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SSwee
05-08-2008, 09:13 PM
I've seen posts talking about it but can't find squat when I want to. Where is the best place to buy a K98. I am looking at Aim right now. I had bought some rifles at Military Guns in DFW with good luck but saw where a few of you had problems or gotten low quality goods. Appreciate the assist on this.
SS

cfish
05-08-2008, 09:28 PM
I don't know if you are looking to spend what Mitchell is asking these days but they still have decent k98's. I think there in the 300 range right now.

metrotps
05-08-2008, 09:32 PM
Go look on Surplusrifleforum.com there are several for sale

SSwee
05-08-2008, 09:34 PM
Got a web address?
I found quite a bit on Mitchell mausers but not a for sale site,
SS

nowhereman
05-08-2008, 09:35 PM
I got mine in person for $290. It is a Russian capture w/o locking screws. Bore is in descent shape. I didn't want to order mine b/c I would rather inpect it first.

metrotps
05-08-2008, 09:38 PM
1: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=55141
2: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=53626
3: http://www.surplusrifleforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=55044

k98k792
05-08-2008, 10:11 PM
http://www.classicarms.us/

dpoe
05-08-2008, 10:43 PM
the ARFCOM store has some too I believe.

dpoe
05-08-2008, 10:45 PM
or.... the Austin SAXET show is this weekend, there are always some there. I'll be there!

nevada
05-09-2008, 02:49 AM
Tell Mitchels Mausers you want one with the SS deaths head and Hitlers signature. They will gaurantee them to be original. :adolph:


I got mine, a Russian capture, 1939 with all the Nazi stamps, etc, from Classic Arms. You can talk to them and tell them what you're looking for. Their site is very detailed also.

Schultz
05-09-2008, 06:54 AM
A friend just bought one from Classic and it was in great shape. Unless you want a fancy 98 stay away from Mitchells.

M1 Tanker
05-09-2008, 07:39 AM
Stay away from Mitchells Mausers...period. They sell you a polished turd, complete with fancy paperwork that is all a lie anyway. Its a Russian Capture K98, they have "force" matched.....run far far away.

Now, from your post I'm assuming you want just your normal run of the mill russian capture K98? Remember, the only parts that will match on one is the barrel and the receiver. These rifles have been reworked and refinished.

If so, then Classic, Aim, ioinc or any of the other deals in Shotgun News will be fine. Most of these rifles are about the same quality and if you are mail ordering, its a crap shoot unless you can look at pictures of a specific rifle prior to buying.

Good Luck!

KMURPHY
05-09-2008, 05:02 PM
Tell Mitchels Mausers you want one with the SS deaths head and Hitlers signature. They will gaurantee them to be original. :adolph:




that is hilarious, Mitchells sucks

8point
05-09-2008, 05:55 PM
http://64.82.96.51/
Empire arms has several indivdual K98's listed by make and year. From my experience,Dennis is a good person to deal with.

Milsurp
05-09-2008, 07:43 PM
I got two from IO and one from Classic Arms. Classic gives a complete discription of the rifles on their website. Better hurry up though I believe the ship is about to sail on the R/C K98's.

SSwee
05-15-2008, 10:40 PM
Just wanted to tell everyone thanks for the help and reminders on what and where it's available. I have so many links to places and have looked so many places that when I go to get something I can't find or remember where I saw squat. I've been told that was having a senior moment. I read on all the suggestions and went with AIM, where I had good luck in getting decent looking rifles before. I received a fairly nice looking 1941 K98 from Obendourf with the German markings. Now I can have fun getting the extras. Cleaning rod, sling,front sight hood and bayonet.
Numrich has most of the stuff unless ya'll can tell me a better place.
Where can I find what the appropriate bayonet would be?
I have locking(capture?) screws coming. I will have extras if anyone is interested.
SS

kevin
05-15-2008, 11:01 PM
if you get one from classic make sure and ask if the large dot matrix serial number was put on the receiver. I got 1 out of about 10 that had that and it really took away from the looks. It was still the same number the germans put on the barrel and receiver. I dont know why they did that

ive bought numerous ones from classic and aim, was very happy with both places

rifleman
05-15-2008, 11:06 PM
nice steve. how much it cost ya

SSwee
05-15-2008, 11:12 PM
It was the $239 at Aim. Cost a bit more with ammo. Just like a kid in a candy store.
SS

rifleman
05-15-2008, 11:29 PM
It was the $239 at Aim. Cost a bit more with ammo. Just like a kid in a candy store.
SS

isn't that how it is for all of us.

M1 Tanker
05-16-2008, 08:03 AM
Accessories..........I haven't seen the Numrich stuff, so I would stay away.


You need a 12" cleaning rod to go with that cupped buttplate. IMA has reproduction ones. Originals cost over $100.

Slings are available from IMA also, same, original slings are well over $100.

IOinc.us may also have rods and slings. I'm pretty sure they have front sight hoods too.

Now bayonets...well what do you want?

