CETME muzzle brake removal?

[dpatrick]

I managed to remove the pin beneath the CAI muzzle brake on my CETME but the brake is being very stubborn. Before I use more force and perhaps a little heat, can anyone tell me what to expect? Is this CAI brake threaded on? Pressed? If threaded, will I find original CETME muzzle thread or something else? Of course I'm hopeful that I'll be able to thread an original CETME flash hider right on but something tells me it's not going to be that easy. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks.

[SSwee]

As the story goes. Threaded, pinned and soldered but not always. PIA for sure.
SS

[Rampager]

Maybe try putting a long thin screwdriver through the MB's holes and turn it that way. That or assuming you won't be reusing the MB you could use a pipe wrench.

Hopefully you don't have one of the Century US made barrels with the odd size thread cause the Cetme FH won't thread onto it.

BTW, there was a guy making custom sized FH'ers for the Cetme (US made too) just before the site went down.

[SSwee]

That is me on the FH's. I'll get them back on shortly.
SS

[the_weasel]

Even after I removed the pin at 6:00 I had to cut mine off with Mr. Dremel... Mr. Dremel is your friend.

[rustypirate]

The trick to removal of the muzzle break is to use cutting wheels in a dremel or other similar tool, and slice the break along the sides following the holes for the whole length.

Be sure not to cut too deep as this will cut into the barrel underneath.

After cutting along bolth sides, use a large screwdriver or chisel and drive it into the cuts to spread the two halves apart.

then the break should turn right off.

[Seattlefungus]

I seem to remember Perro on the old site said to just crank it with a wrench and the pin and solder just pop's and frees it from the muzzle.

[rustypirate]

You can do whatever you fancy, but splitting it always worked for me.

[hunter_la5]

what's the best way to go about getting the pin out?
im about to replace my CAI loudener with one of SSwee's FHs, but now the "how to" thread for muzzle brake removal has been obliterated...

[the_weasel]

You can do whatever you fancy, but splitting it always worked for me.


+1 sir. Worked for me as well.

[Hoot]

what's the best way to go about getting the pin out?
im about to replace my CAI loudener with one of SSwee's FHs, but now the "how to" thread for muzzle brake removal has been obliterated...

When I was trying to get mine off, it wasn't soldered, but with the pin out, it wouldn't budge, heat or no heat. I did the dremel cut and split. Went easier that I thought it would.

After grinding away the brake to reveal the pin, I could not get ahold of it for nothing to pull it out. I finally took a flat ended punch pin, put a micro-dot of super glue on the end of it, pressed it to the exposed end of the pin and let it set up. Once it was set, I pulled on it and the pin came out with little to no resistance. It was just a matter of getting ahold of it with something.

[Heath_h49008]

What is the thread diameter and pitch under the muzzle brake? Assuming it's a factory CETME/G3 barrel, of course.

[rustypirate]

15mmX1 RH

[cimmaronkid]

Highly recommend Rusty's way of doing it. If it has been soldered on, there can be a multitude of problems created by just trying to crank it off. As to the pin removal, it should just drop out in a lot of cases after the flash hider has been removed. If it doesn't, then dress it down flush with the barrel. Make sure that the pin has not been drilled too deep and that it goes into the bore. If it does go into the bore, then you will have to cut the barrel and have it recrowned.

[SSwee]

How many grooves/lands does it have?
4/4 have been original unless they were recut.
SS

[rustypirate]

I have one CAI3 with a US made 8 land and groove barrel with the standard 15mm threads on it, so just because it is a US barrel does not mean that the threads are not 15mm.

[SSwee]

True and thanks for bringing it up rustypirate. My train of thought was if it was an import barrel it should be 15 x 1 unless it had been recut. If the OD threads are measured 15mm is just under .591" and 9/16" is just under .5625".
SS

[RaccoonRough]

I am in the same situation. I was hoping that when the time came I could just use all the knowledge that was posted on the old site. Now........well I guess you cant take anything for granted.

I have a Century CETME that was produced in 2002. I want to take the POS FH off and replace it with an original as well. I am wondering the same IS IT GOING TO FIT? Keep us posted on your progress.

And...thanks to all of you who are out there willing to help us with your knowledge and experience.

RR

[Hoot]

I am in the same situation. I was hoping that when the time came I could just use all the knowledge that was posted on the old site. Now........well I guess you cant take anything for granted.

I have a Century CETME that was produced in 2002. I want to take the POS FH off and replace it with an original as well. I am wondering the same IS IT GOING TO FIT? Keep us posted on your progress.

