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Thread: Carrier not stripping round from mag

  1. #11
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    Update-

    I used some tape to make a straight line at the bottom of the magwell, and used a file to take probably less than 1/8” of material off. It cleaned it up nicely and the mag I ordered from RTG locked in nicely.
    I took it to a friends, and with safety glasses, a full protective face mask, heavy-duty gloves, and standing behind an old cars door, I fired a shot. It shot great! I then ran two more through it and they stripped and fired fine. I then loaded the mag with 5 rounds, and after every shot the BCG was getting stuck at the back of the receiver. I had to give it a couple hard hits for the BCG to release and go into battery. I’m going to strip it down and make sure the BCG is still sliding through the receiver freely or if it’s binding up. So if it’s moving smoothly, could the fact that the bolt gap is so wide cause this issue?

    I’ll work on that now, and hopefully have the rear sight welded on this week so it’ll all be ready for paint. I ordered a different sight, and the base has two threaded holes, but I didn’t get screws with the set. I can tell the top screw would hold the sight to the base, but what’s the side hole for? Because of the shape of the hole around that threaded hole, a regular screw doesn’t appear like it’ll fit.
    The other item I didn’t install was the piece for the rear grip that goes in the receiver for support. Is that really necessary?

    Here’s the sight-
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by Dborns; 10-08-2018 at 03:29 PM.

  2. #12
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    Looking closer at the rear sight, it looks like the holes are for elevation/ windage adjustment. I just need something to hold the sight in place, so thatíll be fun to find....

    I stripped the receiver and did find the BCG was not sliding in or out of the receiver without binding. If I had the muzzle up, and tapped the back of the receiver, the BCG fell but stopped to the point where it was close to 2Ē from coming out the back of the receiver. I used the BCG to try to enlarge the receiver, but it still wonít slide all the way without a tap. I lubed it good and maybe more rounds through it will loosen things up.

    Iíll get the sight base welded on and also try to find out the thread pitch of those holes so I can look for some small bolts thatíll hold it in place.

  3. #13
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    The bolt needs to be able to slide freely through the receiver. If it does and the bolt still gets stuck at the rear the issue is more than likely the ejector jumping out of its slot under the bolt head.

    Next time it jams backwards remove the magazine and look at the ejector lever through the ejection port and see if it's holding onto the bolt head (it should be in the slot). If it is, it's an easy fix to pinch the shelf in the FCG box closed a little to snug it up so the ejector can't wobble side to side. You can even check it now and make sure that isn't the problem.

    On your rear sight, you need the screw, a retaining washer, and an oval slotted spacer for the windage retainer. You can buy those individually or as a set on the Robert RTG site. I think an entire used rear sight assembly is only about $12. I'd post a link but I can't access the site from this computer.

  4. #14
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    I pulled the rifle out to take a look at your suggestion. The ejector is sitting equal on both sides of the bolt while it’s locked open. I lubed it up and cocked it hard a couple dozen times. It sounds gritty, so I’ll clean it again before shooting it again.

    Thanks for the info on the rear site; I’ve got those + rollers to return, so I’ll look into the missing parts and another couple mags.

  5. #15
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    Make sure that when you install the small screw in the right hand side that is for moving the sight left/right, you don't make the dumb @ss mistake I did!! The shoulder on the screw head goes IN the machined slot on the side of the sight body. When I assembled mine, I didn't notice the slot, and couldn't figure out why the screw was too short to engage the threads!! And the screw is a metric 4.5 x 75 pitch (or T.P.I.)

  6. #16
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    14EH AIT Instructor-PATRIOT Fire Control Enhanced Operator/Maintainer

  7. #17
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    BTW...the size/pitch numbers I gave ya are for the smaller screw with the shoulder. I don't know what the vertical screw that attaches the sight body to the base is, size wise.

  8. #18
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    Guys, thanks for the suggestions on the BCG issue, and the links for the rear sight. I was reading up on the rollers again last night as far as under/ oversized, and what each corrects. Prior to firing, I was at .020-.022 bolt gap, and Holescreek suggestion to fire it to see if it changed was on spot. It’s at .018 after only a few rounds. So after looking at what that much of a bolt gap due to the rollers could cause, from what I understand, it could cause excessive recoil. Again, first cetme build so excuse the ignorance, but could excessive recoil cause the BCG too far back into the receiver that it binds up like I had? I’m just trying to decide if I should exchange the +4 rollers from RTG with -4 rollers, or use the money towards something else? (I have not changed the rollers out to the new +4 rollers after being advised I ordered the wrong size).

    Off topic of this build, but after getting this rifle close to being done, I’d love to do a second. The problem I had with this build was a Cetme barrel. It was backordered for 6 months, and I was basically told I wasn’t guaranteed to even get one. I see G3 barrels for sale online, so if I get a Cetme parts kit, and a Cetme flat, will a G3 barrel work?
    Last edited by Dborns; 10-10-2018 at 05:17 PM.

  9. #19
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    I believe, in my limited knowledge, that per the compatibility chart from RTG, the G3 barrel is GTG with the CETME parts kit. The pros here will know for sure. For my build, I used a PTR 18" "GI" barrel from EveryGunPart.com.

  10. #20
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    Don't mess with the rollers, the rifle is fine. Yes, a G3 barrel works great.

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