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Thread: fitting trigger housing question

  1. #1
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    fitting trigger housing question

    Im fittting the trigger housing to the reciever and the trigger cage wont allow the housing to fully seat in the up position. It lools like stock needs to come off the cage or the reciever. where is the best place to remove the stock from. the housing is about .08" from going home in the up position. Im thinking that I should remove stock the the slots on the bottom of the cage, where it sits on the tabs in the housing. that way all the other relationships will stay the same.

  2. #2
    Veteran texlurch's Avatar
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    Where are you measuring from for "up"? Are you using the CETME or the G3 trigger pack? Remove the pack and just put the grip housing on, does it fit any better?
    There is always room for another AK or 1911.

    As with anything car or gun related, your results may vary!

    "There has been a disturbing increase in things I know nothing about."

    Mr. Obama: I'll keep my freedom, hard earned cash, and my guns.... you Sir, can keep the Change!
    COG# 182, USMC, ret., Upstanding member of WECSOG كافر

  3. #3
    Veteran texlurch's Avatar
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    Is this the area you are referring to? It doesn't have to go flush with the curve on the receiver, as long as the stock pin holes are lined up, and the ejector is riding high enough on the bolt.

    Ideally you want the lines to be close and parallel.

    The grip housing should overlap the sides of the receiver, the pack should butt tight against the bottom.
    There is always room for another AK or 1911.

    As with anything car or gun related, your results may vary!

    "There has been a disturbing increase in things I know nothing about."

    Mr. Obama: I'll keep my freedom, hard earned cash, and my guns.... you Sir, can keep the Change!
    COG# 182, USMC, ret., Upstanding member of WECSOG كافر

  4. #4
    rustypirate
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    If you are using a cast receiver, I have found that all of the ones I have built needed to be filed on the outside of the receiver along the sides of where the lower grip frame mates to the receiver to work. They were all a little bowed out in this area. I have also needed to file down a little on the nubbs sticking down into this area as well.

  5. #5
    Perro
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    special weapons used to machine the receiver on these if you got a cast

    they are cast, so they are larger/thicker than a mil spec stamped and its finish machined before sending it out - unfortunately century doesnt take the time to do that stuff to there guns.

    mill the bottom of the cast receiver cause it is the part out of spec, not the fire control box

  6. #6
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    so your saying that they did mill them but not to the correct dimensions? so I will set up and take more off the bottom of the reciever where they milled it already. thanks for the input because I was going to assume they milled it to spec and had to modify the cage. Thanks Perro
    Last edited by roland3; 04-15-2007 at 06:18 PM.

  7. #7
    Veteran texlurch's Avatar
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    Before you cut anything, verify the ejector is riding up in the slot of the bolt carrier.

    Worse thing would be to take off too much on the bottom, and need to raise it later.
    There is always room for another AK or 1911.

    As with anything car or gun related, your results may vary!

    "There has been a disturbing increase in things I know nothing about."

    Mr. Obama: I'll keep my freedom, hard earned cash, and my guns.... you Sir, can keep the Change!
    COG# 182, USMC, ret., Upstanding member of WECSOG كافر

  8. #8
    Perro
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    nope
    what im saying is special weapons initially made the mold for the cast receivers
    they popped the cast receiver out of the mold, and finish machined them to fit (in several areas)
    The special strapons guns sold for around 1k though

    later, century arms begins the production of there stuff using the same dies, and since they sold there guns for half that price - around 500, you didnt get a whole lot of professional fitting for the price.


    you got a casting that needs finish machined basically

    pay REAL close attention to the mag release area as well
    pop a mag into the magwell with your bolt locked into battery and look through the hole where your mag catch installs to - does the hole of the receiver match the hole of a new unused STEEL mag?? if not, make it, and this is a HIGH PROBLEM area with these guns, so measure 5 times and cut once

  9. #9
    Perro
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    i should add that USUALLY the mag isnt allowed to go far enough into the receiver to lock up perfectly

    most people fire up a belt sander and remove metal off the bottom of the cast magwell till it just fits

    to do it professionally, obviously youre going to want to use a machine tool with leadscrews for a precise amount of material removed per pass

    usually the magwells are too long on the cast receivers, so remove the material on the bottom of the magwell until the mag stops on a NEW STEEL mag come to rest on the bottom of the magwell where it ligns the catch on the side of the mag up with the hole for the mag catch

    make sense?

  10. #10
    Veteran texlurch's Avatar
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    Also watch for the block at the rear of the magwell where they made the shelf.
    Sometimes these are not in the exact right spot and stop the mag from rotating all the way back.
    There is always room for another AK or 1911.

    As with anything car or gun related, your results may vary!

    "There has been a disturbing increase in things I know nothing about."

    Mr. Obama: I'll keep my freedom, hard earned cash, and my guns.... you Sir, can keep the Change!
    COG# 182, USMC, ret., Upstanding member of WECSOG كافر

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