And...thanks to all of you who are out there willing to help us with your knowledge and experience.

RR

That's the year mine was made and it had the standard 15x1 RH thread under the brake.

Hoot

[RaccoonRough]

Does that mean that an original FH should work?

Thanks Hoot.

RR

[Hoot]

Does that mean that an original FH should work?

Thanks Hoot.

RR

Yes, it does, but it may upset your compliance parts count. I believe IGF makes one that looks exactly like the original, but is US Made. One of our members has made some recently, obviously US Made also and is offering some for sale with the proceeds going to the costs of converting the new forum. See the thread in the For Sale forum, entitled Bake Sale. Quite a few members are donating stuff they have laying around for sale with the proceeds going to help defray the cost of switching from cetmerifles to militaryfirearm.com.

Hoot

[hunter_la5]

I believe IGF makes one that looks exactly like the original, but is US Made.

last time i checked, IGF was still out of stock, and they have been "about to get more" since august. PM SSwee, he is making them and they look pretty good. I just ordered one

[Rampager]

On the pin removal...if you grind enough off, sometimes you can hit the top of the MB with a hammer at 12 o'clock and it will slowly drive the pin (at 6 o'clock) downward and out.

[dpatrick]

OK. I'm confident I can get the CAI brake off one way or another, but what will I find? Anybody know? Threads or what? Planning on doing this little job Tuesday. Thanks.

[Rampager]

All the CAI MB's I've seen were threaded. Just hope it's standard size (15x1) otherwise you'll need a custom one made up. At least you have that option now with SSwee...his FH'ers look very nice BTW. When I did mine there wasn't any option other than to send my gun away, have it cut, crowned and re-threaded in 15x1.

[Darkwatch]

I have the Century Loudner on mine(and it's all fine and in working order) I would love to put the original CETME FH on it(I have one and I don't have to worry about parts count I have us made plastic) but man what a project for what comes down to looks! If it ain't broke don't fix it:rolleyes: . Just seems like too much trouble to save a 1/4 of an inch on overall length and to make it a bit quieter for the people at the range...? Just my 1/2 cent.

[Hoot]

OK. I'm confident I can get the CAI brake off one way or another, but what will I find? Anybody know? Threads or what? Planning on doing this little job Tuesday. Thanks.

I'm betting that like me, you'll find threads with remnants in them like old spray paint. Scrub the remnants out with a detail brush and some potent solvent and you're all set. Go slow with the dremel as you cut the sections between the holes. No need to go all the way through. I left a few mils of metal at the bottom of each slot. When I tapped the chisel into the slots, they popped the last of the metal like tin foil. Since there is no turning back on the original brake once you start cutting, I recommend first hacksawing it off just pat the end of the muzzle. Slot all the way down one side connecting the holes and then the other. She'll pop when you whack the spreading chisel quite easily. Once the death grip is broken, put the oil to it and it'll screw off with little effort. If you have a nut splitter, that'll work also in case your nervous about wielding a chisel.

Hoot

[dpatrick]

Thanks guys for all the input. I used the "destructive method" and was able to remove the CAI muzzle brake. I was delighted to discover that the threads (and barrel, I guess) are original and the flash hider that I acquired in a kit goes right on. Now how to stay in parts count compliance, perhaps Thermold mag... how to fix the hider (threadlock?). Phase 2 coming up... restoring the grenade launcher attachment rings. I have considered posting a new thread with pictures showing my (our) muzzle brake removal procedure. Sounds like you already know how to do it though. Thanks again.

[Hoot]

I use a small nitrile o-ring for the flash hider, or in my case muzzle brake, to tighten up against. Just push it over the muzzle and up to where the larger diameter part of the barrel is. It's rubbery nature provides friction to keep it from unscrewing accidentally. Any hardware store carries them.

Hoot

[tomoshenko]

I was wondering if after the dremel cuts are made along the vent holes we
could get some of the "JackAss" crew to attempt to shoot off the remnants
instead of forcing with a chisel.
Some movie scene rights might be a good way of raising money for the new site...Just a thought....:)

[hunter_la5]

what's the best way to go about getting the pin out?

I just started the process of replacing my brake with a FH, and i had a heck of a time trying to get that pin out. after a bunch of failed attempts, it dawned on me: just use a magnet to pull it out.

and of course, i put a magnet right on top of the pin, and pulled it out with no resistance or effort whatsoever. :1087:

now, to get that brake off... its being rather stubborn, even without the pin in it....