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Thread: Brought home a new C308

  1. #41
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    Before going in today I pulled the trigger pack apart. I made a couple of swipes with the stone just to see what things looked like; a moon crater would be the best way to describe it. The sear face wasn't too bad, but the hammer was another story. The 2 surfaces were stoned, lapped, and polished. Engagement is now neutral until it bumps the disconnector/interrupter, and then goes slightly positive. I can now pull the slack out of the trigger, release it, and the trigger will properly reset.

    Next week I may play around with it some more. I should be able to reduce the second stage pull length a bit without having any disconnector timing issues.

    Holescreek, if you have any pictures of the modifications I would love to see them. I was looking at adding set screws for take up and over travel. I was thinking about the function of the CETME trigger group for a while today (it was a slow day at work). The slightly negative to neutral sear to hammer engagement doesn't seem like it's as big of a deal as it is with some other trigger groups. The spring pressure from the disconnector against the hammer should keep a neutral engagement safe, though I do feel better when things are slightly positive. It would appear that I should be able to treat this trigger group similar to a M1 Garand or M14 clone as far as adjusting engagement and timing. Before getting too froggy I will need to take a closer look at the disconnector though.

    If I botch this one up I will probably send a new pack off to Williams. It seems Bill's work is either very good, or very bad, and I am capably of very bad all on my own. Just ask my wife

  2. #42
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    I received my NOS H&K firing pin and spring from RTG. Wow, that is a much more substantial firing pin spring. I replaced those 2 bits, replaced the brake with one that I can mount my suppressor to, checked everything with an alignment rod, and went out back to test things out.

    It is currently 1 outside, so there wasn't a lot of testing being done. With my caldwell brass catcher mounted I chambered and ejected 2 rounds letting the bolt go home. I found no marks on the primers from the firing pin. Then I fired a round and ejected the next. The chambered round had a tiny mark from the firing pin, but it was smaller than the mark my AR10 leaves. I did that a couple more times to confirm, finished off the mag, and ran back to the house because it is too damn cold outside.

    So no more slam fires, and it runs just fine with the can on it. I'm calling it a win.

  3. #43
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    Good to hear. Pics with the can on it?
    14EH AIT Instructor-PATRIOT Fire Control Enhanced Operator/Maintainer

  4. #44
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    Ask and you shall receive

    Here it is with my ratchet doughnut. The rear of my ca is cut with scallops, and I drilled a shaft collar and put a detent in it to keep my can from backing off. I made a few of these from steel and aluminum and they work really well. The can only seems to back off of my .308 and 5.56 rifles though.





    and inside the titanium can is 2 stainless and 5 titanium baffles that look like this.

  5. #45
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    Nice! Thanks.
    14EH AIT Instructor-PATRIOT Fire Control Enhanced Operator/Maintainer

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottz63 View Post
    Nice! Thanks.
    Hopefully Diversified Machine will have their YHM thread adapter in stock again, and then I can have my current adapter (and probably the end cap) upgraded by my SOT. Then I can get rid of my doughnut.

  7. #47
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    I copied the adapter from my Surge so I could use it on all my rifles. Then when I made my form 1 can I made the rear cap to fit so everything is interchangeable.

  8. #48
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    I'm a sucker for a good deal, but in the past that has burnt me... as in this rifle purchase. Even still, last week I ordered a Cabala's branded 1-6x scope and Herters mount. I was unaware that the Cabala's scope actually comes with a mount, though it is a tiny bit lower than the Herters and may have interfered with the rear sight. Right now the scope just barely clears the rear sight. The 1-6x is only $199, and they also have a 1-4x for around $150. As I am posting this it occurs to me that I didn't take a pic of the rifle with the new glass.

    I mounted and leveled everything on my days off, but the weather was crap so I didn't get a chance to sight it in. The glass is surprisingly clear, though with the magnification turned up to 6x I needed to be directly behind the glass (I think I need to move the glass forward a bit). With the scope set to 1x I could use it with both eyes open. It illuminates in red or green, and at full brightness it didn't wash out even in a sunny and snowy backyard.

    So today I got home and still had some daylight. With temps in the 40's and no wind I toss the can on the rifle and ran out back. I started at 25 yards, then moved to 50, and finally to 100.
    - The first round at 25 is in the upper right, and after a quick adjustment the next 2 were in the same hole centered and 2" low. The rounds are marked with 1 back dash each.
    - At 50 yards the rounds are an 1" or so high marked with 2 dashes.
    - At 100 I fired 5 rounds to confirm. There is one "flyer" if you want to call it that, it is marked with a square. That was my 3rd round, and I am blaming on the crappy trigger. Even after smoothing the trigger, the 2nd stage is heavy and a little gritty still and the trigger broke in the middle of a breath. The other 4 rounds are in red circles. Even with the the flyer the group comes in just under 2". With a better trigger (next upgrade), higher magnification (not really needed, but doesn't hurt), and my heart rate not through the roof from running around trying to sight this in before I ran out of day light, I think the rifle could do better. I was a little surprised to be honest. With the irons I didn't shoot very well (odd, because I shoot irons all the time), and interwebz reports showed "respected" Youtubers shooting groups 2-3x the size I managed.



    This was shot with my .308 pet load, Nato brass with 42.5gr of H4895 under a 155HPBT. This was the most accurate load for a Nato Garand built with an Italian kit from Sarco. I should have never sold that rifle. As it turns out, this load seems to work well in every .308/Nato chambered rifle I have ever run it though.

    On a side note, I will need a cheek riser. Chin weld is no good. Add bad cheek weld to the increased felt recoil of the added suppressor and you get a nasty cheek slap. I have been looking for something not so ugly, but all I am finding is that black plastic cheek riser. Has anyone found someone making a leather cheek riser, or even something out of wood?

    Cliff notes:
    Cabala's branded 1-6x scope for $199 comes with a mount, and doesn't suck.
    This rifle can shoot.

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