hunter_la5]

In light of the fact that we recently lost all of our technical forum stickies, I thought I might document my experience changing out the CAI "loudener" (muzzle brake) on my CETME just in case anybody else needed to see how it's done. The pics are kinda bad because I couldnt find my camera so I took these on my phone. Hopefully next time somebody decides to remove their brake they will take better pics and we can replace mine with their's.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/brakehider.jpg

1: LOCATING THE PIN

The first step is to locate the pin that holds the brake onto the rifle. Turn the barrel to the 6 o'clock position and make a mark about a quarter inch from the bottom of the brake. Using a dremel tool or something similar, SLOWLY grind down into it, checking frequently to see if the pin has been located. You shouldn't have to grind down very far at all before you see a faint black circle in the middle of the grind; that is the pin.
The pin is not very tall at all, so make sure you do not grind too far, otherwise you will grind right through it and into the barrel.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/6oclock.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/grind.jpg

2: REMOVING THE PIN

After the pin has been located, it must be removed. There really isn't anything holding it in there, so removing it is pretty easy. One method is to tap on the brake lightly until the pin starts to back out. Another way is to put a dot of super glue on the end of a punch, place the end of the punch on the pin head, let it set, and simply pull it out.
I used a magnet to pull mine out. Just put the magnet right over the pin and after a few tries it should come out pretty easily.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/pin.jpg

3: REMOVING THE BRAKE

Now for the hard part. After the pin is removed, it is time to twist off the brake. I believe Perro's method was to use a monkey wrench and torque it off, and others suggested sticking a long handled screwdriver through the muzzle brake holes and twisting it off. This works for some, but all i accomplished was breaking a screwdriver in half and the monkey wrench didn't do jack for me either.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/torque.jpg

Another popular method is to use a dremel cutting disk (or something similar) and cut through the holes on 2 sides of the brake to within about a quarter inch of the barrel. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT INTO THE BARREL ITSELF. CUT SLOWLY AND CHECK YOUR PROGRESS FREQUENTLY. Then, use a large screwdriver or a chisel and split the brake in half. This should loosen the brake enough to twist off.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/cut.jpg

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/split.jpg

After that, simply twist on your replacement muzzle attatchment. Viola!

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/both.jpg

Here's mine after I finished:

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/fh.jpg

As you can see, not only does it look more original, it allows the bayonet to fit better as well. Hope this helps everbody.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b99/hunter_la5/bayofh.jpg

The flash hider I used was a US made one from SSwee, a member of this board. I would highly recommend you purchase one of his flash hiders if you are thinking about replacing your brake.

[jfowl31]

not bad at all... I need to get back in touch with SSWEE, and see if he can make me a custom tapped size. I think Im just about convinced to take mine off, and measure the threads under there.

I dunno, Im still on the fence......... I like the noise sometimes, and sometimes I grow tired of hearing my hunting buddies complain when I blow their rifle off target when I shoot next to them into a herd of pigs.

[rustypirate]

Great job on that post Hunter! :thumbup:

[Enigma Nostra]

Any chance of this getting sticky'd?

Ive got one of Sswee's FH's in, going to be putting it on my CETME. Will take good pics if people like.

-E

[Smokehouse69]

I want one for my build, anybody got Sswee's contact info?

[Enigma Nostra]

hes here on the forum, user name Sswee. Answers PM pretty fast usually.

-E

[hunter_la5]

Will take good pics if people like.

If you can take some better pics for me, you can send them to me and I will replace my blurry one's with yours

[Enscribe]

I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to add my pics if this process. I changed my Century break a while back and replaced with the Spanish FH. I used a draw file to get it down a bit then a dremel to get the rest of the pin.
Then changed out some parts and needed more 922r so I got a Type53 IGF FH (I know it's really long, I would prefer a sswee version later). I got it cheap locally and put that on last night. My Spanish break was on there good and showed signs of rusting? I couldn't twist it off and decided to try and split it. Had to look this up to see how it's done. I ended up splitting one side off and using pliers to get a good hold on it and twist it off. I cleaned the poo out of it and treated with Barricade spray then coated with a thin layer of oil and installed the new one. The rust I think may be a result of living in the Pacific NW, with a high concentration of sea spray in the air, and me not treating it as such since I moved here. I have seen lots of my tools start to rust since I've been here.

