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Thread: Correct lube procedures

  1. #1
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    Correct lube procedures

    Folks,
    This may sound like a stupid question, but what is the proper way to lube a CETME? I ask this because I had some problems recently. I have a recently purchased CETME from Century, through Classic Arms of NC. When I first purchased this rifle I got a bolt gap of .008. I purchased a brand new bolt and carrier group from APEX and ended up with a bolt gap of .015 - sweet, right? I took it out this weekend to run a test-fire and here's how it ended up. The first three magazines, three rounds each, had no problems. The next series of test where with mags loaded with 10rds. The first mag showed reluctance to strip the first round. From here on out I had problems with the rifle not wanting to strip off the first round. Prior to firing this weapon I had cleaned it and lubed it using Tetra-Tech lube, which is definitly thicker than CLP! In addition to lubing the bolt rollers, I had lubed the inside of the reciever along the bolt rails. I did this along with lubing the bolt head.
    Would this excess lube have caused the problem? Are the CETME/hk91 series of rifles/ designed to take on everything? Are these weapons designed to be run dry? Should I only lube my CETME at the bolt rollers? Would this excess lube acount for it failing to strip off the first round? Whenever I pulled the bolt to the rear and let it slide home it would return VERY slowly. This occurred after firing only 15 rounds.
    Last edited by 2336; 02-22-2009 at 03:12 PM.

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    I usually run mine, as the AR15 guys say, wet. Mobil 1 coating the entire inside of the receiver, bolt carrier, bolt head, recoil spring, etc. Keeping the chamber and barrel dry. Not what the book calls for but have had no problems caused by excess lube even in 5 degree F weather. IIRC the military has found even in dusty conditions lube is good.
    Some receivers were filthy inside from the builder or had rust inhibitor inside so I'd clean the heck out of it (brake cleaner) then lube it up and see how she runs. If still having problems bent guide rod, ejector dragging on bolt assy, tight receiver, tight scope mount pinching the receiver or bent stock metal pinching the receiver can cause slow return to battery.
    Last edited by 86thecat; 02-20-2009 at 04:22 AM.

  3. #3
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    rustypirate's Avatar
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    The lube should not be an issue here.

    Personally I use a high-end grease on the bolt carrier lightly and only on the wear points. A little gun oil on the rollers and on the recoil spring.

    Just a dab of molly grease on the FCG parts.

    And that is it for lube.

    Like 86 stated, it is possibly a bent guide rod or something else causing the bolt carrier to bind. Remove the buttstock assembly and lower receiver assembly, then work the bolt back and forth in the receiver with your fingers to find where it is binding. If it moves freely, then reinstall just the butstock assembly and repeat the process. If it is still moving freely, then go ahead and reinstall the lower reciver and work the bolt to find the binding point.
    Some people are like a slinky...

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  4. #4
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    Did the gun run right with .008 bolt gap? Are you sure the new carrier is not
    longer and hitting the cocking handle?

  5. #5
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    i just bought one and had it pretty lubed after firing and cleaning. until i read the centme manuel on this site that implored very sparing use of lube and then only on the rollers and the exposed parts. i may have read it wrong, but it is there to read and it is very interesting. i even learned i had a cleaning kit under my bayo lug (empty).

  6. #6
    Senior Veteran wwIIBuff's Avatar
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    My 91 and 93 have more Lube in themthen a NY city street walker

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    I use white lithium grease on the bolt carrier and in the receiver. everything else is clp.
    USMC Uncle Sam's Misguided Children

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    I just got one from Classic Arms, and after disassembly and cleaning all the cosmoline out of every nook and cranny, I lubed it up with CLP by wiping down all surfaces with a couple of cleaning patches soaked in CLP.

    I didn't have any of the specific problems you had, fortunately, but I had a similar one with one of the 20 round magazines that I had. This one also wobbled.

    The right magazine lip was slightly higher than the left one (or maybe the left one is too low), on that particular magazine.

    This could cause the bolt head to brush against the magazine lip, and basically not "slam" home. It just inched along after pulling the charging handle. It would not even feed the first round.

    I guess check the magazines, and how deeply they seat? It looks like the bands along the magazine determine how deeply and how well they seat, and this may also affect the return of the bolt.

    I'm sorry you're having problems with yours. I need to get some decent magazines.

  9. #9
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    What kind of mags came with yours? I ask because the only mag I've had trouble with is a NOS (new/old stock) CETME mag. The thing is parkerized and the spring is so tight it didn't want to strip rounds too well. It finally started working after I lightly sanded the ammo contact points to smooth it up.
    It always looks darkest.....just before it goes totally black.
    COG# 11M1P

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    drine,
    I was using NOS steel CETME mags. Today I took the rifle apart and tried some diagnostics. Using just the upper receiver, I inserted several mags (2 CETMEs and 4 G-3s - 2 steel and 2 aluminum) and using just the bolt and bolt carrier I determined that the bolt isn't contacting the mag, the bolt only hit the mag follower, not the feed lips - verified visually. I then removed the mag and attached the FCG/trigger pack and ran the bolt/bolt carrier back and forth. I noticed no undue drag as it cycled back and forth working the ejector. I then removed the FCG/trigger pack and removed the bolt head and ran the bolt carrier alone back and forth. Using just the bolt carrier I felt noticeable drag when cycling it, this was true for the original and new bolt carriers. Once I re-installed the bolt head this drag disappeared for both units! I then completely re-assembled the rifle and ran the bolt back and forth several times. The only time I could feel any drag or resistance is when the bolt and carrier was at it's most rearward position. At this point I don't know what might be wrong other than a weak recoil spring.
    As I understand, these rifles need a certain "break-in" period once Century builds them. With that being said, I'll try it tomorrow and see what we get. Oh, before I forget - just visually, it appears that there is no evidence of the bolt carrier hitting the cocking handle tube. With the bolt in battery and everything tight there is a bit of wiggle room between the bolt carrier rod and the cocking handle. This is true for both bolt head and carrier units that I have!
    I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

    Rickey

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