View Full Version : FTE problem
nevada
10-08-2007, 03:03 PM
I went shooting this morning to test my magazines and rifle for reliability. I loaded 5 rounds into a Ceme mag and slow fired at a target. Iwent though 4 Cetme mags and one HK mag this way with no problems. Then the third case failed to get thrown out. The bolt had gone far enough back to pick up another cartridge. I tried abother mag and it happened on the second round and then the first round would not eject. The cases stayed in the area above the mag and jammed the gun when the bolt went forward. My claw is still on the bolt, but it mooved real easy like the spring is shot. I'm getting nice stripes on the cases from the flutes. The gun never got really hot. Could a loose claw spring be the problem?
rpmfly2
10-08-2007, 03:17 PM
I went shooting this morning to test my magazines and rifle for reliability. I loaded 5 rounds into a Ceme mag and slow fired at a target. Iwent though 4 Cetme mags and one HK mag this way with no problems. Then the third case failed to get thrown out. The bolt had gone far enough back to pick up another cartridge. I tried abother mag and it happened on the second round and then the first round would not eject. The cases stayed in the area above the mag and jammed the gun when the bolt went forward. My claw is still on the bolt, but it mooved real easy like the spring is shot. I'm getting nice stripes on the cases from the flutes. The gun never got really hot. Could a loose claw spring be the problem?
1. It really sounds like a dirty chamber problem! I had a friend and I both at the range yesterday. He forgot to clean his FA HK91 SA copy from the last time at the range and he had the same problem. Cleaned the rifle and problem solved! Make sure you are thorough with all your cleaning! The chamber and barrel may look clean and they are not!
2. Check the mags to make sure they fit snug in the magwell. There are repairs located on the forum for that, I do not have them as a link for you though. My friend also had a FE/FL or dual jam problem with a fiber magazine that fit loose also on Sunday! He was dirty and loose! Not a good combination! Pardon the pun!:thumbup: By the way, all my 5round mags need work because they are loose and I am waiting for the time to do a good job on the diagnosis!
3. Extractors and springs are always a problem due to aging and wear. they should be replaced on an as need basis! You have to do some trial and error to find the problem I am sure you already know! just do not take the shotgun approach and due several things at once! You may never know what the actual solution and problem is that way!
Do a FE search and there is a wealth of information!
Let us know so we all can learn from your experiences!
bspring
10-08-2007, 03:34 PM
+1 clean the chamber. A G3 extractor and spring can be had from Robertrtg.com. Also get a G3 recoil spring...agout 20% stiffer than stock. Ejector may not ride high enough up inside the bolt head, shimming th front of the pack may help.
Bill
nevada
10-08-2007, 03:40 PM
I thought of a dirty chamber, but if these aren't reliable after only 80 -100 rounds of shooting, they aren't worth having. I know they are works in progrees, though. I'm going to try a new spring for the extractor claw. I'm shooting SA, by the way. Thanks.
rpmfly2
10-08-2007, 03:57 PM
+1 clean the chamber. A G3 extractor and spring can be had from Robertrtg.com. Also get a G3 recoil spring...agout 20% stiffer than stock. Ejector may not ride high enough up inside the bolt head, shimming th front of the pack may help.
Bill
I forgot about that also!
I am trouble free since I read the section with all the things to check and just made sure when I built mine that I had all my bases covered!:thumbup:
Mine has opperated flawlessly and people are even recommending me if they have problems at the range with their HK and CETME's!
It kinda cuts into my shooting time but I try to help when I can!
jfowl31
10-08-2007, 04:51 PM
If you got good "stripes" on the case, your chamber is fine.
I think you found your probem when you found the loose extractor spring (what you called the "claw").
I would change that spring and extractor, and while you're at it, check the ejector to make sure its riding high enough in the groove under the bolt/carrier to eject cases every time. If its riding too low, makarov.com sells new ejectors, but it sounds to me the problem lies in your extractor.
If the action was worked hard enough that it came back and picked up another round, the chamber is not dirty, and the case should have ejected UNLESS:
1. The extractor lost its hold of the case before making it all the way back to the ejector or...
2. The extractor held on to the case, but the ejector rode underneath the fired case, and didnt forcefully eject it out the ejection port leaving it inside the receiver to get jammed.
oneshot
10-08-2007, 04:53 PM
Come on guys, I have shot over 100 rounds without a problem with ejection. These rifles are suppose to be reliable even when dirty. I "neglected" to clean my rifle after a particularly long range session and then took it out a week later without cleaning it and still never had a problem with ejection.
rustypirate
10-08-2007, 05:02 PM
This sounds like a prime example of a trigger pack that needs to be shimmed.
It works fine until the trigger pack works loose at the front and drops too far for the ejector to catch the brass, then no ejection.
The brass sounds like it is extracting just fine, and remember the video that Perro shot of a CETME extractiing rounds with no extractor installed at all?
jfowl31
10-08-2007, 05:09 PM
I agree Rusty that it is extracting fine, but getting out of the chamber and getting back to the ejector are 2 differnt things. the extractor has to hold onto that case after it gets outta the chamber to let the ejector smack the crap outta it.
