Bolt Gap - Cocking tube gap check for builders and buyers.

**toku58** · 01-02-2012, 01:50 AM

Thanks for the reply guys! I was just wondering if there was a "Magic number" that the factory set these rifles at? I'm still undecided if I'm ever going to fire this rifle.

**Lampoon** · 01-25-2012, 05:05 PM

Hey Guys !
This is my 1st post here. I've been doing alot of reading here and have learned a ton about the Cetme from all of you.
The one I have has 0 bolt gap and maybe .001 CT gap. The bolt has not been ground and is 1.834mm .
The carrier is 10.89" and looks to have been filed at the front. My rollers are 7.97mm. Locking piece is a 50
and looks really good. Should I get +2 or +4 rollers or both to try to get the best head space ?
Lampoon

**97th Signalman** · 01-25-2012, 06:55 PM

Originally Posted by Lampoon

Hey Guys !
This is my 1st post here. I've been doing alot of reading here and have learned a ton about the Cetme from all of you.
The one I have has 0 bolt gap and maybe .001 CT gap. The bolt has not been ground and is 1.834mm .
The carrier is 10.89" and looks to have been filed at the front. My rollers are 7.97mm. Locking piece is a 50
and looks really good. Should I get +2 or +4 rollers or both to try to get the best head space ?
Lampoon

Plus fours would certainly be appropriate. Also, check to make sure you have adequate cocking piece clearence. I would check that after swapping rollers but some say you should check the cocking piece gap first. You have a long way to go in terms of bolt gap so you might need a new locking piece and perhaps even a new bolt head.

**Lampoon** · 01-26-2012, 06:55 PM

Thanks 97th,
I will try the +4 rollers 1st and then adjust the CT gap.
I'll let you know how things end up.
Lampoon

**ilivas** · 02-06-2012, 11:37 PM

I'm not sure what to do now. I have a CAI Cetme. I've replaced my bolt carrier (cetme), cocking tube support(g3), cocking handle (g3), and cocking handle spring (g3) with brand new parts. I found out that my original bolt carrier had been ground a few mm. My bolt gap is .014 so I haven't replaced my bolt head since it seems that I have good bolt gap. The cocking handle has been incredibly hard to charge, and the cocking handle only comes out a little. Not near 1/2 in. as stated in the guide. The cocking handle is also very hard to pull out. I'm pretty sure I don't have any cocking tube gap as well. I did not replace the bolt head, as it is the correct length.

Notice how I have very little gap in cocking handle.

Thanks in advance.

**bladeworks123** · 02-06-2012, 11:50 PM

If you do not have any cocking tube gap, then that means your bolt gap is most likely false, your bolt gap is being created by the bolt carrier coming to rest on the cocking handle support. Remove your cocking handle support and then check your bolt gap, if it is still .014 then you will need to trim some off of the end of your carrier to get CT gap. If your bolt gap is low without the cocking handle support then do whatever you need to do to get good bolt gap,,,larger rollers etc. Your old bolt carrier was most likely trimmed off to achieve CT gap. But first things first..... You need to make absolutely sure the bolt gap of .014 that you are seeing is good and not being created by the carrier hitting against the cocking handle support. It is hard to lever back because you have no CT gap, once you get everything set it should lever back just fine. A new lever should pull out about 3/8 to 1/2 an inch before hitting resistance if the cocking tube gap is correct. 3/4 of an inch would be too much.

**ilivas** · 02-07-2012, 02:39 AM

I remove the cocking handle support, and cocking handle,and reassembled everything else. I'm not sure how to check the bolt gap without the cocking handle/support to cock it and let it slam back per your instructions. I stuck a punch in the slot, and tried to pull back, but it's pretty much stuck there.

**Lampoon** · 02-12-2012, 07:05 PM

Hey I'm back for more advice guys.
Well I tried my new +4 rollers and still no gap.
So after reading and searching more threads it looks like my bolt is hitting the trunion.
My best friend got the gun over at FAC about 8 years ago so it can't be returned.This is one with the cast stainless receiver.
We each shot a couple rounds and put it away because it kicked like a mule. Good thing we didn't shoot it anymore.
Is there anyone in MN or western Wisconsin that has done barrel pressing?
Lampoon

**bladeworks123** · 02-13-2012, 08:05 PM

Originally Posted by ilivas

I remove the cocking handle support, and cocking handle,and reassembled everything else. I'm not sure how to check the bolt gap without the cocking handle/support to cock it and let it slam back per your instructions. I stuck a punch in the slot, and tried to pull back, but it's pretty much stuck there.

Use a small flat blade screwdriver between the bolt head and carrier and it will come open. Wedge the tip of the screwdriver between the bolt head and carrier and give it a twist. It will unlock your carrier. It's OK to check the gap without the recoil spring holding the bolt shut. just make sure you slam the bolt home when you install it in the receiver and give it a couple of light taps from the rear to make sure it is fully seated. Then check the gap.

Sorry you had to wait so long for a reply, for some reason it didn't pop up when I logged in until today.

**Weldmeister** · 05-29-2013, 10:38 PM

Hello everyone! This is my first post to the forum. I have a CETME a friend gave me for helping him out with settling his brother's estate. This rifle is tremendously difficult to cock. Originally the bolt gap was about nothing. I got a set of +4 rollers and the gap increased to .007". I installed a set of +6 rollers and now the bolt gap is .009". The cocking tube gap is .068". The bolt head measures 1.830". The bolt carrier has been ground off at the front, where the cocking handle cams on it. From what I have been reading, I think that I need to lengthen my bolt carrier to get about .024" cocking tube gap. Can I just TIG weld up the bolt carrier and then machine it back to the proper length, or am I missing something? With a dime inserted as per this discussion, the bolt pull feels about like a HK91 I used to shoot. Doesn't bind or anything after you get it off of its "seat". Thank you Bladeworks for you excellent tutorial on this! I see that your info box says you are out west in Colorado. So am I! I am up in Craig.