Two CETME questions

[513osiris]

ok first and foremost, I've seen alot about bolt gap, and I went and got a feeler guage, did the HK slap... pulled the trigger, and stuck the bugger up in there, the thing is, most of the forum posts I've seen have been about how to fix it if the bolt gap is too small, or the problems with having a bolt gap that is too small... but my problem is the opposite. The biggest blade on my gauge is .025" (.635mm) and I can stick that in there and wiggle it... In fact I have to use two blades to gether in order to get any gripping, so I'm esitmating around a .9mm gap, which is WAY too big according to most manuals, etc.
thing is, I havn't had any trouble firing her, so.... is it an issue? should I try to get some smaller rollers? or just leave it be (if it aint broke dont fix it?)
Any detailed help on this would be appreciated.


Second issue: (not as important)
Ok on the charging handle (the thing you flip out and pull back to cock the rifle) It pivots on a pin. The thing is, if I cock it a few dozen times, the pin seems to like to work its way down and drag on the bottom of the cocking tube, making it impossible to cock (you slap it and it turns in-line with the slot, but doesn't fly forward, if you can man-handle it back in the first place...)
I tried to shove it out, by pushing on the pin from above in teh small hole. I got it to pop about halfway out the large hole int he bottom of the cocking tube, but there it STAYED. I even bent the tool I was using by hitting it with a hammer trying to drive it out... so eventually I just got out the trusty dremmel, shamved a little off the bottom of it, put a little JB-quick at the top and used a punch to drive it back up into place. She slides back and forth like a champ now, but if I ever need to get that spring off of that pin, it is going to get interesting. any tricks to this?

[Buelligan]

Most manuals are METRIk settings , You are proplely using u.s feelers. Mine was .20 and I bought new under size rollers I think -4 from Rob at RTG and it is now like .9 . RTG is a member here , He is vary cool to deal with . The pin on the CH is splined . My be it is worn . I would get one from RTG too, or weld the end of the pin with REAL weld , but if the JB is holding up just go with it. I think the JB will break lose one day. Have fun with it , these are vary fun rifles to shoot.

[SteelCore]

You might also check for the ground bolt head...just to make sure.

[rustypirate]

513osiris,

the bolt gap may be reading false due to a ground bolt head as Steelecore stated, or it may also be due to the bolt carrier riding on the charging handle support. some searching here will bring up multiple posts on both issues.

As for the charging handle pin removal.... (this may sound a little simplistic)
Drive the pin out the opposite way, from bottom to top. these pins are splined on ne ned as Buelligan stated, and may not come out from top-to-bottom.

[513osiris]

Thank you all for the tips, I didn't realize the pin was tapered, got problem #2 fixed!

But as for the first issue:
the bolt head does not appear to be ground. (it has that bevel all the way around still) It may be the bolt carrier, as when it is 'slapped' forward, there is NO play at all in the charging handle (as some posts suggest it should be snug but rattle a little if you jiggle it) if this is the problem, what should I do to correct it? should I just get smaller rollers or is there a better solution?

I have both metric and American markings on my feeler gauges. (for example .025" = .635mm) the gap appears to be .041" (1.041mm)

I guess the follow up question is, is this dangerous?
from what I've read in the other threads, it seems that too large a gap means the bolt will 'unlock too early', but I'm not sure what sort of problems that could cause

[Rocky]

If the charging handle has no gap (or wiggle) befor it hits the carrier it will keep bolt gap from closing all the way, charging handle gap should be about like bolt gap .010-.020 , you can grind back carrier, front end that contacts charging handle a little at a time shoot for .015 of an inch, then true bolt gap can be determined

Rocky :America:

[rustypirate]

too large a bolt gap can be dangerous as it means that the bolt carrier unlocks too soon while there is still dangerously high pressure in the barrel, which can blow back into the shooter.

[AK AJ]

Thank you all for the tips, I didn't realize the pin was tapered, got problem #2 fixed!

But as for the first issue:
the bolt head does not appear to be ground. (it has that bevel all the way around still) It may be the bolt carrier, as when it is 'slapped' forward, there is NO play at all in the charging handle (as some posts suggest it should be snug but rattle a little if you jiggle it) if this is the problem, what should I do to correct it? should I just get smaller rollers or is there a better solution?

I have both metric and American markings on my feeler gauges. (for example .025" = .635mm) the gap appears to be .041" (1.041mm)

I guess the follow up question is, is this dangerous?
from what I've read in the other threads, it seems that too large a gap means the bolt will 'unlock too early', but I'm not sure what sort of problems that could cause

Running a Cetme with to big of a bolt gap is like wearing shoes that are too big for your feet.

You can do it and it will work,But instead of blisters and wearing the backside out of your shoes you may end up with a blown out trunnion and 50,000 psi to the face.

Welcome to the site.

AJ