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Thread: C308 Chevron Muzzle Brake

  1. #1
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    C308 Chevron Muzzle Brake (photos added)

    Hello,
    I picked up the C308 yesterday and since we made the transaction at the club, I brought some surplus ammo I have (Malaysian, Austrian, South African, Portuguese) and installed an Aimpoint PRO on it. I'll have pics later to post. All of it ran through the rifle without a hitch, and accuracy was better than expected. All shots were at 100yds off a rest on a bench. 5 shot groups were between 1 1/2" - 2".....POI didn't vary much. Some reloads I used in my AR-10 (LC brass, 41.0 gr of Varget, Sierra 165gr SBT) were the lest accurate telling me 150gr bullets are probably the way to go with this rifle. The muzzle brake; with its unusual look/ design, actually worked very well mitigating recoil and muzzle lift. I am curious to how it was installed/ timed without flats on it to turn it into place. Has anyone ever attempted to remove it? If so, what tool / method is best to use? I have other brakes and I wanted to do a comparison.....But then again, if it aint broke....Thanks















    Last edited by concretus; 04-28-2018 at 05:59 PM.
    " If Clemenza can figure out a way to plant that gun, then I'll kill them both. It's nothing personal Sonny. It's strictly business".... Michael Corleone

    "Stick to your gun if you believe in something
    no matter what;
    cause it's better to be hated for who you are
    Than loved for someone you're not. Oh, and try to help someone out." Van Zant

  2. #2
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    To me the C308 brake is the most impressive part of the rifle, and I've made and tested dozens of brakes. Watching the end of the barrel in slow motion, the muzzle actually dips down rather than lift. A teensy bit of tuning and it would be perfect.


  3. #3
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    The brake on mine was awful - POI must have been about a foot or two to the right at 100 yards. Switched to a US flashider I got from Sswee years ago and now the POI just a few inches off, though with my groups you might not notice

    I removed the CAI brake by the score and break method - sliced most of the way through two sides with a dremel wheel and then whacked with a cold chisel (being careful not to ding the barrel of course). Mine was pinned but not soldered - some are soldered as I recall.

    I think Sswee was making CAI brake copies too - if anyone has his info (I used to, but that was many unbacked up computers ago) it might be worth trying to track him down. My only complaint with the CAI brake was lousy QC, and I bet his didn't have that problem. Of course I don't remember what the thread was - might not do you any good anyway.

    EDIT:

    Wait a sec - you're not talking about the old 12 hole loudener, are you? Got a close up?

  4. #4
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    The one I’m asking about is shown the the video Holescrek posted. It’s supposed to be threaded on; 5/8”-24... It does work. But I have a Surefire ProComp I just wanted to try. As the video shows it works well... but I was just curious...
    " If Clemenza can figure out a way to plant that gun, then I'll kill them both. It's nothing personal Sonny. It's strictly business".... Michael Corleone

    "Stick to your gun if you believe in something
    no matter what;
    cause it's better to be hated for who you are
    Than loved for someone you're not. Oh, and try to help someone out." Van Zant

  5. #5
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    C308 brake

    Quote Originally Posted by concretus View Post
    The one Iím asking about is shown the the video Holescrek posted. Itís supposed to be threaded on; 5/8Ē-24... It does work. But I have a Surefire ProComp I just wanted to try. As the video shows it works well... but I was just curious...
    I held my barrel on my 2015 manufactured rifle while a buddy used a pair of vice grips. Mine came right off.

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