View Full Version : Painting OD Wide Handguard
snapshot762
04-08-2007, 10:06 AM
I am looking to paint, or have painted an OD wide handguard. I remember over at cetmerifles that someone had used a spray-on truckbed liner.
What is the best paint to use for this? Painting green to black BTW.
nalioth
04-08-2007, 10:27 AM
Can't remember the name, but one of those fancy gun finishes literally bonds with the plastic of the forearm. Somebody will chime in with it.
LCPL 4
04-08-2007, 10:58 AM
I purchased my black wide forearm from another forum. Picked it up for $50 w/ bipod because tghe previous owner had drilled about 10 holes on each side of it for "ventilation". I filled with high heat epoxy, sanded, an then came back with a light coats of truck bedliner spray - Dupli-color from Autozone.
I stayed a couple of feet back and did short bursts passing back and forth. Make sure you clean the tip after a couple passes. I found it caked up on the end and will help to avoid splatter.
Sorry, don't have any pics at the moment but it blended very well. Hard to tell by sight a difference if you go lightly. You can tell a difference by touch however.
If you mess up or don't like it you can always take it off right after you paint it and it's still relatively wet.
richl
04-08-2007, 05:28 PM
go to your local hobby store and ask for RC spray paint for RC lexan body's . it has to be for lexan bodies and not for airplanes .( called RC finishes and there another made by tamyia as well as Patrica ). it will bond to plastic and be flat in finish when dry . just make sure to clean the hand guard real well beforehand . or another trick to try is get a can of crylon clear yes clear it will also Bond to the polycarbonate and when dry you should be able to use any paint to stick to it :icon_wink:
just a secrete of many eons of RC racing there
hope it helps ..........
rich
need anymore help just e mail me
jfowl31
04-08-2007, 06:24 PM
clean the stock with denatured alcohol before hand, and all the above methods should work well... you gotta make sure you get ALL the oils off or youll have a weak spot in the bond of the paint.
I use Rustoleum to paint my stocks, but I prep really well too... a lot of scuffing and cleaning... eventually I lightly sand everything to rough up the surface a bit, and I havent had any problems with paint chipping or flaking... even up around the sling clip where the metal rubs on the handguard... some scratches, but no flaking or chipping, and thats just 1 coat of poly to finish it off... Im sure a stronger paint, and no top coat would work well... especially if you put a piece of electrical tape on the sling clip so it wont wear it down.
nevada
04-08-2007, 07:10 PM
Krylon Fusion for plastic. I used it on my green wide forearm. Fantastic.
snapshot762
04-08-2007, 08:10 PM
Thanks for the replies guys, i'll have to look around and see what i can get for paint.
LostInTexas
04-08-2007, 10:17 PM
I second the krylon fusion. Cheap and easy to find, wally world carries it and fairly durable.
Geilt
04-09-2007, 12:56 PM
I am sold on Duracoat but if you don't have an airbrush or HVLP sprayer the Krylon Fusion option is a good second choice.
Regardless of which paint you use I can't stress enough how important it is to FULLY degrease and dry the piece being painted. Also be sure to overspray and work up to the final coverage through several thin coats letting each coat dry before applying the next.
Lon Moer
04-09-2007, 02:13 PM
Dye job with the RIT dye.
snapshot762
04-09-2007, 04:12 PM
Dye job with the RIT dye.
??? How does one go about this?
Geilt
04-09-2007, 04:45 PM
You use a higher concentration of dye and let the pieces soak until you get approximately the color you're looking for. I've heard of it being used on wood before but never plastic.
snapshot762
04-09-2007, 05:04 PM
Regular black RIT dye?
snapshot762
04-09-2007, 11:17 PM
How did i do? Before and after.
Geilt
04-10-2007, 11:57 AM
Looks good Snapshot. What ratio of dye to water did you use and how long did you let it soak?
My only concern would how it would hold up over time or what residue would wick out if it were wet and I was holding for a prolonged time (ie shooting in the rain).
snapshot762
04-10-2007, 01:32 PM
Actually, i didn't go with the RIT dye! ;) ;)
Geilt
04-10-2007, 01:46 PM
So that's a painted finish?
snapshot762
04-10-2007, 06:23 PM
Nope! Call me bubba, but that is the result of a couple of hours with a black Sharpie marker. Sounds stupid, i know, but if it seems to have worked really well! I let it cure overnight, and very little seems to rub off. I think that with a clear coat of poly, it might seal it up pretty good.
jfowl31
04-10-2007, 08:23 PM
you asked for it...
BUBBA!!!!!!!!!!!
No really though... why didnt you just paint it? Tell me you used a sharpie "mini"... Im trying to mentally picture this...
richl
04-10-2007, 08:45 PM
:lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2: :lol2:
been there. cant say i've done that ........
east fix for scratches.................
snapshot762
04-10-2007, 10:27 PM
you asked for it...
BUBBA!!!!!!!!!!!
No really though... why didnt you just paint it? Tell me you used a sharpie "mini"... Im trying to mentally picture this...
Okay, i did ask for that. what it boiled down to was i was sitting at home icing my back yesterday ( went to the chiropractor, sp?) being bored and kind of hurtin' and had read how a sharpie could be used for touch ups. I started where the metal meets the plastic towards the front of the forearm to see how it would look, kept going, and this was the result.
I figured if it didn't work, i could wipe the forearm down with denatured alcohol as you said, and start over with painting or using the RIT dye. Overall, i think it turned out pretty good for using nothing more than a marker.
I guess what it boiled down to was a combination of boredom, muscle relaxers, and what i had in the house to do the job. ( maybe the sharpie fumes had something to do with it too, i dunno.:blink: )
Lon Moer
04-12-2007, 01:23 PM
Here's a good set of instructions on the RIT dye job at; USC.45.com (http://myweb.cableone.net/jsheffi31/USC45%20Dying%20Method.htm)
Those instructions are for a full gun, use what volume you need for just your parts.
snapshot762
04-12-2007, 09:15 PM
Good info for the dye job. Interesting that dark green is mixed in with the black to keep the furniture from turning purple, which is what sharpie looks like after a few days of curing.
I got my hands on a can of Krylon Fusion and shot it with that, it does look much better. Hope you all can forgive my bubbaness! Won't happen again, i promise!
Geilt
04-13-2007, 09:35 AM
Better hope the Admins don't think of adding "Sharpie Master" under your username.
When I saw the results I thought they looked good but it did have a certain ink sheen on it. I would have never thought of a Sharpie. Although it makes sense... it comes off with denatured alcohol and Sharpies now come in a rainbow of colors.
I KNOW! We could call this "Mission Specific Finishing".
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