An original can be had for $40 and up. Ebay, gunbroker, etc..

http://1944militaria.com/ has some original bayonets too.

brewskzilla
05-16-2008, 09:07 AM
[QUOTE=kevin917z;82636]if you get one from classic make sure and ask if the large dot matrix serial number was put on the receiver. I got 1 out of about 10 that had that and it really took away from the looks. It was still the same number the germans put on the barrel and receiver. I dont know why they did that

Usually, that's because they dont think you can read the serial number as it was originally stamped. Sometimes, however, the original stamped number is clear as day and they still do it. In that case, I recommend touching that spot up to hide what they did.

As far as Mitchel's Mausers goes, I ordered Herman Geri's personal rifle and they sent it; repleat with a perfect image of Adolph Hitler carved into the stock, and a photo of Eva Braun and Adolph smooching at the Eagle's nest laquered onto the other side. It was serial number 1. It also came with the empty shell casing of the first bullet fired in WWII, and the sling was made from actual leather from Kaiser Wilhelm's saddle. The bayonette blade was actually the blade from Gustav Vas' personal rapier, and the case it came in was actually a pant-leg from Adolph Hitler's trousers.

What a deal! :thumbup:

nevada
05-16-2008, 01:30 PM
Hay wait a minute! Mine is serial #1, and it's the one that killed Stalin! Yours must be #1*. I also have Hitlers Luger that killed Eisenhower.

Mitchels! Mitchels! Mitchels!

trenches
05-16-2008, 03:53 PM
[QUOTE=kevin917z;82636]if you get one from classic make sure and ask if the large dot matrix serial number was put on the receiver. I got 1 out of about 10 that had that and it really took away from the looks. It was still the same number the germans put on the barrel and receiver. I dont know why they did that

Usually, that's because they dont think you can read the serial number as it was originally stamped. Sometimes, however, the original stamped number is clear as day and they still do it. In that case, I recommend touching that spot up to hide what they did.

As far as Mitchel's Mausers goes, I ordered Herman Geri's personal rifle and they sent it; repleat with a perfect image of Adolph Hitler carved into the stock, and a photo of Eva Braun and Adolph smooching at the Eagle's nest laquered onto the other side. It was serial number 1. It also came with the empty shell casing of the first bullet fired in WWII, and the sling was made from actual leather from Kaiser Wilhelm's saddle. The bayonette blade was actually the blade from Gustav Vas' personal rapier, and the case it came in was actually a pant-leg from Adolph Hitler's trousers.

What a deal! :thumbup:

Some guys have all the luck! I was hoping to get Himmler's personal K98 complete with double and triple SS runes but it wasn't ready...oops... I mean cleaned up yet. So I'll have to wait now.
I've heard that their K98's are actually Yugo M-48's. There was quite a discussion over at the Mauser collector's forum some time ago. Basic suggestion about Mitchell's was run away as fast as you can.
BTW, I bought mine at a local store. It is a bcd which compliments my semi MG-42 which has a dfb receiver. Both codes for Gustloff Werke.

SSwee
05-16-2008, 11:08 PM
Ok, I'm probably going to show my ignorance here but is the butt plate in the pic considered flat or cupped? I had thought it was flat but M1 commented the need for a 12" cleaning rod with the cupped buttplate.

I have read up on how these rifles were handled and the reasons the are not many matching numbered guns. The stock appears laminated which was late war or rearsenaled if I understood what I read. It has been force matched by sanding a low spot to remove another number but has 3 German cartouches behind the disk on the left side. I would guess that it was a late war stock from another rifle or would I be way off base? Another Q is the entire stock appears to have been originally shaped with a coarse grit belt sander cross grain. Is this common?
Thanks a million for the info
SS

nevada
05-16-2008, 11:33 PM
That is NOT a cupped butt plate. This is, on a Yugo 48. But German rifles came with them too.

nevada
05-17-2008, 12:03 AM
Did some research, and the change from 10.5" to 12.5" cleaning rods was generaly done in 1940. My 1939 has a 10.5" rod. The suggestion to determine which you need is to insert a cleaning rod and measure from mid front sight. The nut for thr the 10.5" is under a barrel band. The nut for the 12.5" is "under the barrel". The nut may be full of cosmo. So yours should take the 12.5" rod. I don't know that the butt plate type has anything to do with rod length, but I didn't check.

SSwee
05-17-2008, 12:42 AM
Thanks the pic helped. I found a pic of a loose cupped butt plate and thought I understood bit wasn't sure. I pushed a Mosin cleaning rod in and got a rough measurement of 12" but need to pull the stock to check the nut and take an accurate measurment.

trenches
05-17-2008, 06:45 AM
SSwee, concerning the sanding. The Russians were probably removing anti- Stalin graffitti carved on the stock by some bored Landser.
When I got my RC K98 I scraped off the Russian varnish. It was peeling in several places anyway. I lightly sanded it and then put a coat of artist grade linseed oil on the stock. After that I used some of my special beeswax stock wax to finish.

M1 Tanker
05-17-2008, 10:37 AM
Ok, I'm probably going to show my ignorance here but is the butt plate in the pic considered flat or cupped? I had thought it was flat but M1 commented the need for a 12" cleaning rod with the cupped buttplate.

