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Thread: Mini 22lr CETME? Yep, it's happening.

  1. #1
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    Mini 22lr CETME? Yep, it's happening.

    This may not be where this belongs, but I thought it would be most appreciated in this section.

    So a few years back I bought a GSG-522 Lightweight. It was inexpensive, and super mall-ninja cool like an MP5. Yeah, that got old after the 1st range trip and it has sat in the racks ever since. I had tried to sell it, but the interwebz is full of flakes. Then I ordered a Century C308 (not the best decision I have ever made), but that did land me here with you fine fellows.

    When I received the C308 I was instantly turned off by the plastic furniture, so I ordered an accessory kit with wood and a bunch of mags from Century. The wood wasn't in the condition I wanted, and I ordered a different set on ebay. This got me thinking "What can I do with this extra stock set"? I did some searching and found some people had fit wood to their GSG rifles. Most had shortened the hand guard, but I guy had fit it as full length.

    With a silly idea in my head and some beer I made my way out to the shop. Here is what I came up with.



    The rear metal on the hand guard was trimmed to fit flush with the receiver, and locks in around the 2 squared off protrusions on either side of it. The front holes were drilled out to use either the GSG mounting screws or a HK pin. The wood and metal required more material removal than I had expected, but in the end there was enough meat there for me to make it work.

    With some aluminum bar stock I made an extension for the gas tube mount. It is 1-5" section and 2-2.5" sections riveted together. This got the length of my cocking tube correct to mount the hand guard, but the front sight wasn't as ridged as I wanted. To fix lateral movement in the front sight I drilled and tapped it for a set screw. A little blue lock-tite and BAM it's rock solid.

    From there I moved on to the butt stock mounting. A little time with the dremel and some files...


    It required a little tweaking to open it up so it would fit. With a little work it is nice and snug. I will still need to drill out the rear hole in the trigger housing to fit standard pins.

    The stock is a very tight fit in the metal so I won't mount it until the metal and plastics are refinished. This is how it sits currently.


    Once I fit the cocking tube extension I will refinish the entire rifle with battle field wear/pickup look. I looked in to trying to fit a metal trigger housing, but the holes don't line up and would be more trouble than it's worth.

    The final touch will be the muzzle end. I have seen a part that threads in to the front sight assembly like the fake can and has 1/2x28 thread on it. I need to find a shop to make me one that will extend to the end of my muzzle to complete the look.

    I will post updates as I go, but shop time is limited to my days off when the wife is at work.

  2. #2
    Senior Veteran sdk1968's Avatar
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    its got some great looking potential!

    glad to see you chose to make something out of it vs just letting it sit & do nothing. look forward to seeing your progress!
    say what you mean & mean what you say!
    TEC Tactical=SOT/07 i work there.

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    My aluminum and steel pipe came in yesterday. Last night I went out to the shop to make chips. When I went to fire up the heater I found my propane take was empty... I was in for a long cold ride.

    Here is what I ended up with.



    I turned down 1 end of the aluminum pipe and fit the other end to the receiver. The steel pipe needed about .01 removed from the OD. This was done with a file and a drill press... I really need to get a lathe. In my parts bins I found a pin that was the exact length as the OD of the steel pin. WINNING. I drilled the pipe and pressed the pin in place so the spring for the charging handle had a place to rest. You can sort of see the pin head in that pic.

    Assembled for function testing


    The charging handle operates as it should, but I did trim the cocking tube extension just a hair short. Once it's all painted I don't think it will be noticeable.

    Base silver sprayed and hanging to dry


    Black will go on next, and then I will give it a few days to cure before antiquing it and then shooting it with clear.

  4. #4
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    I like it and I get a kick out of the story behind it. It just proves, great things have come from BEER!
    For those who fought for it, freedom holds a flavor the protected will never know. Those who hammer their guns into plows-will plow for those who do not. Thomas Jefferson

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    Ok, so after letting the silver setup for an hour I shot everything down with 2 light coats of the satin black, and then hung them in the basement to cure.
    After a few hours I got a little antsy, and instead of emptying beer and scotch bottles I decided to be productive. Again I made my way out into the harsh weather and walked the 15 steps out to the shop. Once in the shop I proceeded to link 4 letter words together in new and interesting ways to describe the weather. Oh, and I turned on the easy bake over, that’s what I call my powder coating oven.
    After 1 hour at 200 degrees my parts went from fingernail soft to morning wood hard. Perfect.
    Sorry about the flash, but without it the pics are even worse, as seen in the second pic.


