Cetme Trigger Group Question

[Smokehouse69]

I've made the modifications to my trigger group components and have reassembled it. What I want to know is there any reason to install the parts associated with group #2 (sear spring and pin) in the picture below?
http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=472&d=1173489584
The reason I am asking this is that the trigger mechanism housing that I got from Jestism over on the Weapons Guild, does not have the hole for it. I personally can't see any use for it in a semi-auto build.

[jbruney]

Got the same group from him and it works fine w/o those parts...Those went to the no no's anyway.
How do you like the feel of the trigger after the modifications?

[rustypirate]

There might be issues with the sear not catching on release of the trigger. The spring in question provides return pressure against the sear.

[Raul62]

I just made my trigger modification this weekend. I have the hole you are missing, so I installed the spring / pin. I placed the legs of the spring on top of the shelf I welded, and the trigger return response is great! Without this return tension, my trigger felt sloppy, and it did not return well.

Side Note on Lightening Trigger Pull - I used a dremel to polish the trigger and hammer where they contact, and this really improved / lightened my trigger pull - you don't want to take off any material, just use a polish stone or fine grit sand paper and then polish with dremel - I used brass polishing liquid (dillon), it worked well, and now my trigger pull is lighter, and more crisp.

[trenches]

That spring and pin are also your trigger return spring. Without them the trigger is a bit groggy returning to it's forward position. Plus there may be trouble with sear engagement.
I finally got my new sear bar made and installed. I had to do a little trial and error fitting before hardening it. Works great now. So now I have a US "trenches" made hammer, trigger, sear bar, and charging handle. And a nice smooth let-off.
Next up is a US muzzle device by IGF. I haven't decided which one to buy. The original style or the muzzle break type. Anybody have any experience with the muzzle break by IGF?
I would have liked to have gone to the range this weekend but I was busy installing a new roof on the back of the house. Realized what being 60yrs. old meant. Boy am I out of shape.
Oh, I also installed a new mag catch assembly from RTG. I also reduced the width of the mag well opening. The mags lock up much better now with little or no wiggle. Hopefully that will eliminate the stovepiping I experienced.
Now if I can only get to the range.

[brewskzilla]

#1 on the trigger return spring. As to being 60... I'm only 22 years behind you... :rolleyes:

[Smokehouse69]

Thanks for the tip on the trigger spring, looks like I'll have to drill some holes. The trigger is definately slugish on return without the spring. I wonder why he deleted the hole?

[ShuckersFan]

I drilled mine as well and it's much better now.

[jbruney]

Well I'm going to try it too because it does work as is, but something just doesn't feel quite right.

[trenches]

I wonder why jestism neglected to drill the hole. I definitely think that it is needed. I assembled the trigger group without it and I had to push the trigger forward with my finger. For awhile there I was wondering where to put the legs of the spring and like Raul I figured that they would work if placed under the hammer spring.
As for being 60, after removing 2 layers of old shingles and the original tin roof, and then having to replace the bad 1x's, and then placing OSB over the entire roof, laying the felt, laying the shingles, and then installing the flashing against the brick wall, all in 90 degree plus weather, I really felt more like 100. I'm glad I took a vacation day on Mon. I definitely needed it. Still makes me sweat to think of it. And to think, I used to do that for a living. On every house I built I installed the roof.

[NWAR]

A tip on polishing the trigger if you don't want to use a dremel. Pick up, (or liberate from wife) some emory boards/files. They work great and you can get nice crisp edges.
The cost about a buck and work great in a pich.

Just work you way from blue to red to gray to white.
Only use the black if you need to smoth out a rough edge.

[jbruney]

The spring and pin addition took what was a spongy return and improved it greatly....Now I have the perfect rifle. When building and making conversions I tend to get locked into the obscure legal issues of acceptable parts and overlook the obvious necessities for the best overall performance.
I won't kick myself for missing this....I'm just glad it was brought to attention because it is always the little things that make it done right.:thumbup: