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Thread: Cetme L build planning

  1. #121
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    In the Cetme-C, the cocking tube rotates a bit and the cocking handle pin comes out a hole to the side of the barrel. This lets you cut a groove in the extension that would let the cocking handle pin come through, but in the Cetme-L, the pin drops in and and out the top. This would make it seem to be a simple job, removing the pin through the top hole...but it isn't. Extending the trunnion will close access to the bottom side of the cocking tube so I am not sure how that will affect how I install and remove the cocking handle pin yet.

    On the rail stiffener T-plates, do they have a radius inside the plate that matches the reciever, or are they square cut? Where the T-profile is, I mean-I expect there to be a radius at the front where the trunnion sits.

  2. #122
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    My T rails look like this:

    Rails031211001.jpg

  3. #123
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    Those look easy enough to replicate. I was looking at turning them from round stock, boring the length, then counterboring the front to fit the trunnion, then splitting them out and milling the rails in the mill.

    I *could* do it all in the lathe at home, but it's no big deal to use one of the unloved bridgeports at work.

  4. #124
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    I wasn't too keen on the cocking handle pin in the L when I first saw it. With the barrel in place it was a pain to remove. Once I got everything apart though it kind of grew on me. The biggest problem is the ball detent in the top of the pusher. If the grease gets old and stiff it makes life tough. Once cleaned up and oiled its easy to use.

    If you're going to make all the new trunnion parts, extensions and so on you might as well make up a new cocking tube as well. Make it so the front end is removable and then you won't need the pin removed at any particular place. Pull the plug out the front and push the assembled handle out. No need for a front sight base, put a rail on the receiver. The iron sights suck really bad. We put a rail on a test rifle and it is so much better I'm shocked. It actually co-witnesses the irons when you use a military aimpoint too so no need for high cheekrests or anything.

    I like the idea of the reinforcing rails too. After looking at a bunch of roller lockers that had a lot of rounds downrange I noticed the rails get a bit lumpy where the rollers bounce outward. One spot where the bolt hits the round in the mag, another just behind the trunnion where the rollers try to pop out on recoil, another at the rear where the bolt carrier hits the buffer and bounces the rollers out....I don't think it hurts anything but I like those nice solid looking rails.

    Don't plan on using the rollers to adjust bolt gap. The size range is really small and small to large typically gains or loses 1-2 thousandths in gap max.


    Frank

  5. #125
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    After looking at a bunch of roller lockers that had a lot of rounds downrange I noticed the rails get a bit lumpy where the rollers bounce outward. One spot where the bolt hits the round in the mag, another just behind the trunnion where the rollers try to pop out on recoil, another at the rear where the bolt carrier hits the buffer and bounces the rollers out....I don't think it hurts anything but I like those nice solid looking rails.
    I've only dealt with Cetme C's and have never heard of the rollers denting the rails where the bolt contacts the rear of the cartridge to strip it out of the mag. The dents behind the trunnion is always from the bolt head hitting the rear edge of the trunnion as it enters, because the rails aren't pushed in far enough when the trunnion was welded into the receiver. The dents back at the buffer indicate that either the recoil spring is too worn or that the wrong locking piece is in place.

  6. #126
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    Mike I've seen the roller dents caused by of all things the buffers that sit inside the receiver, you know which ones I mean.

  7. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by rebel49 View Post
    Mike I've seen the roller dents caused by of all things the buffers that sit inside the receiver, you know which ones I mean.
    Yeah, if the carrier is traveling too fast anything that gets in the way will deploy the rollers with the sudden stop. I've got a couple nice rail dents in the bullpup already. One set from trying the suppressor with the 60 degree locking piece, and a second set from trying out a new idea of replacing the original rubber buffer material with a very thick die spring. My test Cetme also has some nice dents from the suppressor trials.

  8. #128
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    If you're going to make all the new trunnion parts, extensions and so on you might as well make up a new cocking tube as well. Make it so the front end is removable and then you won't need the pin removed at any particular place. Pull the plug out the front and push the assembled handle out. No need for a front sight base, put a rail on the receiver. The iron sights suck really bad. We put a rail on a test rifle and it is so much better I'm shocked. It actually co-witnesses the irons when you use a military aimpoint too so no need for high cheekrests or anything.
    Splitting the front of the cocking tube leaves no place to hang the handguard. Unless it's split back where the front edge of the slot is, it wouldn't help anyway, can't take the cocking handle assembly out through the front due to the way the thing is shaped.

    I'm thinking just remove the pin and replace it with a shouldered screw, and lock it down with a punchmark.

  9. #129
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    Blackjack buffers has an excellent replacement buffer for the buffer assembly.

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