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Thread: Mini 22lr CETME? Yep, it's happening.

  1. #11
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    Do you still have the front half of the outer tube that you cut off?
    I did a photoshop of what I thought you might doing. It probably still can be done providing you have the front end. A step, the thickness of the outer tube, would need to be cut into the beefy part at the rear. Once the front end was cut to length the two parts could be permanently affixed....just a thought.
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  2. #12
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    I do, but it is in 2 pieces. I thought the end cap would end end a little before it did. So I am not sure if it would really be salvageable. I would really like a way to mount one of my cans on in, but I have thought about filing another form 1 and making a reflex can to mount at the triple frame.

    Edit:
    I found this video this morning.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzEYBinbCSw

    I may have to grab another trigger housing to play around with since it seems an original CETME housing should fit with less work than I expected. I could even add an original trigger group. That would finish the look with an original style selector lever.

    Edit 2:
    A quick disassembly of the GSG lower shows that the CETME housing will fit the gun with very little work, but the GSG trigger group will not work. The selector lever holes are in very different places. I will have to look into modifying a CETME trigger pack like the modified HK pack in the video I found.
    Last edited by zer0daze; 11-15-2017 at 09:00 AM.

  3. #13
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    I had to look up what a reflex suppressor was, I've seen that style can but never knew that it had a specific name. Thinking out loud, I made a sleeve from a G3 barrel cut off that slips over the end of the pencil barrel and threads into the triple frame purely for cosmetics. The same principle could be applied that was threaded on the end for a conventional suppressor but I like the idea of the reflex. It would bring the can back to the front sight and keep the overall length to a minimum.

    Here's some pics of the lower you asked about.
    The housing was pretty straight forward. I cut the front end out of it with no room to spare, it just fits the width of the receiver. I tacked two washers on the back for the push pins that hold the stock on. The FCG was another story, I wasn't sure if it would work or not but had to try. I had to cut the front end of that off as well for it to clear the receiver. I tacked a small rod in the front to tie it back together and also to act as a hammer stop.

    The hammer was a bit of a challenge. It had to clear the bottom rear of the bolt and also be able to strike the firing pin. I cut and welded a wedge shaped piece to the face of the hammer so it would contact the firing pin and ground a notch below that to clear the bolt. A trigger stop pin was also installed to prevent any "mishaps".
    I sort of remember having to cut a couple coils off the hammer spring to lighten it enough for the .22 recoil.

    I'd assume that the same principle could be applied to a CETME lower.
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  4. #14
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    ^
    That looks outstanding!

    What finish did you use on the barrel sleeve?

    I was looking at picking up a steel lower, but I am having a tough time justifying the money for this project. I decided that the money was better spent sending an old RPK barrel stub to Rusty's Services (he the SOT I use for suppressor baffles) to turn down and thread both ends. I have to decide if I am going to paint, rust blue, or parkerize the sleeve. I am leaning towards parkerizing, but it could be painted to match the rest of the finish instead.

    In the mean time I decided to grab the original plastic lower and work with that. The original lower had a silly sling loop on the trigger guard I had to remove, but it has ridges and features that match those on the upper receiver section. So I shot the lower with silver, then black, baked, and got after it with the green and grey scrubbing pads. I taped off the grip so it sort of looks like a separate grip, but it still doesn't look as nice as the CETME or G3 grip on a steel lower. I am wondering if maybe there is Hogue slip on grip that would fit and give it a better look. I have even thought about wrapping it with hockey tape, but I don't know if I really like that idea.

    Well, here it is.

    Last edited by zer0daze; 11-18-2017 at 01:22 PM.

  5. #15
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    I really like the way your finish is looking. It's subtle but enough that it looks good.
    The barrel sleeve I made was media blasted then dipped in Pro Gun Blue (cold black)...my poor mans parkerize.

    One thought about the grip, if it were mine, I'd get rid of the pebble textured nubs. Sand it smooth and depending on what type of plastic/polymer it is there's a chance just the grip area could be buffed to a slight sheen but not to shiny. It could always be hit with some scotchbrite if needed. A different texture, in this case smooth, would make the grip area appear to be a separate piece.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by 21HK View Post
    One thought about the grip, if it were mine, I'd get rid of the pebble textured nubs. Sand it smooth and depending on what type of plastic/polymer it is there's a chance just the grip area could be buffed to a slight sheen but not to shiny. It could always be hit with some scotchbrite if needed. A different texture, in this case smooth, would make the grip area appear to be a separate piece.
    That's a good idea. I was contemplating cutting up the other lower I had to see if I could remove the grip and use the trigger group retaining bolt to mount a grip extension (similar to a steel lower). Then maybe I could mount an original style grip.

  7. #17
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    Well, I screwed up, and I am pretty upset with myself. I measured a bunch of times, and my measurements were dead on, but I in my haste I wasn't looking past the tip of my nose. So I sent off a barrel stub to be turned down and threaded on both ends. The part came back this week, and all I had to do was drill out the ID. The machining cost was more than I would have liked, but the cost of the time it took was fair. Looking at the part, it was exactly what I asked for. The piece was 3.1" long, had a .75" OD, threaded 1/2x28 at the muzzle, and threaded for the triple frame on the other.

    The issue? The overall length. The length I specified put the muzzle end just a little past the crown, and I didn't think about the barrel's OD. The barrel is .47". By boring the ID I was going to remove 1/2" of the overall length. I should have had it made 1/2" longer and then counter bored the sleeve to just before the threaded end. I'm a dummy, and now I have 1/2" of the original barrel sticking out of the end. The barrel is 16.3", and had it been a little longer I could have maybe cut is down to 16"




    Now I have a couple of options.
    Keep what I have, thread the end of the barrel with the 9x.75, and use the GSG 9x.75 to 1/2x28 adapter.
    I could use an adapter like this
    https://www.tacticool22.com/product/...-thread-black/
    Or I could order more steel tubing like I used to extend the cocking rod (or whatever it's called). That was the correct OD, and is softer than the CHF barrel stub I used. That could be sent out and the piece could be remade.

    The sleeve looks really good, and had I not screwed up it would have been the perfect way to finish off this project.

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