    The satin Krylon Dual is a really nice paint. While I am sure it is not nearly as tough, it has the same look as the black powder coat I get from Harbor Freight. The HF powder may not be the best, but for the price it can’t be beat.
    So since shiny isn’t the finish I want I got after it with a 3M green scrubby. This did a great job of knocking down the shine and bringing the silver up on the high spots and edges. This got me close to the 60-70% finish look that I wanted to match my wood.



    From there I grabbed a brass cleaning brush. The little end got into those tight spots that still had some shine, and going over the rest of the parts with the big end gave me random scratches and imperfections to make it look not so “homemade”.


    Subtle, but it makes a difference.

    Now I need to decide if I am going to hit everything with matte clear or leave it as is. The matte clear will help preserve the current finish, but not clearing it leaves it open to new character.
    For now it will hang for the night to cure, and in the morning I will decide. While I typed that I thought maybe I could do both… I could use it and beat it up a bit to give it a more “natural” wear and then clear it. I think I like that idea.

    I am really happy with the way it has turned out. I was worried about it looking like crap, but it is turning out as I had pictured in my head.

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    Got up this morning, let the dog out, made coffee, and went back downstairs to the gun room. The front end went together without any issues. I made sure the sights and cocking tube were trued up, and locked down the set screw I installed at the bottom of the triple frame.

    When I went to install the stock I ran into an issue. For some reason it wouldn’t slip all the on any more. After consuming more coffee, I realized I had never fit the stock assembly with the buffer body installed. With that part removed the stock assembly slide into place. That isn’t so bad since I only have the buffer body, and I can’t bolt the stock down with just that. Since the stock is a very tight fit to the backplate, I decided to use a wood screw in the bottom hole to hold the stock in place. It seems rock solid, but time will tell if I need to move to Plan “B”.

    I still don’t have a pin to secure the backplate, but here are pics of it mostly assembled. The scope is a cheapo Chinese 1.5-6x with fiber optic illumination. There needs to be more distressing to the optic for it to match the rest of the rifle. I am surprised how tough the finish is on this piece.
    A pic of it assembled, and a couple of close ups of the distressed finish.





    You can see I didn't refinish the metal on the hand guard, but it seems to match well enough even if the parkerizing is a little lighter in color.

    If I had to do it again I think I would try to add imperfections in the silver layer before adding the black. Maybe blotting it with a sponge or something. That would leave little spots like the one on the cocking tube extension that look like small dents and dings.

    Now I need to deal with the muzzle end of the barrel. I had an idea while drinking coffee this morning. I want to open up the fake suppressor that came with the rifle. I am hoping that it is a tube inside a tube. If that is the case, and the inner tube has an OD more like the real rifle, I will trim that to length and refinish it to match the rest of the rifle.

  7. #7
    Planning's Avatar
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    This is looking great. I enjoy following build people are doing..

    Thanks very much.

    Ron
    31B

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Planning View Post
    This is looking great. I enjoy following build people are doing..

    Thanks very much.

    Ron
    Thanks. I just went out to the shop to cut up the fake can. I is tube in tube, and will work like I thought, but doesn't look right. The end that threads into the triple frame is about an inch long and has the full OD of the can. I would need to have the OD turned down to make it look right. I need to make nice with someone that has a lathe.

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    Quote Originally Posted by zer0daze View Post
    Thanks. I just went out to the shop to cut up the fake can. I is tube in tube, and will work like I thought, but doesn't look right. The end that threads into the triple frame is about an inch long and has the full OD of the can. I would need to have the OD turned down to make it look right. I need to make nice with someone that has a lathe.
    Nice build, I've been following along with your progress. There's a vid on youtube that shows this process and it helped out when I lengthened mine to accept the wood G3 hand guard.
    Not being a fan of the Navy style plastic lower I modded a steel lower with a modded G3 trigger group to work.

    If your faux suppressor is a tube in a tube design the wall thickness of the outer tube can't be that thick. How much do you think you can take off the OD without cutting through and will it really make a noticeable difference? Post a pic of what you have if you don't mind.

    Thanks!

  10. #10
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    Ok, so I cut into the faux suppressor. It is a tube in tube with 2 very think end pieces. The center tube is just a friction fit in a recess in both end pieces. Here is the end piece with the outer tube trimmed to the end piece and the inner tube trimmed to fit the barrel length. In the pic you can see the thickness of the outside tube.





    The large end piece looks silly, and the inner tube has an ID lager than I had expected. I don't like it.

    I did receive the take down pins from Keep Shooting. Three of the pins I received looked like new, and one of them was well worn. The well worn pin was a nice match to my beat up finish. The rifle was test fired with a few different brands of ammo from subsonic to high velocity, and all cycled just fine.
    Last edited by zer0daze; 11-14-2017 at 04:38 PM.

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