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Thread: A neat jig

  1. #1
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    A neat jig

    The idea for this arose from discussing stocks and grips with Big Steve
    Attachment 13886

    In use:
    Attachment 13887

    I used it to mark out screw holes on 6 grips, still got two of them in the wrong place. Part of the problem is that I need the jig a little wider than the grip thickness to get the nylon screw into the underside of the screw hole, and this translates to slop. I also made the jig wide enough to accomodate my thickest blank, and that allows some slop into the equation. I think I'll try making another that has an adjustable width (because using the same thickness blanks everytime is just out of the question )

    This is what one of the "off" holes looks like:
    Attachment 13888
    When they're off top to bottom I can usually adjust the wood to metal junction to line it back up, but side to side like this, just plain out of luck.

  2. #2
    Senior Veteran bladeworks123's Avatar
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    I use a jig for drilling holes in hidden tang knife scales. Same principle as a pistol grip like this. The bottom plate fits snug inside the grip and is marked for the correct height position (x), you slide the bottom plate into the grip and the top plate is on a single pivot and rotates into position to the correct (Y) position.
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    Senior Veteran bladeworks123's Avatar
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    Or, on your jig, thread the hole in the top of your jig and screw in a pointed center marking point. (screw with a point ground on it) Put your bottom plate up tight and flush against the inside of the frame and screw the point down into the wood, center punching the grip directly over the grip hole.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bladeworks123 View Post
    Or, on your jig, thread the hole in the top of your jig and screw in a pointed center marking point. (screw with a point ground on it) Put your bottom plate up tight and flush against the inside of the frame and screw the point down into the wood, center punching the grip directly over the grip hole.
    I'm thinking of doing exactly that, the more I think about it the more I like it.

    I'm also thinking of putting a set screw further up towards the top of the grip frame that will bear against the metal on the inside and keep the whole thing parallel to the frame. Maybe I'll add another screw on the top plate, halfway between the screws on the bottom plate to pinch the wood before I mark the hole.

    The neat thing is, I could use this jig or a similar one on pistol grips too, as long as I can keep the jig parallel to the frame.

  5. #5
    Militant Asshole Big Steve's Avatar
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    The only thing that could get the hole off using your jig is if everything is not parallel. As long as your square hole is parallel to the outer surface of the blank could you not just use parallel shims between the jig and the blank to square it up?

    Steve

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    Quote Originally Posted by Big Steve View Post
    The only thing that could get the hole off using your jig is if everything is not parallel. As long as your square hole is parallel to the outer surface of the blank could you not just use parallel shims between the jig and the blank to square it up?

    Steve
    The trouble is that the nylon locating screw that sets in the hole for the grip screw is too long, or rather the taper on it is too long. So the bottom bit of aluminum doesn't rest against the inside of the grip frame, and tilting is possible. I could just file it down a little, but its already a little tough to be sure when I've got it hooked into the hole. So that's why I came up with the set screws. Bladeworks got me thinking with his post about making the marking pin a screw rather than a punch.

    That spare frame is really handy by the way, thanks!

  7. #7
    Senior Veteran bladeworks123's Avatar
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    On my scale/handle jig, the bottom pin is a roll pin sized to fit inside the pin hole or screw hole without any slop. That allows you to always get the jig tight up against the blade or frame in your case. The top screw is always centered over that pin. That way there is no need to make sure anything is parallel. If the pin is in the hole beneath, the set screw is always centered exactly over it. Slide your finished grip into position, put the bottom pin through the threaded screw hole and flush up against the frame and tighten the top screw down to center mark your hole on top. I have five, one each made for handle pins sized from 1/16 up to 5/16 inch. Never misses by more than about 1/64 of an inch. You would not need to mark the depth like I do because you only have a single pre existing hole you are trying to mate to, I am marking the location on my blade, drilling a hole there and then matching two other holes top and bottom.
    I have loaned them out for another knife maker to copy. Wanted to post pics earlier, but will when I get them back, if you cant saavy my description.
    What you have there will work the same, just replace your nylon screw with a roll pin to fit in the frame screw hole and thread your top hole and put in a socket head allen screw sharpened to a point in your drill press. I also have a pair of eight inch jaw needle nose pliers with holes and pins through the end of the jaws which I use for thinner material like small folding knife scales up to about 1/8 inch thick.
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