I made a tank

[Private Fuzzy]

Well, technically a self-propelled artillery piece, but oh well. The damn tracks took forever.

'Hummel', Sd.Kfz. 165
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/Loco_Bob/DSCF1189.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/Loco_Bob/DSCF1191.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/Loco_Bob/DSCF1197.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/Loco_Bob/DSCF1199.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/Loco_Bob/DSCF1201.jpg
http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b360/Loco_Bob/DSCF1203.jpg

[omerta123]

nice! theres this hobby shop down the street and you just inspired me to go and get another one i haven't built a model in a while. its a good time really relaxing and fun

[wandering_ronin]

Nice build. I have 5 or 6 in my closet that need to be assembled. I haven't built a kit in years, but I caught a sale at one of the local shops, and picked up some armor kits for like $5 each. After seeing what kits go for these days, I could not pass them up.

[nevada]

Nice, but it looks like some punk kids 'tagged' it. (JK)

[vair65]

Very cool, when I was a kid, I had enough Funny Cars, TF Dragsters and Pro Stocks built to sponser a mini Indy Nationals. Never built anything military but seeing that I think I'm going to find something, nice build.

[Optimus Prime]

looks pretty good, now you need a crew...

[jettag]

this old timer who sold me his LUGER and his M'34 Berreta for $60.00!, plus he gave me a huge box of 20 or so vintage models , and a very cool retro style kitchen table...all for SIXTY BUCKS!

I used the models than did not turn out like I wanted em to for target practice with the pistols in an epic battle WWII style!!!!

My son and I started modeling together now...

[Private Fuzzy]

Nice, but it looks like some punk kids 'tagged' it. (JK)

This is my first model so I went kind of lazy with the camo.

[SteelCore]

There are some easy techniques you can do also to enhance the look of your armor builds. Look up the techniquesr called "Washing" and "Dry brushing"

They are both shading techniques that are easy to learn and will really enhance the details of your kit.

A quick overview.

Washing:
This technique enables you to bring out all the little rivet heads, cables, cracks, and other details on a model after you paint the model with the base color.
You wanna water down a darker color than you're base coat to get washes to show up. (Example: Tank is grey, use a wash of darker grey or black)
A wash is a watered down color that allows you to paint a transparent layer that will 'pile up' paint in the high relief (i.e., the deep cracks and crannies) areas of the model.

If your'e using acrylics (water soluble) water down some brown to brush heavily on the tracks---gives it that sunk in mud look. add some red to that, an you can get a rusty look to metal plates, a line down from rivets , etc. If you're using testors (oilbased,) use turpentine to water down your color.

Drybrushing:
THis is almost the opposite of washing. In this techniques, you are trying to add highlights to the topmost areas of the model's relief. this enables you to bring out the edgges and highlights of a model, inlcuding adding light effects.

You wanna use a slightly lighter color than you're base coat to get dry brushing to show up. (Example: Tank is grey, use a lighter grey or white). successive dry brushing with lighter and lighter touches and colors will enhance the edges even more.

For this techniques, you get paint on your brush, then dab the brush on a paper towel..the object is to take the fluid (the watery vehicle for the pigment) out of the paint, whil still keeping the pigment of the paint on the brush. Theis will make the brush look and feel 'dry' or tacky, while still holding paint on the brush. Youthen lightly drag the 'dry'brush across the high points of the model.

Armor Drybrush tip: Many armors are made of metal, and the edges get the paint worked off of them rather quickly. To simulate 'field wear' on a tan;s armor plate, dry-brush silver on the edges..

Armor wash tip: If you use the drybrush tip, use the rusty water wash in conjunction to add another look of wear.

YES, you can use these techniques i conjunction. you can use a wash, then drybrush, then use a wash layer to tone down the definition of the rypbruahs laye, etc etc etc...


DUDE...if you try these techniques, I guarantee that you could win modelling contests....I have

[wandering_ronin]

Check out armorama.com. All kinds of tips and techniques there, as well as, some inspiring builds.

[Private Fuzzy]

There are some easy techniques you can do also to enhance the look of your armor builds. Look up the techniquesr called "Washing" and "Dry brushing"

They are both shading techniques that are easy to learn and will really enhance the details of your kit.

A quick overview.

Washing:
This technique enables you to bring out all the little rivet heads, cables, cracks, and other details on a model after you paint the model with the base color.
You wanna water down a darker color than you're base coat to get washes to show up. (Example: Tank is grey, use a wash of darker grey or black)
A wash is a watered down color that allows you to paint a transparent layer that will 'pile up' paint in the high relief (i.e., the deep cracks and crannies) areas of the model.

If your'e using acrylics (water soluble) water down some brown to brush heavily on the tracks---gives it that sunk in mud look. add some red to that, an you can get a rusty look to metal plates, a line down from rivets , etc. If you're using testors (oilbased,) use turpentine to water down your color.

