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Thread: Removing the Century Muzzle Brake

  1. #1
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    Removing the Century Muzzle Brake

    In light of the fact that we recently lost all of our technical forum stickies, I thought I might document my experience changing out the CAI "loudener" (muzzle brake) on my CETME just in case anybody else needed to see how it's done. The pics are kinda bad because I couldnt find my camera so I took these on my phone. Hopefully next time somebody decides to remove their brake they will take better pics and we can replace mine with their's.



    1: LOCATING THE PIN

    The first step is to locate the pin that holds the brake onto the rifle. Turn the barrel to the 6 o'clock position and make a mark about a quarter inch from the bottom of the brake. Using a dremel tool or something similar, SLOWLY grind down into it, checking frequently to see if the pin has been located. You shouldn't have to grind down very far at all before you see a faint black circle in the middle of the grind; that is the pin.
    The pin is not very tall at all, so make sure you do not grind too far, otherwise you will grind right through it and into the barrel.





    2: REMOVING THE PIN

    After the pin has been located, it must be removed. There really isn't anything holding it in there, so removing it is pretty easy. One method is to tap on the brake lightly until the pin starts to back out. Another way is to put a dot of super glue on the end of a punch, place the end of the punch on the pin head, let it set, and simply pull it out.
    I used a magnet to pull mine out. Just put the magnet right over the pin and after a few tries it should come out pretty easily.



    3: REMOVING THE BRAKE

    Now for the hard part. After the pin is removed, it is time to twist off the brake. I believe Perro's method was to use a monkey wrench and torque it off, and others suggested sticking a long handled screwdriver through the muzzle brake holes and twisting it off. This works for some, but all i accomplished was breaking a screwdriver in half and the monkey wrench didn't do jack for me either.



    Another popular method is to use a dremel cutting disk (or something similar) and cut through the holes on 2 sides of the brake to within about a quarter inch of the barrel. BE CAREFUL NOT TO CUT INTO THE BARREL ITSELF. CUT SLOWLY AND CHECK YOUR PROGRESS FREQUENTLY. Then, use a large screwdriver or a chisel and split the brake in half. This should loosen the brake enough to twist off.





    After that, simply twist on your replacement muzzle attatchment. Viola!



    Here's mine after I finished:



    As you can see, not only does it look more original, it allows the bayonet to fit better as well. Hope this helps everbody.



    The flash hider I used was a US made one from SSwee, a member of this board. I would highly recommend you purchase one of his flash hiders if you are thinking about replacing your brake.
    Last edited by hunter_la5; 03-24-2007 at 12:11 AM.

  2. #2
    Ol'30 Grit jfowl31's Avatar
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    not bad at all... I need to get back in touch with SSWEE, and see if he can make me a custom tapped size. I think Im just about convinced to take mine off, and measure the threads under there.

    I dunno, Im still on the fence......... I like the noise sometimes, and sometimes I grow tired of hearing my hunting buddies complain when I blow their rifle off target when I shoot next to them into a herd of pigs.
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  3. #3
    rustypirate
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    Great job on that post Hunter!

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    Any chance of this getting sticky'd?

    Ive got one of Sswee's FH's in, going to be putting it on my CETME. Will take good pics if people like.

    -E

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    Senior Veteran Smokehouse69's Avatar
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    I want one for my build, anybody got Sswee's contact info?
    COG Member #1069

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    hes here on the forum, user name Sswee. Answers PM pretty fast usually.

    -E

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    Quote Originally Posted by Enigma Nostra View Post
    Will take good pics if people like.
    If you can take some better pics for me, you can send them to me and I will replace my blurry one's with yours

  8. #8
    Veteran Enscribe's Avatar
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    I know this is an old thread but I just wanted to add my pics if this process. I changed my Century break a while back and replaced with the Spanish FH. I used a draw file to get it down a bit then a dremel to get the rest of the pin.
    Then changed out some parts and needed more 922r so I got a Type53 IGF FH (I know it's really long, I would prefer a sswee version later). I got it cheap locally and put that on last night. My Spanish break was on there good and showed signs of rusting? I couldn't twist it off and decided to try and split it. Had to look this up to see how it's done. I ended up splitting one side off and using pliers to get a good hold on it and twist it off. I cleaned the poo out of it and treated with Barricade spray then coated with a thin layer of oil and installed the new one. The rust I think may be a result of living in the Pacific NW, with a high concentration of sea spray in the air, and me not treating it as such since I moved here. I have seen lots of my tools start to rust since I've been here.
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    I had to bust my Century brake off like that too. Went to the trouble of removing the pin, then couldn't unscrew the brake.

    What about some of that thread anti-seize stuff, its aluminum powder in some kind of grease.

  10. #10
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    I did the dremel method. I cut clear thru on both sides where I could see all the way thru the brake. When I got to where the barrel and threads started I raised my cut to a depth just above the barrel. I made identical cuts on both sides. Once this was done I wedged a large screwdriver between the cuts on the brake itself where it was cut all the way thru. The brake spread apart about 1/4 inch or less with some hammer tapping on the screwdriver and then popped and dropped from the barrel in two pieces. I used some vise grip needle nose pliers to pull the pin out of the hole.
    You just will half to take care when you are cutting the brake where it goes on the barrel not to cut past the depth of the brake or you'll cut into the barrel threads. The brake metal appears to be brittle and the thin,remaining piece you've left on the threads will pop apart when pressure is applied to separete the other end of the brake.This worked good for me but do whatever method your comfortable with.This is assuming they didn't silver solder or weld the brake to the barrel on the very end of it. The weld marks will be visible if they did that.

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