[jdowney]

I had to bust my Century brake off like that too. Went to the trouble of removing the pin, then couldn't unscrew the brake.

What about some of that thread anti-seize stuff, its aluminum powder in some kind of grease.

[8point]

I did the dremel method. I cut clear thru on both sides where I could see all the way thru the brake. When I got to where the barrel and threads started I raised my cut to a depth just above the barrel. I made identical cuts on both sides. Once this was done I wedged a large screwdriver between the cuts on the brake itself where it was cut all the way thru. The brake spread apart about 1/4 inch or less with some hammer tapping on the screwdriver and then popped and dropped from the barrel in two pieces. I used some vise grip needle nose pliers to pull the pin out of the hole.
You just will half to take care when you are cutting the brake where it goes on the barrel not to cut past the depth of the brake or you'll cut into the barrel threads. The brake metal appears to be brittle and the thin,remaining piece you've left on the threads will pop apart when pressure is applied to separete the other end of the brake.This worked good for me but do whatever method your comfortable with.This is assuming they didn't silver solder or weld the brake to the barrel on the very end of it. The weld marks will be visible if they did that.

[Anthropy]

When I did mine, I used a cutoff wheel on its side to grind down far enough to allow the pin to wiggle loose. Then had to use a magnet to get it to come out the rest of the way.

Then took the cutoff wheel and cut through both sides above the barrel and then cut through most of the way through where the barrel was. Then used a chisel in from the end to split the break off.

I was to worried about cutting into he the barrel threads to cut to any deeper than I did.

[Anthropy]

BTW, I think the best way of getting the pin out is to use the edge of a grinding wheel and then go past where you think the pin is and grind down pretty far. Once enough material is removed the stub of the pin should fall out (that is if it is the pinned variety of muzzle doohicky).

Then do the cut and split method.

[SSwee]

I got by with grinding the weld off the top of the pin. Sucked it out with a magnet. Heated the MB with a plumbers torch and unscrewed fairly easy with a Phillips in the holes.
SS

[19Charlie_84]

I took my FAL loudener off similarly with a dremel and angle grinder. I couldnt find the welds so I just cut at the 3 and 9 all the way down to the threads. BE CAREFUL!! I barely nipped the barrel but had to so I knew how far I went. Then shove a large chisel "down the muzzle" but just bisecting the muzzle device, a few taps and it poped off with two halves. The dremel was to go thru the holes and start the channel, most of the work was with angle grinder.

[Desert Rat]

I am wanting to do mine but it definatley is welded or silver soldered, I can see the bead. What's the best way to tell before getting it all buggerd up? I'm thinking hit it with a torch once the pin is out and if after getting it to solder temps if it dosn't budge it's welded and I'll have to figure out how to fix the grinding where the pin was. Is there any better way?

[Smokehouse69]

Can you post a picture of what it looks like? I haven't seen that many CAI Cetmes, but I've never seen any of them with a welded on loudner.

[Desert Rat]

I think the picture turned out better than I thought. You can even see the scratch marks I made hoping to find out it was just a blob of paint.


http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff264/Desert_Rat1970/CAILounder.jpg

[Smokehouse69]

Yeah, that's a tack weld alright. You're going to have to cut that to get it loose. I'm not sure the best method to get it cut, I'd probably try a dremel cutoff wheel or a very sharp, small chisel.
I wonder if it is pinned on the bottom too?

[Desert Rat]

Do you think that by using the split method it would break it? I'd rather clean up a blob than be trying to cut it. Maybe if I grind the whole area down to but not into the threads it would break off. Bigger question I have now is the barrel threaded?

[wwIIBuff]

Am I the only one that likes the century break?

[Smokehouse69]

Do you think that by using the split method it would break it? I'd rather clean up a blob than be trying to cut it. Maybe if I grind the whole area down to but not into the threads it would break off. Bigger question I have now is the barrel threaded?