Drybrushing:
THis is almost the opposite of washing. In this techniques, you are trying to add highlights to the topmost areas of the model's relief. this enables you to bring out the edgges and highlights of a model, inlcuding adding light effects.

You wanna use a slightly lighter color than you're base coat to get dry brushing to show up. (Example: Tank is grey, use a lighter grey or white). successive dry brushing with lighter and lighter touches and colors will enhance the edges even more.

For this techniques, you get paint on your brush, then dab the brush on a paper towel..the object is to take the fluid (the watery vehicle for the pigment) out of the paint, whil still keeping the pigment of the paint on the brush. Theis will make the brush look and feel 'dry' or tacky, while still holding paint on the brush. Youthen lightly drag the 'dry'brush across the high points of the model.

Armor Drybrush tip: Many armors are made of metal, and the edges get the paint worked off of them rather quickly. To simulate 'field wear' on a tan;s armor plate, dry-brush silver on the edges..

Armor wash tip: If you use the drybrush tip, use the rusty water wash in conjunction to add another look of wear.

YES, you can use these techniques i conjunction. you can use a wash, then drybrush, then use a wash layer to tone down the definition of the rypbruahs laye, etc etc etc...


DUDE...if you try these techniques, I guarantee that you could win modelling contests....I have

That all sounds awesome man. I will definitely use this next time. Do you have any pictures you show for example? Thanks.:thumbup:

[-COK-]

cant get a better pic to load....

[Private Fuzzy]

cant get a better pic to load....

Now that is sexy.:scarface:

[SteelCore]

http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/images/plastic_model_pix/tamiya/35265.jpg

Note how the packs and bags look. The guy painted them a base color, then added some black to the color for the watery wash coat, then he took the base color and added a bit of white or off white to it to drybrush it.

Note how the tan base coat armor looks. he then wahsed the armor with a warm brown wash, so the brown would stick in the cracks and look like dust/dirt (or shadows). he then made the high edges 'pop' by dry brushing a lighter tan on the raised edges.

drybrushing will wreck a brush pretty quick, so dedicate a brush to drybrushing.

He also washed the drybrushed the tracks to give them some definition.

Check out in the pic below how well the rivets show up with a simple wash/drybrush
http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/images/plastic_model_pix/tamiya/35255.jpg
He even added a little grey drybrushing to the muzzle of the cannon brake to give it that 'used' look.

And washing and drybrshing made the details on this monochromatic tank color scheme really pop. he even used his washes to give it a 'mottled' look.
http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/images/plastic_model_pix/tamiya/35248.jpg
Note that he rybrushed the dark treads with a bit of silver to give them that 'used' look.

To get such a great effect on this last tank, I am certain thre are multiple wash and drybrush layers. the more you add, the more natural the shadows and highlight transitions become.

You've alredy done the hard part--building a clean, sprue-free and well glued model. the rest is just a bit of paintbrush magic.

Again--great first build!

--ETA---
Here's a model with a nice dusty/dried mud effect done with washes and a bit of complimentary drybrushing.
http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/images/plastic_model_pix/tamiya/35097.jpg

[Optimus Prime]

I should get a few pics of some of my models... they're all pretty much SciFi wargaming stuff though, Warhammer 40,000 for those of you how are into that kind of stuff. Just converted and painted a Scout Sergeant for my Angels of Vengeance Space Marines this morning...

[SteelCore]

I was a huge 40K wargamer (did some battletech too). I still have some space marine units, with some armored vehicles. I have a frw troupes of Eldar, the Harlequin units inlcuded.

I also have some of the epic scale stuff.
My bro was a space orcs player. He could filed about 10 times more orcs than I could eldar...hith thought was lo-tek= more guns on the field for less.

Still, I find no one ever thinks to pack web solvent...and eldar use webbers a bunch...

[Norton]

Here are a few of mine I built in the 1980s. They are missing a few pieces but you can see the weathering. The US tanks are supposed to be pre war LEE and Stuart. The others are German Pwzk 2, 3, and Panther/Jagpanther from 1941 to 1944. The last is a French S 35 in Oran Africa circa 1942. I was really into it then.

[Player]

here's a couple i had put together ages ago, but never had time to put it into a diarama

[SteelCore]

"you can see the weathering"
-->Indeed, and the fuzzy dust-bunny turret cover...;) (J/K) :)
Norton, get some canned air and blow the dust off those. They might need a baby wipe after that. Good models and painting, just a bit dusty.

THis is where I say to put yer models in storage in shoe boxes or diplay in closed curio cabinets to avoid dust.

[XO3319]

Nicely done

but as an artilleryman that track commander would get a dressing down for poor ammo handling (j/k)

[XO3319]

Wow...great models:America: