Oh, crap: CETME woes..

[SteelCore]

Well, I got a new bolt head and locaking piece in a buddy's CETME last night, thinking that this would fix his zero bolt gap issue. It did not. Does this mean he needs a barrel repress? And if so, who does thse, and what do they cost? Was BIG50 one of the folks who does this?

He's kinda bummed, but he got if from a guy who had it for a pretty good price. He's rather fix it than sell it.

Additionally, we found some other issues with the rifle. The cocking handle spring was sheared, so he needs a new one of those...I think robert at RTG sells these? Any other sources?

Also, the tapered pin that holds that handle to the cocking tube cylinder is so loose I didn't even have to drive it out--it just fell out when we removed the CETME HG...is there a place to get those?

I told my buddy not to be discouraged, and reminded him about the three months I put in on my CETME before I even took it to the range (and how jealous I was when the AK he got at the same time I got the CETME was 'ready to roll' right outta the box). And, the build has nice clean welds, a shiny bright bbl that puts mine to shame, etc.

[drine]

One of the comapnies, IGF, I think is the only major comapny that will work on these. I haven't been able to get in touch with big 50. They want 325.00 to do the work ONLY. You supply the parts. You will have to refinish it or pay another 200.00 just for the upper portion, and 75.00 for the trigger pack. I added the costs and it was near 700.00 adding shipping, FLL fees, parts, etc..
With the help of these boards I just finsihed mine last night and waiting for range time.
To rebarrel, you need some tools and a bit of skill and a little more patience than I had at times. A guy on gunbroker sells just the front stub with a new barrel so you get a barrel, and all the cocking tube parts that you seem to need for @ $100.00. You will have to find a sling pin and find out what size barrel pin you will need.

I'll pose a question here for the other members to answer: If you need more gap, the parts didn't help, could you remove the barrel pin and tap the barrel back a bit and then ream a little oversize, say .200-.205, which would get the slot and hole lined up again and then pin it with a correct size gauge pin?? This seem possible and would take a lot less skill and equipment. A local machine shop that you trust could ream it or you could buy one from MSC or others. Just a thought. That would assume the rifling wasn't worn out.
David

[texlurch]

I'll pose a question here for the other members to answer: If you need more gap, the parts didn't help, could you remove the barrel pin and tap the barrel back a bit and then ream a little oversize, say .200-.205, which would get the slot and hole lined up again and then pin it with a correct size gauge pin?? This seem possible and would take a lot less skill and equipment. A local machine shop that you trust could ream it or you could buy one from MSC or others. Just a thought. That would assume the rifling wasn't worn out.
David

Yes, you can. I have heard of people using a correctly sized drill bit for a pin.
You gain 4 thou bolt gap for every 1 thou you move it, so it doesn't take much.

[SteelCore]

thanks for the news...so I could unpin it, press the bbl in by hand, then re-slot and re-pin? Sounds like there's still some skill needed.


I'll pbreak the news to him, see what he thinks.

[rustypirate]

In order to repin the barrel properly, you need to remove it, rotate 180 degrees, and repress it. Otherwise it will just go back to the original depth when you repin.

[jfowl31]

rusty, if you press it back in and REAM the hole to a bigger size and pin it with a bigger pin, it shoulnt move back to the original spot right? BUT I thought it damages the trunnion and/or barrel to push it backwards.

[drine]

If you are .014 on gap and wanted .020 I would tap it back. The equivalent of barrel movement is .001-.003. That would not be enough to roll the press over as the machinists say.
I think the same on over size of the ream. My trunnion pin hole was a slip fit for the 5mm pin and 3or 4 other 5mm pins I got from work. I had to go .200 pin to get a tight fit.
I've done one so that don't make me an expert...and I didn't stay at Holiday......
drine

[rustypirate]

rusty, if you press it back in and REAM the hole to a bigger size and pin it with a bigger pin, it shoulnt move back to the original spot right? BUT I thought it damages the trunnion and/or barrel to push it backwards.

both the trunion and barrel material are hardened, and just the action of reaming out the hole after moving the barrel a couple of thousandths there is no way of accurately keeping the barrel from moving back to the original position when the ream starts cutting. it is easier for the barrel to move and center the ream on the old hole than to cut the material off-center on the new hole location. YMMV

[jfowl31]

I see what youre saying... the steel is so hard the it will move back to center before your ream is able to cut a new hole right?

I guess that makes sense. If there was theoretically a way to keep the barrel from moving though, it could work right?

[weasel_master]

In theory anything can work. I think it would be quit a hassle though. I tried doing something like that on a support arm for a project I'm working on. Ended up just drilling a whole new hole.

[Tom Doniphon]

Keep in mind that all bolts are not dimensionally the same. I have seen new CETME bolts that are correct overall length yet have the holes for the rollers too far forward so the have no bolt gap. Steelcore try putting you bolt, locking piece and carrier in his gun and see what it measures.

[mprtech]

A repress is the only way to do it. Replace the barrel if its dark or shot out.
Its not all that hard to do but a press, drill press, BFH and a nice 5/16 drift punch is really all that is needed. If you make good enough holes in the receiver you dont need to refinish, just touch up the hole. PTR's dont fill the pin holes back in. Oh yeah you will need a torch for the triple housing.