I'm pretty sure it is threaded, if it wasn't I think it would take more than one tack to keep it stable. The split method might be the best way to get that thing off, split it right through the center of the weld, then split it on the opposite side.
I am assuming that the tack is on the dead bottom at the 6 o'clock position. If it is then when you split it you should find the pin, if there is one. Although I doubt it was pinned and welded both, doesn't sound like something Century would take the time to do.

[Desert Rat]

I'll give it a try when I get a chance. Getting a dollhouse built by Christmas is the first priority for spare time. When I do it though
I'll be sure to document it.

[Desert Rat]

Ok, so it kept calling to me and I feel like I'm in a good spot on the house so I give it a try. After cutting both sides like the description says and splitting it with a cold chisel it came right off. I dressed up the weld with a file and put on the new FH, worked like a charm probably didn't take 20 min.

Now for the dumb question, is the snap ring supposed to fall over that collar on th barrel to lock it in place or is it a pressure type hold? It feels tight now but I'm sure when I start shooting it will probably loosen up.

[jfowl31]

That ring is only on a G3 Flashhider. G3 barrels have splines at the back of the threads that this ring clicks into to keep it from backing off. Cetme barrels don't have these splines so that ring is pointless.

[jfowl31]

Am I the only one that likes the century break?

nope... I like mine. And my Cetme shoots so well, I don't DARE touch anything on the muzzle end or the rifle. I love how noone will stand beside me when I shoot. It takes away all distractions when everyone has to stand behind you.

[Desert Rat]

The G3 was all I could find and is a temporary thing. I'd like to find a real Cetme hider but I'm thinking IGF's break might be nice to. Gonna do some shooting first before I decide. Is it ok as is or should I add a dab of locktite?

[jfowl31]

I personally would use locktite. But NOT the kind that requires heat, just enough to keep it from backing off.

And there's no harm in having a G3 FH on it, it just has an extra part that isn't used. It looks pretty much the same as a Cetme one.

If you need a good US made replica (to keep your parts count right), pm SSWEE here on the boards he makes a nice one at a good price.

[hunter_la5]

Is it ok as is or should I add a dab of locktite?

I would add a drop of the blue Loctite to the threads. My flash hider kept coming unscrewed after about 20 rounds, but a drop of loctite now keeps it in place, and I can still remove it for cleaning and whatnot easily with a padded wrench.

[joblow]

here is a shot of the pin . I am on the way with my project so I will add some photos as I go.Tape keeps you from scratching the barrel .Step one use a bunch of wd-40 and soak the tip in a cup for a day or two

[joblow]

After some more grinding and hitting the break with a hammer the pin falls out .More wd-40 in the hole.

I tried the big fat fingers before I got too crazy and off comes the break .

Now on with a flash hidder and this part of my project is done.
I think Perro would be proud I love you wd 40 that is.

[kmagnuss]

nope... I like mine. And my Cetme shoots so well, I don't DARE touch anything on the muzzle end or the rifle. I love how noone will stand beside me when I shoot. It takes away all distractions when everyone has to stand behind you.

Agreed. I wish I wouldn't have taken mine off.

[SSwee]

Agreed. I wish I wouldn't have taken mine off.

I have several if you want to put one back on.
SS

[kmagnuss]

Are they free? Because I have about 18 cents to my name right now. :)

[SSwee]

I barter for sure.
SS

[FullAssault]

I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to add my pics if this process. I changed my Century break a while back and replaced with the Spanish FH. I used a draw file to get it down a bit then a dremel to get the rest of the pin.
Then changed out some parts and needed more 922r so I got a Type53 IGF FH (I know it's really long, I would prefer a sswee version later). I got it cheap locally and put that on last night. My Spanish break was on there good and showed signs of rusting? I couldn't twist it off and decided to try and split it. Had to look this up to see how it's done. I ended up splitting one side off and using pliers to get a good hold on it and twist it off. I cleaned the poo out of it and treated with Barricade spray then coated with a thin layer of oil and installed the new one. The rust I think may be a result of living in the Pacific NW, with a high concentration of sea spray in the air, and me not treating it as such since I moved here. I have seen lots of my tools start to rust since I've been here. Do you know where the ones with the flashhider are pinned/welded?

