Read the whole post, to understand the ground bolt head issue, but if you look at the pics in post #11, it will show you the correct length for your bolt head should be 1.847 on your C91, If you can't tell if it has been ground the best way is to measure it. Hk Bolt heads are longer than the CETME, so again, watch for which measurements you are looking for to get the right one.
Last edited by bladeworks123; 09-13-2011 at 12:26 AM.
Ok, removed the cocking handle, not sure how to make sure it locked all the way. Dropped in 3 times made sure it was all the way forward. " did not tap it with anything other than my hand though" All three times the bolt gap was .009. As far as the carrier, I called RTG and they don't sell the bolts seperate anymore or right now. A used bolt on HKparts is 100 bucks. RTG has the whole assembly starting at 149.
Last edited by bladeworks123; 09-13-2011 at 12:46 AM.
Ok you guys have been great. I redid the check and still got .009. I'm going to go ahead and order a whole new carrier and bolt assy.. The only question I have is since I never tore my HK down this far, should I go with +4 or +6? My understanding is it's supposed to be up to .020. Is .015 the sweet spot and will +4 get me there? RTG has up to +6 rollers. And should I buy spares? How long do rollers last?
+4's will get you close, if you have standard rollers in there now. I think that .014 to .018 is a real good range to be in. Keep in mind that a new locking piece and bolt head that comes with your new bolt carrier assembly will add some bolt gap also, but you will loose a little gap on new parts as they wear in. There is no real way to give an accurate guess when you will be changing out everything but the trunnion. I would get the +4's and the +6's, try them and see where you end up. You will never be "stuck" with new Hk Parts. As far as how long they will last...several thousands of rounds, if the gun is properly maintained. And while you are ordering parts, go ahead and get yourself a new cocking handle spring , and even think about a new cocking handle carrier assembly, since you know yours has been getting hammered on by the carrier. If you are going to go this far you just as well do it up right and go for the full enchilada.
Ok I will, I prefer to do things right the first time. I will post back after I get the new parts and let you know where I end up. Again thanks for the help.
Drine, I am a little mystified about locking and unlocking the bolt with no cocking handle place. Do you just push the bolt/carrier assembly forward when assempling the rifle? If it isn't flying forward driven by the spring, will it go fully into battery? If you install the buttstock assembly and pull the trigger to test bolt gap, how do you get the bolt unlocked and open with out the leverage of the cocking handle to unlock the bolt? I am sure that I am missing something here.
Last edited by 97th Signalman; 09-13-2011 at 08:32 AM.
97th Signal Bn, 7th Army Main Communications, Germany, 1960-63
"how do you get the bolt unlocked and open with out the leverage of the cocking handle to unlock the bolt? "
Remove the butt stock and press a thin bladed screwdriver into the gap to unlock the bolt.
Ok, finally got batterys for my calipers. My bolt head is perfect for a G3 1.845 in. My rollers however are small. They both measure 7.94, so is that -6 rollers and should I get standard 8's instead of plus 4's? I measured and zero'd my caliper at least 5 times, everytime I got 7.94 mm so that's acurate. And with those I have .009 bolt gap and no ct gap.
Last edited by wrathsworld; 09-14-2011 at 05:28 PM.