Help me spend my money

[Orlando]

I just spent $350.00 on 1000rds of 223, after I did I thought I must be nuts. I could have bought a reloading outfit!
I know nothing about reloading but do have someone that can help get me started. My question is what to buy? I dont need top of the line that will pmp out ammo at a fast rate but dont want junk either and in a year dont want to wish I had spent more money and bought something else
I'll be loading pistol and rifle ammo.
So help me spend my money, what brand model etc do you recommend ? I have nothing so will need everything it takes
Thanks guys

[Perro Del Diablo]

lee classic cast turret to start

right in between a single stage and a progressive

just the right price

quailty piece of gear

[Perro Del Diablo]

this is the one you want

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=814175&t=11082005

also invest in some X dies for the rifle cals
lee dies work great for pistol

[Phirebug]

totally +1 to what perro said. maybe +2. i have a lee classic cast single stage and i love it. Great for working up accuracy loads in .308. its only downfall is with pistol ammo, especially .357, which requires 3 dies instead of 2. every time you change a die, you have to set it up again. PITA. the turret press eliminates that by leaving all of the dies installed, but will still handle full size rifle loads. some progressives don't like the larger rifle calibers very much.

get yourself a hand priming tool. the primer on my press sucks. a lot of people swear by the lee auto-prime but i wasn't very impressed with mine. heard great things about the RCBS version, though. this will save you so much time it's like cheating.

if you load for multiple calibers, go to the dollar store and buy about a thousand different sealable, STACKABLE plastic boxes and some index cards. this will help you keep track of where your brass came from, how many times that batch has been reloaded, etc. if you stay organized, you will never have too many containers.

get a good scale and a powder measure. i have the lee perfect powder measure, from what i've heard, most of them are about the same. it's plenty accurate for everything but my most finnicky handloads. if i'm trying to shrink a group from 3/4" to 1/2", i measure every single charge. if i'm kicking out 500 rounds of .357, i measure about every 25th charge. after about 50 throws, i usually don't have to adjust it again for a long time.

case lube is handy. most of my reloading manuals say you don't need it if you have stainless steel dies, but it sure makes things easier, especially if you have to full length resize rifle brass.

oh yeah...reloading manuals!! if you just need some load recipes, they're all pretty good. Get a couple different ones. if you've never reloaded before, I highly recommend the ABC's of reloading.
http://www.amazon.com/Abcs-Reloading-Definitive-Novice-Expert/dp/0896896099/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1226541896&sr=8-1
It's written by Lee, so it plugs their products a little bit, but I like their products anyway. GREAT resource. Excellent illustrated step by step instructions, plus some of the history of cartridges, the science behind a lot of the stuff...very, very good read. Almost everybody that makes either bullets or powder publishes a reloading manual full of tested, proven loads. get a couple different ones and you'll never run out of recipes. there are also some software programs, but i'm not familiar with them.

This is a really, really fun hobby. It's to the point now I have as much fun reloading as I do shooting. I really don't save that much money, but I get to shoot a lot more, and I have a lot more fun doing it. Hope that helps.

[Perro Del Diablo]

the lee hand primer is great as suggested, but the press mounted one does work, you just need to watch closely how it works
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=807875

case lube is a MUST for rifle cals. .223 ESPECIALLY
if you buy carbide dies for pistol cals, you dont need case lube if its a straight wall like 9mm or 45 acp
im an electrician and get wire soap free, so consequently thats what i use, but its cheaper than case lube too. go to home depot in the electrical dept. and get a bottle of ideal brand yellow 77 wire soap
http://www.idealindustries.com/products/wire_installation/lubricants/yellow_77.jsp
works every bit as good as the most expensive case lubes out there
rub a little on your fingers and coat the piece of brass with your fingers and resize it WET with the wire soap
you will have to tumble the yellow 77 off later.