I have read up on how these rifles were handled and the reasons the are not many matching numbered guns. The stock appears laminated which was late war or rearsenaled if I understood what I read. It has been force matched by sanding a low spot to remove another number but has 3 German cartouches behind the disk on the left side. I would guess that it was a late war stock from another rifle or would I be way off base? Another Q is the entire stock appears to have been originally shaped with a coarse grit belt sander cross grain. Is this common?
Thanks a million for the info
SS

That was my bad, it looked cupped I thought. Flat butt plate requires the 10.5 inch cleaning rod. IOINC has some I think. A flat butt plate and laminate stock would be a 1939-1941 stock, I think. They went to a cupped buttplate to keep the laminate from coming about.

The Russian sanded that side of the stock and stamped in that serial number. The Germans put their serial numbers inside the barrel channel.

I would remove that russian shellac. Some denatured alcohol and a piece of steel wool will pull it right off. Once you get it remove, oil it with some pure tung oil.

SSwee
05-19-2008, 01:30 AM
Just about got it ready for a range trip. I have another question for those that know. The disk in the butt stock are suppose to be for disassembly/assembly of the bolt does the disk pop out with a cartridge tip or how is it suppose to come out? How is it intended to help take the bolt down?
TIA
SS

nowhereman
05-19-2008, 01:59 AM
Just about got it ready for a range trip. I have another question for those that know. The disk in the butt stock are suppose to be for disassembly/assembly of the bolt does the disk pop out with a cartridge tip or how is it suppose to come out? How is it intended to help take the bolt down?
TIA
SS

Compress firing pin if I remember correctly. I haven't disassembled my k98 yet, I remeber doing that w/ my M48.

SSwee
06-04-2008, 12:47 AM
Update on K98 accessories. Found an original sight hood for $20. Most were going for $40 to $65. It wasn't easy to put on at all. At just before the throwing stuff stage, I got my son to guide it into place while I strained to spread it far enough to go on with cave diving life line and wrenches for grip handles. I've seen original slings going for $125 to $325. Amazing to me someone would pay $325 for a sling. I did get crazy and paid $125 for a bayonet made the same year as the gun a "41. The scabbard is a "39. The bayo, scabbard, and frog are all German marked with waffenampts. Cleaning rods are going $45 to $125. Still waiting to catch an original for the right price. The thrill of the hunt and the agony of the wallet.
SS

Smokehouse69
06-05-2008, 10:37 PM
Update on K98 accessories. Found an original sight hood for $20. Most were going for $40 to $65. It wasn't easy to put on at all. At just before the throwing stuff stage, I got my son to guide it into place while I strained to spread it far enough to go on with cave diving life line and wrenches for grip handles. I've seen original slings going for $125 to $325. Amazing to me someone would pay $325 for a sling. I did get crazy and paid $125 for a bayonet made the same year as the gun a "41. The scabbard is a "39. The bayo, scabbard, and frog are all German marked with waffenampts. Cleaning rods are going $45 to $125. Still waiting to catch an original for the right price. The thrill of the hunt and the agony of the wallet.
SS
Be very, very careful when buying "original parts" most (99.9%)of the ones on FleaBay are fakes. I gave up trying to find original parts for my 98k's and just went with known reporductions.
Many of the "original parts" are post war Czech or Norwegian manufacture.
If you really want some sage advice, the real experts on 98K rifles hang out at this forum. I lay low and try to learn from the experts. Mr. Farb, Hambone and ScottB are nationally recognized experts on everything 98K!

http://gk43forum.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=14

SSwee
06-05-2008, 11:58 PM
Thanks Smokehouse69 for the tip and the link. I liked how many parts were unissued or the several other ways they have for saying reproduction without using the word. That or advertise as original, then post a pic of a cheap repro.
SS

nevada
06-06-2008, 11:27 AM
But it's an original reproduction! Come ON! :icon_biggrin:

Old Jimmy
06-06-2008, 11:40 AM
I have a question, what are the locking screws for and why would the Russians take them off??

SSwee
06-06-2008, 11:39 PM
I have a question, what are the locking screws for and why would the Russians take them off??

The locking screws lock or keep from backing out, the two bolts that go through the trigger guard plate and into the receiver. The only reason for leaving them out that I could see would be saving time. The two locking screws are different from each other in that the rear screw goes in at an angle.
SS

Old Jimmy
06-07-2008, 12:37 AM
Thanks Sswee, I will pick them up with the K 98 at AIM then!

SSwee
06-07-2008, 12:56 AM
I have an extra set if you need them.
SS

MGMike
06-07-2008, 02:35 PM
Just about got it ready for a range trip. I have another question for those that know. The disk in the butt stock are suppose to be for disassembly/assembly of the bolt does the disk pop out with a cartridge tip or how is it suppose to come out? How is it intended to help take the bolt down?
TIA
SS

nucl's got it right. After you unscrew it from the bolt body. You stick the firing pin nose in the hole, so that you can press down to compress the spring to get the parts off the back end.:wink: