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Thread: Starting my stock re-finish.

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    Starting my stock re-finish.

    Getting ready to start on my stock. Going to do it in my spare time which isn't much. I'll post pics as I go.

    Built a little working/drying stand. The dowel fits right in the buffer hole.

    stainstand.jpg
    Last edited by scottz63; 01-09-2016 at 01:43 AM.
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    Looks pretty handy

    Be a little careful in refinishing G3 stocks - though usually described as walnut, all that I've seen are either birch or some mahogany relative with a fairly heavy red stain. So if you like the color, a light touch in refinishing is a good idea.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdowney View Post
    Looks pretty handy
    Thank you.

    And thanks for the tip. I do plan on doing a light re-finish. I want to keep some of the "character" marks in it, not a perfectly smooth, dent/ding free surface. I do plan on using red mahogany stain though. I like a darker color with a little red in it.

    What do you prefer for a finish? I want to use either BLO or Tru-Oil. Not sure which one yet.

    Edit: Now if I could just get my hands on one of those awesome jdowney wood grips, I would be set. Lol!
    Last edited by scottz63; 01-01-2016 at 06:17 PM.
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    I use this stuff called Waterlox, it's a tung oil/phenolic resin varnish. I prefer the sealer/finish as it's nice and thin making it an excellent wiping varnish. It does need a base of something a bit heavier unless you want to do 15-20 coats.

    The only time I tried some tru-oil, it behaved similarly to Waterlox, though perhaps a bit more viscous. I believe it is either a modified linseed or a soy oil, don't remember which. Nice thing about tru-oil is they sell it in small enough quantities for just a stock or two. Waterlox comes in quarts and gallons, and does not have a good shelf life once opened.

    BLO will generally not give you as much of a gloss finish, though it does depend on brand. Some have driers added that helps it form a film like a varnish. I usually only use it as a color coat on walnut since it darkens nicely after a couple days - so I've not tried to get a final finish out of it often. It can certainly be done though.

    I sent RTG 8 grips along with a bunch of PSG1's. Got another 36 in the works, should be delivering in Feb.

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    I think I will go with Tru-Oil. I do belive it is linseed oil based. I have never used it but will give it a shot.

    So you already sent out 8 standard wood grips to RTG? I will keep my eye out for them.
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    Senior Veteran seasmoke's Avatar
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    +1 for the Waterlox, good stuff. Waterlox can be used as either a hard finish or an soft oil finish
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    Questions about the sling mount. I would like to remove it for re-finishing. How difficult is this to do? Does it press out and press back in? Is it even recommended to do this? I don't want to damage the stock.

    slingmount.jpg
    Last edited by scottz63; 01-02-2016 at 07:54 AM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottz63 View Post
    Questions about the sling mount. I would like to remove it for re-finishing. How difficult is this to do? Does it press out and press back in? Is it even recommended to do this? I don't want to damage the stock.

    slingmount.jpg
    To remove it you have to cut the flare off the two tube rivets that hold it in. Then you have to find two new tube rivets and figure out a method to re-flare them while installed in the stock.

    3/8" steel brake line is about the right size, and I have managed to use a bench vise to flare the second end, but a hydraulic press would really be the way to go.

    I used to just leave the plate in when possible and repaint it by masking around it once the refinish is done and spray it with black paint. I like the Krylon high temp paint, it dries nice and flat.

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    Quote Originally Posted by jdowney View Post
    I used to just leave the plate in when possible and repaint it by masking around it once the refinish is done and spray it with black paint. I like the Krylon high temp paint, it dries nice and flat.
    That sounds good and is exactly what I am going to do. Thank you.
    Last edited by scottz63; 01-02-2016 at 11:05 AM.
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    Does the 3/8's brake line still allow the buttstock pins to be placed in there when dis-assembling the rifle so as not ot lose them?

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