i have an old frankford arsenal tumbler that has lasted me YEARS. it looks nothing like this one, but im sure this one works the same
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=587176&t=11082005

buy some english walnut lizard bedding from petco for tumbler media. you can get a 10 pound bag SUPER cheap. same stuff that the big names sell for tumbling cases, but without rouge added. lasts a LONG time
http://www.petco.com/product/102881/Zilla-Ground-English-Walnut-Shells-Reptile-Bedding.aspx

go buy some nu finish car polish from kmart - the liquid stuff in the tall bottle
http://nufinish.com/
add 1 capfull to your media and let the media run for 20 minutes in the tumbler before adding cases. i add 1 capful maybe every 3rd or 4th cycle

have your wife save your used bounce dryer sheets
cut them into 2x2 inch squares and dump them into the tumbler with the brass. It prevents the walnut dust from sticking to the inside of the case, and it cleans the grime off your walnut shells as you tumble

tip - dont worry about resizing pistol brass - not needed, so dont buy a case resizer for pistol brass

for rifle brass, use a cordless drill, and the lee case trimmer stuff. its cheap, and it will get your started - it works well. you can progress to better tools from there - but get the ball handle - trust me
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=476992&t=11082005

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=136199&t=11082005

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=107333&t=11082005

if youre going to be doing .223, .308, or 30 06 and you are going to be using military brass, you are going to run into crimped primers. these make seating new primers impossible until the crimp is removed. start out with the cheap lee chamfer tool. this will cut a chamfer on the outside of the case neck, and on the inside, and will cut a crimp out of primer pocket but its hard on the ole fingers after a while
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=389104


once you progress to high volume, bite the bullet and buy this - trust me, its worth it
http://www.dillonprecision.com/#/content/p/9/pid/25263/catid/8/Super_Swage_600

i like to clean the inside of the cases with an old nylon bristle g3 brush from a hk g3 cleaning kit - works great

get a dental pick to pick the walnut media out of the flash holes


if youre are reloading rifle cals like .223, get these dies - X dies
they keep the brass from stretching too much. stretching brass limits the amount of times you can reload your brass, and trimming rifle brass SUCKS
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=194698&t=11082005

then, you will want the lee factory crimp die (semi auto pistol, and rifle benefits from crimp die)
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=456506&t=11082005

also, definately get the reloading book mentioned above

thats a good start - it will get you going
ask any qs you may have

[Rocky]

Imho, Rcbs stuff works great, and anything that I have broke they just send right out, no questions asked and no charge great products and great support.


Rocky :rockon:

[Perro Del Diablo]

i almost forgot a few important pieces of the puzzle

get a case gauge. this will tell you if the reloaded round your machine produces is in spec or not

i wouldnt shoot any reloaded round without this
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=268983&t=11082005

and i forgot to give you link to scale, and powder measure
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=348753

to start out, you need a balance beam scale. it will give you SUPER precise measurement. i suggest the 505 or 502 - the scale is one area where you will wish you spent a bit more money
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=605320&t=11082005

this is a good book for load data including cast lead bullets and you get a cheap press - works good for depriming station, but dont expect to full length resize .223 on it for very long - works GREAT as a depriming station, or factory crimp station
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=480380&t=11082005

im sure ill remember more stuff later too - would like to hear what others suggest as well

[Genocide]

Thank you very much Perro! I'll definitely hit you up when I get around to buying all my reloading tools. :thumbup:

Is midway about the best place to get Primers and bullets?

I'm looking around to find some lead for future cast projects, what casting tools would you suggest to get started? I've got a large burner, cast iron pot and a cast iron biscuit mold to make ingots.

[robocop10mm]

+1 on what Perro said.

If you think you might want to get into volume loading take the plunge right into the Dillon RL-550. It will handle everything from .25 ACP to .30-06/7mm Rem mag. Longer cases can be a problem, but it will handle nearly anything you want to load.

As far as casting, get the Lyman cast bullet handbook for all the info you will ever need. I prefer a bottom pour pot and 4-6 cavity moulds. It does not take long to get into high volume casting and 1-2 cavity moulds severly handicap your production. If you use a lead ladle to pour from an open top pot you will get slightly rounded base edges on the bullets. Not necessarily a bad thing. It can make bullet seating a bit easier w/o the sharp edge at the base. I have been casting for nearly 25 years and could go on and on about my experiences. The number one thing to remember is make sure you have good ventillation when casting. When you go in for your anual physical exam ask your doctor to run a blood lead level test with the regular choleterol, etc testing. Your HMO will not care about the small fee attached (mine never does). Understand what the lead level means. Mine stays about 6 and I cast and shoot alot. I knew a competitive PPC shooter (2x national champ) that had a lead level of about 32. Doctor freaked out and barred her from indoor shooting ranges and started treatment. Generally a level below 20 is not cause for great concern. Above 30 is VERY dangerous. If you exercise normal precautions you should never have a problem. Always wash your hands WELL after handling bullets and potentially contaminated materials (fired brass) and do not stand near the melting pot when it is smoking from flux or imputities burning off. The smoke carries lead into the air. No smoke coming off the pot and there is little if any lead getting airborne.

