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Thread: Cetme L build planning

  1. #141
    holescreek's Avatar
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    I've been eyeballing a Creality CR10S just for the build volume. The thing that's been driving me away is all the print failures that I read about and hear about from a friend with 3 different printers (none of which are CR10s). I'd be pissed if I'd been running parts for 10 hours and the machine malfunctioned.

  2. #142
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    It does happen. Best thing to do is get one that is enclosed, or build an enclosure for it. Keep in mind it's a CNC machine-the more rigid and heavier built it is, (what 3D print guys call "overbuilt") the better it will be at not screwing up halfway through.

    The main reason to building one vs buying a bigger one here is the "overbuilt" being "properly built" thoughts here. 1/2" thick aluminum table with heater, on 15mm profile rails instead of round unsupported rods or v-wheels running in aluminum T-slot extrusion. A gantry with some rigidity to it instead of relying on being able to adjust out any taper or angle.

    The Creality Ender 3 that I've got here is nice, and does good prints-but after three months the 3d-printed V-wheels running on the aluminum extrusion are starting to fuzz up, and the table does have to be leveled before starting a print if it's been jarred or bumped at all.

    In this case the forearm will look nice, but I'll have to adjust a few dimensions to make it fit the steel handguard liner, I already know that-but I don't want to wait on another 49 hour print just to go back and fix the drawing for a part that can't actually be used on a rifle anyway. The PLA plastic will melt after the first five shots, but it's very rigid and can be polished up like glass, which is what I need to pour a silicone mold of it and cast one in a better suited material.
    Last edited by Xnke; 12-03-2018 at 05:57 PM.

  3. #143
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    This is a draft quality print-but it's finished. Only took 13 hours, and it's nowhere near ready for molding. The 50 hour high-quality print will still need significant time sanding and polishing before doing the molds, but this gives an idea of what it'll look like.


  4. #144
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    That's pretty neat! What material are you going to use for the final product?
    14EH AIT Instructor-PATRIOT Fire Control Enhanced Operator/Maintainer

  5. #145
    holescreek's Avatar
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    Is there any room in the 3d print to install a heat shield?

  6. #146
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    Final product will be a cast resin, probably a polyurethane or similar.

    The print and final product will use the original steel handguard liner, or a rolled steel replacement.

  7. #147
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    I am giving serious though to a full tilt left handed conversion, but given the price of another receiver flat, I am thinking it will be better to do that with one of my Cetme C kits first. I am already gonna have to rework the cocking tube on both of those kits.

    On the L kit I can weld up the holes in the cocking tube, file it back down and roll the tube, chopping an ejection port in the wrong side isn't a big deal, but filling the port in in the right side is going to be a lot of risk of shrinkage and warping.

    After that welding up the bottom of the bolt head and recutting the ejector slot is easy.

  8. #148
    holescreek's Avatar
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    Don't forget having to move the extractor cut in the bolt head too, probably easier to make a new bolt head. You'd also have to make a modification to the ejector itself to shift it to the other side. The Cetme C cocking tube is much simpler, just roll it to the right side and it will lock downward. You just have to fix the holes for the cocking handle pin.

  9. #149
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    You're right-wouldn't do a bit of good to move the ejector and leave that extractor where it is.

    All considered, the biggest question is do I want to pull a Holescreek special and go gas-operated, or just go the hard road and get this chamber fluting working properly. First ECM full chamber did not go well tonight. I used an unfired case, and carefully soldered along the length of the case. Polished up and had a go with it.

    Had issues mainly with the wires burning off the outside of the case. If the coolant flow sputtered, or the leadscrew had a bit much lash in it, or something else happened, it'd just burn the wires off the case, and when I got to the shoulder it burned a hole clean through the case.

  10. #150
    holescreek's Avatar
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    Do you have the 6.8 SPC reamer? If so, make a short section of chamber (with the correct OD) and a simulated bore about 3" long and I'll see what modification to my setup would be needed to flute it.
    Last edited by holescreek; 12-06-2018 at 03:13 PM.

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