Just got my Limited Edition CETME

**silverbear** · 09-17-2011, 12:10 AM

Here are the pics!
2011-09-16 18.57.24.jpg 2011-09-16 18.57.42.jpg 2011-09-16 18.58.21.jpg 2011-09-16 18.58.58.jpg 2011-09-16 18.59.18.jpg 2011-09-16 19.12.49.jpg 2011-09-16 19.16.24.jpg 2011-09-16 21.52.58.jpg 2011-09-16 22.28.05.jpg

Questions & issues so far:

1) 2/3 of the G3 mags I tried don't fit: http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum...into-the-cetme Seems like the issue might be to file down the front of the mag well in the receiver. this makes me nervous.
2) The inside of the cocking tube has lots of scarring on it (see pictures). What's that all about? Picture attached at bottom

3) It looks like there is a handy little gap here:
2011-09-16 19.04.47.jpg

Does this mean that I can just drop a mag release paddle right in without any gunsmithing?

Let me know what you guys think of the rifle.

Total price was $711 shipped. Supposedly never been fired. Let me know if we need more pics.

**silverbear** · 09-17-2011, 01:46 PM

Originally Posted by silverbear

3) It looks like there is a handy little gap here:
2011-09-16 19.04.47.jpg

Does this mean that I can just drop a mag release paddle right in without any gunsmithing?

Based on this post:
http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum...ghlight=paddle

It seems like I can just replace the current mag release hardware without doing any modification to the receiver at all!! IS this correct? What do I need?

**bladeworks123** · 09-17-2011, 02:40 PM

Yes, what you will need is a bushing for the paddle mag to rotate on a 1/8 pin that is drilled through only one side of the receiver, and halfway only through the other side. (BATF rules) then the pin has to be welded in. I haven't seen the kits that were being sold for this conversion in a while, not sure who might have them. we do our own with a receiver bushing, a and receiver pin on a metric pin.

**silverbear** · 09-17-2011, 04:07 PM

Originally Posted by bladeworks123

Yes, what you will need is a bushing for the paddle mag to rotate on a 1/8 pin that is drilled through only one side of the receiver, and halfway only through the other side. (BATF rules) then the pin has to be welded in. I haven't seen the kits that were being sold for this conversion in a while, not sure who might have them. we do our own with a receiver bushing, a and receiver pin on a metric pin.

Darn, I was hoping since it already had the slot cut out I could just replace a part. This has become low priority (gotta get the mags to fit first

**bladeworks123** · 09-17-2011, 07:04 PM

They have the kits over at HkParts.net

http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/Mag-P...s-128p2194.htm

**kagans** · 09-17-2011, 09:33 PM

Have you checked your bolt gap yet?

**silverbear** · 09-17-2011, 09:59 PM

Originally Posted by bladeworks123

They have the kits over at HkParts.net

http://www.hkparts.net/shop/pc/Mag-P...s-128p2194.htm

I have no confidence in my ability to do this at this point.

**silverbear** · 09-17-2011, 10:06 PM

Originally Posted by kagans

Have you checked your bolt gap yet?

I followed the directions in the sticky (slap the cocking lever and let everything fly forward, right?) Looks like .011

**silverbear** · 09-19-2011, 11:47 AM

Cocking tube gap
Ok, just measured the cocking tube gab as prescribed here (http://www.militaryfirearm.com/Forum...ers-and-buyers.), and it seems like its a little too large:

2011-09-19 10.16.30.jpg

I also performed the 2nd time test (dropping it into the cocking tube) but that didn't seem to affect things one way or another in terms of making it easy to charge.

A few notes:
1) After slapping the bolt all the way forward and pulling the trigger, its pretty firm trying to pull the cocking lever up. It only comes up a very small amount (see pic below) before I encounter resistance:
2011-09-19 10.22.18.jpg

2) After that first time though, it pulls away with the greatest of ease

3) This gun is supposedly brand new and never fired. perhaps it needs to be "broken in" and I am worry about nothing?

Bolt Gap
I re-measured the bolt gap and I think .010 or .009 is more accurrate. I can get a .008 in with zero resistance. A .009 will go in and there is just a whisper of resistance as I pull it out. A .010 has firmer resistance as I pull it out. Goes in fairly smooth, but I have to apply just a tiny, tiny bit of pressure.
2011-09-19 10.27.56.jpg

Again, the gun has supposedly never been fired so it hasn't been broken in yet. Not sure what affect that would have on cocking tube/bolt gap though.

**silverbear** · 09-19-2011, 01:27 PM

The bolt gap seems to be in the acceptable range (even if its .009), but the cocking tube gap may be too high (i tried to line the tape up as best I could). Is the gun still at least safe to fire at this point?