[Hill Tap]

Lee Classic Cast Turret press.. I've never owned one but everyone praises them.

So I can only say that that would be a cost effective way to get started out because you're going to have a lot of start up costs since you imply that you have nothing.

I started on an ole Lyman Straight press, used it for years and still do when the need arises and it does. You can always use a straight press for something.

Later on, if you find that you enjoy and need to use your time more constructively you may think about a better, more efficient press. In that case, I chose the Dillon 550B.

AS for casting, the same applies. You're gone to be nickled and dimed to death so get ready. For starters get the basics. A Lee Magnum is what I chose to start with. And if you do buy a lead pot, by all means get one with a 20 lb capacity. Get yourself a #3 ladle, mold and an old cast iron muffen pan to pour your nuggets in. Six cavity molds make a lot of bullets in a short amount of time. Aluminum or Steel molds, both work fine but the higher number of mold cavities equals less time laboring.

If you choose a bottom pour lead pot, I would go either with RCBS or Lyman, again get at least a 20 lb pot!

Get some Loading manuals. More than one. Then keep looking to the internet for all the info that you can find on both, reloading and casting.

Hopefully you can locate someone close to you to help you along and give you some inside tips and options.

[Orlando]

Thanks for all the replys guys. This is the info I need, looks like I have some reading to do. Thanks again!

[Perro Del Diablo]

Is midway about the best place to get Primers and bullets?


that really depends on ALOT of things

usually you can find stuff cheaper elsewhere but there may be a LONG wait for it

patsreloading is usually very very cheap for components, but it takes FOREVER to get your stuff in the mail - dont believe the 1-3 weeks quoted on there website
http://www.patsreloading.com/patsrel/whatsnew.htm

wideners is a good place to get stuff at times
http://www.wideners.com/

natchez shooters supply can sometimes have good stuff
http://www.natchezss.com/

sometimes midway has the best deal. here is an example where midway works out (when they are in stock) with the free shipping this turns out to be the best deal for quality jacketed 9mm bullets. shipping can KILL you on bullets cause of the weight. ALSO, be aware that when ordering primers and powder that you will pay a hazmat fee, so to make reloading worthwhile, you need to max out your hazmat tag - google this topic
http://www.midwayusa.com:80/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=831403

[Phirebug]

i love midway to death, but on most components, given the hazmat fees for powder and primers, and the weight fee for lead, i still find most of the best deals down at my local gun store.

[GearShanty]

I keep an eye on Widners for bullets.

Primer and powders I buy locally. I don't store a lot, so I try to beat the hazmat fee.
I usually buy powder at the gun show.
And surprisingly, I've bought most of my primers at the pawn shop.

[Ransom Stoddard]

Good informational source > http://www.corbins.com/index.htm

[Planning]

i have been thinking about doing some reloading. i have always just given my brass to my friends that reload. i am afraid this time we may be in for the long haul and i am keeping my brass for a while, so i may just take up reloading for fun.

this thread needs to be a sticky with all the information it has. thanks.

hey, i had not really done much building of guns until i got to the cetme site and this one and watch you guys build all sorts of stuff. i figured i would give it a try. i really enjoy it much better than just buying a gun, look at it and shove it into a safe. i only wish i had started building guns years ago. so maybe i will start doing some reloading. ( i had assembled a few fal/l1a1/ar15 a few years ago, but that is not building)

[jerrymrc]

I LOVE my lee classic cast turret press. I was a single stage guy for years. Did not shoot enough pistol to want a progressive. I shoot allot more pistol now but like the ease that I change set ups with the turret.

[Hill Tap]

Forgot to mention.

You can see a Lee Classic Cast Turet in action on YouTube. Just do a search there.