[Enscribe]

I think the Cetme's with the FH aren't pinned or welded. Century started using them after the ban expired so there was no need to pin them. If you have the Loudener it is at 6'oclock.

[FullAssault]

mine has the flash hider but it's not moving! I can't find any welds or pins.

[PX4Storm]

Get some PB Blaster(yellow lid stuff), soak it down several times, and tap it with a hammer each time. That stuff works miracles on stuck parts. I am wanting to take mine off too if it isn't soldered or pinned on. Let me know if you get yours off.

[FullAssault]

I got another Cetme now but the FH is not moving on it either. I'll give the PB Blaster a try.

[Evilblackgunsrfun]

PB blaster is some great stuff, it will free up rusted bolts or nuts that you would think would never turn. also on the muzzle brake, if you have a brass mallet and a oak block of wood, hit around the brake a few times,on solid part of brake, turning gun ,hit brake, turn,hit, if you do this acoulpe times it may help free it up,the brass mallet and oak block wont hurt brake, then use alittle heat
i think century uses a air impact to run these on to the barrel and they get extra tight from the hammering(monkey keeps pulling trigger cause he thinks the rat,tat,tat is a cool sound) , if you ever had a tire shop change your tires and over tighten your lug nuts with a air impact and you have to strain to get lug nuts back off, they either come loose,strip,or it breaks stud off , its kinda seems like its the same with the threaded on century muzzle brakes, they seem overtightened like on the verge of pulling the threads

[KMURPHY]

Kroil works great too. "The oil that creeps" if I remember what the can says correctly.

[MasterGunner]

If you have a rusted part or one that's not wanting to come off. then Kroil or Aero Kroil is your ticket. Kroil (Aero Kroil) is a super-penetrating oil that eats through corrosion and works its way into threads.

For stubborn rust-frozen parts, heat the joint with a torch until they are very hot and apply the Kroil (Aero Kroil) to the threaded joint. The heat will burn-off the penetrant at first, but as the parts cool down, the penetrant is drawn into the threads by capillary action. Let the parts stand for about an hour and try to unscrew the frozen parts again. If the Kroil (Aerokroil) hasn't done its job, heat the parts again, and apply the penetrant liberally. Let stand overnight. Usually, the frozen parts will come apart the next day. If not try again. The longest I've had to do the thermal shock/Kroil treatment is three days. At the end of three days, the most heavily rusted, frozen parts were freed up and came apart.

Go to: http://www.kanolabs.com/ .

[GMACK]

Thanks to everyones input I just got done removing the brake from my CAI. Once I finally got the pin out using a dremel tool, files and a chisel and spray kroil on the brake it twisted right off.

[joe8747p]

I am glad to see others here did not have to go through the rodeo that I did in taking that accursed loudner off.........

I cut my loudner off on both sides with a dremel and used a chisel to break it off. Too bad it snapped off leaving the bottom part still firmly attached to the muzzle :eek:

Then I tried to use PB blaster to get it off. Three days of spraying it down and it still would not budge.

Then I used a propane torch to heat the part off and then use my new harbor freight vice to twist it off. All I managed to do was break my new vice.....:eek:

So two weeks later, I found a monkey wrench ;)

Not wanting to break the new new vice, I put my CETME on my couch and then sat on it. Then I applied the monkey wrench. And applied, and applied, until it finally started to move. :rockon:

That dammed thing finally came off, and when I began to check the threads, none of the PB blaster got to the threads. It did make a nice ring of gunk under the loudner however... :wink:

I then cleaned and dried the threads and used some red loctite and put on the flash supressor I got from here from sswee(?).


I guess the moral of the story is the butt is mighiter than the vice??? :icon_biggrin:

[Noskov]

I like the loudener but wish it could mount the bayonet.

[jdowney]

I guess the moral of the story is the butt is mighiter than the vice??? :icon_biggrin:

If its a Horrible Fright vise, then yes, the butt is definitely mightier :D:D:D

[Silvera]

Why not just mill the existing holes out at a bigger size and angled to the front? It would reduce the back pressure, lessen the noise, and act "compensating" at the same time....plus it would look trick..... I may try it and post pics after I do some measurements and some brain work....

