Range day, FINALLY!

[drine]

Maybe some of you have kept up with my CETME rebarrel. First off, thanks a lot to BigSteve for all of his help and to any of the other comments and suggestions others gave. The CETME is rebarreled with a Korean G-3 barrel that was also questioned by some members, unfortunately after it was pressed.
I pinned it with .017 gap after all was said and done. I shot 20 rounds today. Before rebarrel, I could not hit the paper at 40 feet anywhere close and many times off!! Now, I'm getting a 1inch group just off hand shooting at 25yards!! It worked! It will group much better when I can get more time.
Actually I'm shooting it in the backyard.
I did have some FTE that I won't blame on the barrel just yet. One reason is I left the rifle fairly dry all over. Enough breakfree on the bolt carrier to slide in the receiver and nothing on or near the bolt head. One thing I noticed using my 5 round mag is that the last round always ejected well. I even loaded one by hand and it flew out. This was a good mag before.
I'll try several things next time: Use old bolt head/LP which will get me back down to .008 or so just because I didn't fire but 5 or 6 rounds before with the new parts. Second I will lube the heck out of it as if breaking it in gain.
Also, I bought a new ejector before and it may be riding too high, I'll swap back and see how the old does.
The cases that did fly out didn't have the normal dent. The recoil with the wood and good gap was a bit lighter. Of course the ones that didn't eject had severe flute marks and extra recoil. That's about it. I'll be visiting my Dad in KY next week so if anyone has additional comments it will be a while before I get them. Thanks again guys, this is an awesome site. David

[nevada]

Glad to hear the barrel shoots well. Were the cases that stuck in the flutes NATO or commercial?

[drine]

South African all the way.
Not so funny thing. I cleaned the Spanish barrel that I ended up gauling and not being able to use. It came clean real easy. This Korean G3 barrrel was a bit of a pain and I think was a little rusty since the patches came out brown. It could stand more scrubbing but is nice and shiney now. I use a 20ga brush but will order a .308 chamber brush ASAP. I still had tinges of brown on the patches after a couple of dozen.
It was really dry too. When I first bought it. It didn't cycle too well until I drowned it in oil. After a brief break in, I only lubed it to spec.
Since I used Big Steve's method of using a set screw to set my front sight before soldering, it really won't take much to put another SPANISH barrel on it. Just a few bucks. Like I said before, I've got some gameplans to try before I resort to that. Thrilled with the accuracy though and if parts disappeared tomorrow, I'd rather have a single shot CETME than a semi auto CETME that wasn't accurate.

[cimmaronkid]

Great to hear that the rifle is back and working well again. Post some picks of the gun when you get a chance. Try some Sweet's on the bore to help remove any rust and copper that may have started to build due to the rust.

[drine]

I was going to post some pics after I clean up the mess and Duracoat it. I figure what the heck. For the uninitiated, the extra holes in the trunnion are the result of NOT listening to Uncle Perro. I actually had a front stub which turned out to have a longer trunnion or different pin location than normal. See the other post that SSwee shows his bare trunnion vs my bare trunnion. Mine's more impressive:oops:
Seriously, had I used Perro's measurements, I would have hit it right the first time. What the difference between trunnions comes from hasn't been answered quite yet.

[drine]

Ok here's the pics!
You can see the extra holes in the trunnion. JB weld will have to do unless someone has a better idea.
The screw sticking from the bottom was suggested by bigSteve so that I can get the windage perfectly centered before soldering. It will stay there until the Korean barrel works right or is exchanged!

[cbear]

:jumping: :jumping: :clapping: :clapping:

[jfowl31]

Glad to hear it worked at least semi-well... Its a much better starting point with the Gap well in spec, and with it shooting well. I wonder if maybe the bolt is binding on either the magazine or the ejector. If it ejected the last round perfectly, it could very well be the magazine sitting too high, and when rounds are loaded, they drag on the bolt. You can load the mag, and cycle the action, and then eject the round manually to see if it is dragging badly on the top round, but you wont be able to diagnose that problem for real until you shoot it with a different mag or 2.

Its gonna be really nice looking once you get that metal refinished, especially with the blonde wood.

You could try the preferred method of breaking in... Put so much oil on it that it slings out when you fire it, and drips if you turn it on its side, and run 50-100 rounds through it quickly... then strip it down and clean the crap out of it. That oil will lube at first then trap all the gunk and surround it so that it can be cleaned out after your shooting. Many people have to do that with their Century rifles straight from the factory, and after the initial break-in, things run well. Hopefully thats all yours needs.........

[M1 Tanker]

Congrats Drine! Getting a broken rifle up and running correctly is one of the most satisfying jobs in the world. It looks good man, its nice to see one with wood :)

[hunter_la5]

congrats man. hope that barrel does work out for you. by the way, you have one of the prettiest CETME stocks Ive seen in a while.

[Nature Boy]

So how much money do you have in this weapon of moderate destruction?

Nature Boy

[Smokehouse69]

congrats man. hope that barrel does work out for you. by the way, you have one of the prettiest CETME stocks Ive seen in a while.
What he said! :thumbup:

[bullseye]

It is going to look real nice when it is done, that light wood is pretty.

BTW, it is a weapon of mass recreation.

[jfowl31]

looks like one helluva deer rifle from where I sit.

[drine]

I'll get to the range when I can. Got a big honey-do list while I'm off of work.
FYI. The buttstock was bought from Cope's. Their forearm didn't match so I bought another set off of wildbillcody. His forearm and my stock matched like they were cut from the same piece. I steamed the finish from both and Tung-oiled them. I then refinished the remaining two with tung oil and they looked just as good to me. elefantmk1(?) got those on the sale board.
Got more to to share including a long-lost uncle whom I haven't seen in years who has a collection I need to see. Some kind of belt-fed job with fins my dad says plus hundreds of others I need to go see.
David

[Big Steve]

Atta-Boy! Can you weld that extra hole up and then tune the original hole up with JB before you coat it?
Steve

[drine]

I'll get the spare holes welded over and was figuring on fixing up the pin holes with JB weld to make it look nice.

[cetme]

great job on the u fix it rifle! Were did you get the G-3 bbl?