If his extractor is loose enough that he can easily move it with his finger, it needs replacement. But, if he hadn't mentioned it was loose, I'd 100% agree that its an ejector issue... meaning either shimming the trigger pack or buying an unground ejector if century bent or ground the ejector as they often did.
nevada
10-08-2007, 09:28 PM
The trigger pack was the first thing I thought of, but it won't go any higher. I have .22 extractors that are harder to move than the one on the Cetme. The ejector has been 'tuned' also.
This started as a test of a sloppy mag fix. The front mag stops were lower than the rear stops. I put some JB Weld in the front stops, then started filing the next day until the mag just snapped in. No play at all. It forces the rear of the mag up. I know it looks sloppy, but I have enough mags to play with and paint covers many sins. Thanks for all the replies. I'll let you know the results.
nevada
10-08-2007, 09:58 PM
I took the bolt head off and pulled that 'spring' out. It's broken. The extractor was just flopping around. RTG will get an order tomorrow.
jfowl31
10-09-2007, 06:12 AM
Glad to hear you indeed found the problem.
nowhereman
10-31-2007, 05:42 AM
I agree Rusty that it is extracting fine, but getting out of the chamber and getting back to the ejector are 2 differnt things. the extractor has to hold onto that case after it gets outta the chamber to let the ejector smack the crap outta it.
If his extractor is loose enough that he can easily move it with his finger, it needs replacement. But, if he hadn't mentioned it was loose, I'd 100% agree that its an ejector issue... meaning either shimming the trigger pack or buying an unground ejector if century bent or ground the ejector as they often did.
How do you shim a trigger pack?
jfowl31
10-31-2007, 11:23 AM
most common way I've seen was to put some JB weld on the shelf behind the magwell that the trigger pack mates to and file it down until the ejector is riding in just the rifle spot.
nowhereman
10-31-2007, 03:03 PM
most common way I've seen was to put some JB weld on the shelf behind the magwell that the trigger pack mates to and file it down until the ejector is riding in just the rifle spot.
Bought a new bolt carrier assembly from RTG. Put the new locking piece and bolt head in. Bolt gap was already in spec .005 to .006 but I wanted to get the extra parts anyway. Had a new bolt gap of .011 to .012 w/ the new pieces. Took it to the range and bang, bang, bang, stovepipe. I noticed it tried to feed the next round with the stovepipe. Cleared it, bang, bang, bang, stovepipe. Same thing. Switched back to old bolthead. Bang, bang, bang, bang, bang, bang. Ooops out of ammo. What is the deal w/ the new bolt head and why is it not working. Check the ejector w/ both boltheads watching it as I slow cock the rifle. It feeds the same way through the channel in both boltheads, rides tight under both. The extractors are tight and look pretty much about the same. Oh yeah after 50 rnds w/ new pieces back down to .006 boltgap. Called Century and the head of customer rep is going to take it too the shop personally. She said to write a note w/ my rifle when I send it. I told her that I had already done that before and I'm pretty sure it did not get read. 3rd time back to Century. I'll bet its going to play broken car when it gets there. They'll probably shoot a couple of rounds out of it and not find the problem..........D@MM#T JUST WORK you overpriced blakety blank!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
jfowl31
10-31-2007, 03:11 PM
If you're stovepiping, the issue has to lie somewhere either in the extractor or ejector.
since the old bolt head doesn't stovepipe, swap out the extractors.
see what kind of side to sid eplay you have with the ejector as well, and personally, I would just buy a new ejector from makarov.com... they arent too pricey, and that way you can eliminate that completely.
when the extractor and ejector are working right, and the bolt gap is within spec, the Cetme will chunk cases a LONG way. If its not chunking them 20'+ every time, somethings up.
nowhereman
10-31-2007, 03:26 PM
If you're stovepiping, the issue has to lie somewhere either in the extractor or ejector.
since the old bolt head doesn't stovepipe, swap out the extractors.
see what kind of side to sid eplay you have with the ejector as well, and personally, I would just buy a new ejector from makarov.com... they arent too pricey, and that way you can eliminate that completely.
when the extractor and ejector are working right, and the bolt gap is within spec, the Cetme will chunk cases a LONG way. If its not chunking them 20'+ every time, somethings up.
I don't see any difference in the way the extractor or ejector is working. I highly suspect the extractor is the issue w/ the new bolt head. I looks the same no flaws and has the same tension as the old one. I will try swapping extractors though. It just can't be that finite of a problem. 450 rnds w/ old bolthead zero problems new bolthead and locking piece FTE every 4th 5th rnd. Replace old bolthead bang bang bang no problem. How can these rifles be that picky?
drine
10-31-2007, 03:48 PM
Was this issue sorta referred to in another post? I'm talking about the new bolt head with +4 rollers. If so the timing may off. That'could explain why your old parts work better. Sorry if I'm thinking of the wrong post.
nowhereman
10-31-2007, 05:11 PM
Was this issue sorta referred to in another post? I'm talking about the new bolt head with +4 rollers. If so the timing may off. That'could explain why your old parts work better. Sorry if I'm thinking of the wrong post.
How do you mean timing. I have added +4 rollers to my old bolthead before and didn't experience to problem. Timing refering to when the ejector comes in contact w/ the casing. Does Century shave some off the end of the ejector? The very end looks like it may have been cut some.
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