[cfish]

Silvera, a lot of folks want the original FH on their guns for the correct look. SSwee, one of our members here, makes a USA made FH that is a knock off of the original and it complies with the 922r parts count for imports. The after market import loudners, are mostly pinned and silver soldered on. The Muzzel break/loudners aren't very effective at breaking and don't allow the Baayonets to sit tightly on their guns.

[M1 Tanker]

+1 to cfish...I wanted mine to look as issued.

[Silvera]

Cool, but I just want mine to shoot!! LOL!!

[cfish]

Does it not shoot???

[Silvera]

OH YEAH, it shoots fine....i'm getting about 3" at 100 with the open sights, it shoots like a battle rifle should shoot, I just don't see changing the MB/FH if it can be made better other than for making it look original. For me, it is the gate gun I will use it for.....

Just want to mount a base and some glass on it

[jdowney]

I didn't notice any more recoil switching from the MB to Sswee's FH, so I don't see any reason to keep the MB...

I believe it did correct my windage problem though, that's one good reason to remove any CAI parts possible, they were not made with the best of care.

I think most of the motivation for us though is just the irrepressible human urge to tinker... take a perfectly serviceable machine, and a certain proportion of the population just can't resist ripping it apart to see how it works and if it can be made better... I think that's basically why we have cars, computers, airplanes, and all these guns we like to mess with, its really what drives progress :D

[SSwee]

One thing that started me wanting to change out the MB for a FH besides appearance was tired of having to check for dead limbs overhead when shooting from under a tree. I got limbed several times but then this is scrub brush country.
SS

[FullAssault]

I got my flash hider off by wrapping the hider in a cloth and using pliers to turn it. I'm pretty sure this is not a new US made barrel like CAI claims. It has great rifling , it's crome lined and still has some of the finish under where the hider was...

[mdntepoet]

I haven't tried this on a cetme, but i've used this technique on a TON of stuck threads, bolts, a/c lines and a barrel or two in my life.

For those "just won't budge" threads, heat the end of it (farthest from the barrel as possible) with an ordinary propane torch. Take a plain wax, unscented candle, and melt it around the joint between the barrel and the hider/brake.

The wax by nature weeps right up the hot part, following the now expanded threads, liquid was gets into threads penetrating oils have failed to reach for me before.

As it is cooling, apply pressure.. the wax also acts as a heat barrier, so the barrel "heat sinks" away, while the hider stays hot.. with only mild pressure from a bar slid through the holes it will usually pop loose then wind off rather easily on the wax coating.

If any of you try it on this particular application, let us know how it works for you!

[madmax0027]

Have a C-91 with the CAI brake on it. Used Dremel and ground brake down to pin. Pin was down to the INSIDE of barrel. By the time I got the pin out, I had a 1/16th size hole in my barrel and about a 1/3rd dime size section of my barrel gone. The new flash hidder covers the hole and gap. I also used metal patch to feel the void. Hope the barrel does not crack or even blow up when I shoot it. Any thoughts would be great.

[SLiP]

I don't know, Madmax, but that sure doesn't sound safe to me. Methinks you may have to cut the barrel and rethread. Better check with the more knowledgeable guys around here first.

For me my C93 MB will not budge. Not a big deal reason to remove it, but my HK91 easily screws off and this one won't budge. Did they silver solder it on? WTH?

[madmax0027]

Shot it! 1st shot, shot the metal patch out from under the new MB. Shot 60 more rounds!!! No damage to new MB and no new damage to the barrel. P.S. even after beating it up it still shot a 2 inch group at 100YRDS. I don't think I am going to touch it. It's good as is.

[BlackJack]

OK...long time lurker first post..

In case it hasn't been covered here...I replaced my MNID (Muzzle Noise Intensification Device) with a more original Flash hider. My Century was both tack-welded at the six 'oclock, and pinned in the usual place. Why century decided to do both is beyond me, but figured I would post that finding for anyone who , like me" beleived that if it was welded they wouldn't have to deal with the pin.