DIY bbl repress?

[SteelCore]

Hi, all:

I have a buddy whose CETME has Zero bolt gap, and i think that means it needs a bbl repress, since we tried a new bolt head and locking piece. I was told that a gunsmith might charge upwads of 500-700USD to do this, but that I could feasibly do it myself.

My buddy will prolly sell it to me at a dicounted price, and the recever, parts, and bbl in better condition that the CETME i've been shooting for years. In other words, If I can fix it, I'd be getting the CETME for a really great deal!

So, what tools are needed for a repres? I know I'll need to dril out a pin inder the bbl...and do soem tothe rstuff...but how do you press a bbl in only a few thusandths of an inch?

Thanks,

--Steely.

[SteelCore]

I was tolkd that a CETME with zero bolt gap (after putting in a new bolt head, rollers, locking piece, etc) needs a barrel repress. Folks also said to thave this done is often more than the cost of the CETME, 500-700USD.

I think TexLurch said ot was possible for one to do it one' self, and save a bundle of cash.

So, how do you accomplish a bbl repress, and what tools are needed? I gkno the general gist is to locate and drill out the pin that holds the bbl in the receiver, but how do I knockl the bbl out just a few thousands of an inch? Then I suppose I have to re-notch the bbl underside and put a drill rod pin in or something like that to re assemble?

Can I use all the same receiver parts? and I gonna need to unweld/reweld anything?

My buddy might sell me his CETME for cheap since it doesn't work...

[Tom Doniphon]

Steelcore before you repress the barrell put the complete bolt carrier with the bolt from one of your CETME's that has good bolt gap into his CETME and check the bolt gap. You may be surpised at the result.

[texlurch]

Steelcore before you repress the barrell put the complete bolt carrier with the bolt from one of your CETME's that has good bolt gap into his CETME and check the bolt gap. You may be surpised at the result.


Big +1 on that. Mine had a .003 gap, with +4 rollers and new LP. Just for kicks I tossed in the complete carrier and bolt from my CFS kit, and I now have .007-.008.

I still plan on replacing the barrel, with the new Spaniard that came in the kit. But it is worth a try. Just verify you still have cocking tube clearance when you swap things around.

There used to be a FAQ around on the the whole barrel press deal, and there are plenty of new builds around here now...

[hulygan]

Steelcore if you check out the build on my thread you will see the rig i made to press my barrel, its pretty easy to do, and i got a .012 gap on my first try, I could have gotten it closer but i slipped a little hit the pump on the jack a little too much. I built this with ten bucks worth of steel, a 5/8 drill bit, a mig welder and a schucks 12.99 bottle jack. wasn't hard and if you want i can send some rough instructions to you. most importantly just go SLOW.

[SteelCore]

"Steelcore before you repress the barrell put the complete bolt carrier with the bolt from one of your CETME's that has good bolt gap into his CETME and check the bolt gap. You may be surpised at the result."

-->OK I'll try that. Say that I do it, and it gaps out just fine...what does it mean? (He has a new locking piece and bolt head in his carrier as it is, and the BG is still zero.)

I also ahve a factory new bolt carier I could put the other new parts in, if it would help.

I was uncer the impression that zero bolt gap, withn new, properly installed and unground parts, would suzzest the bl needs repressed. Is there another option I'm missing?

I'll check back in when I've swapped parts and letcha know.

--Edited to add---
Not sure if these little details matter, but there were some problems with his cocking handle...The spring int he cocking handle was broken, and the pin that hlds the cocking ass'y in the tube has the pin that goes into it so loose, you just have to line the pin up with the bottom hole and it falls out.

Dunno how this might affect the BG>

[SteelCore]

hulygan...I'll czech out the thread....I have a few more check to make before I start the bbl repress stuff yet.

[M1 Tanker]

I merged the 2 threads.

[texlurch]

Not sure if these little details matter, but there were some problems with his cocking handle...The spring int he cocking handle was broken, and the pin that hlds the cocking ass'y in the tube has the pin that goes into it so loose, you just have to line the pin up with the bottom hole and it falls out.

Dunno how this might affect the BG>

Before he changed parts, what kind of clearance did the handle have on the cocking tube? Check the tube for cracks or signs of battering.

Then again, if the gap was that small, he or the previous owner may have been beating or kicking on the cocking handle to get it unlocked.

[SteelCore]

and the handle hard to open. I'll have to chekc on it for stress cracks, but like I said, welds and such looke clean on it. Do you thing the carrier might be too long? I have a stock (new unused) carrier I can compare it to...

I'll get some experimenting in this weekend, if he has time...otherwise, it'll be next wed til we can get to it.

Thanks,

--Steely.

[SteelCore]

"Steelcore before you repress the barrell put the complete bolt carrier with the bolt from one of your CETME's that has good bolt gap into his CETME and check the bolt gap. You may be surpised at the result."

__>Okay, here's the results. I put my bolt carrier assy that gaps at .012, and it showed a gap when put in his CETME...

What does this mean? Was the bolt carrier on his CETME shortened too much? Is there some other problem I'm missing here?

[texlurch]

You have some clearance in the cocking tube, with your parts in his gun? What gap did you end up with?

I would take them both apart and do some measuring. Check both bolt lengths, roller diameter, compare the LP's with each other. Just for curiousity, compare the bolt carrier bodys to see if they are different? The more I mess around inside these things, the more tolerance points I am finding.

Guess I need to spend a little quality time and compare the three bolt assemblies I have.

[SteelCore]

.010 or .011 in gap. I really need to get the new cocking handle pin and spring in there to get an accurate reading. Without the spring, the handle doesn't wanna flatten down along the cocking tube when you slap it to charge it....it wants to stick straight out.

I measured the new bolt head in his CETME, and it is .835 like my older (but obviously unground) bolt head. The locking piece liiks about new, replacing the one he had that had a bit of weird wear (grooving) on the contact points. the bolt carrier in his rifle was visually shorter than the one in my rifle, maybe 2-4mm shorter.

I put his new Locking piece and BH in a brand new bolt carrier I had, and I can't get a definite readingbacause of the cocking handle spring issue.

Once I get the spring in there, I'll get back to you.

Thanks,

Steely.

[texlurch]

Sounds like you may have a couple issues. Definately fix that cocking handle and clean the snot out of everything before you check the gap.

[Tom Doniphon]

I think you have a bad bolt. The bolt being new is not a guarantee that it is in spec. Check your PM and call me tomorrow if you have time.

[SteelCore]

I'll get back to you after Wed. when I checked all we discussed. Thanks!

--SteelCore