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Thread: Cetme C 308 build question

  1. #1
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    Cetme C 308 build question

    good evening folks . been a member for some time but this is my first post .
    so here is what I have . its a older century Cetme C . a little story behind it .
    back in the winter 1995 my uncle rolled his Bronco down into a canyon . . the Cetme was lost despite several attempts at fining it .
    in the summer of 2015 there was a large fire back in the area and after some looking with a metal detector we found it some 20 yards farther down the canyon .
    as would be expected the stock was burnt off , springs had went soft and barrel just in front of the triple had a slight bend in it. but beings it was kinda a family deal and my uncle had since passed I decided I would rebuild it. so I broke it all down cleaned the parts oiled them up . I ordered a lower ,FP spring ……. stock and a Green Mountain barrel from APEX . set it aside and never got back to it .
    this morning I decided I was going get her back shooting and am just about there .
    here is my question .
    went I pulled the barrel I was able to drive it out with a block of wood and a hammer . thought nothing of it . today when I went to put the new GM barrel in I coated the barrel and the inside of the trunnion with auto antisieze I dropped the barrel in and figure I would tap it with a wood block then take it to the press . but I was able to seat it all the way with the block and a small hammer . in fact I can grab the muzzle and with alittle effort pull it out . there doesn't seem to be any wobble . the barrel doesn't have any scratch's and the in trunnion is nice and smooth ?????
    I don't think the fire got so hot it would have done something to the trunnion as the upper wasn't warped at all .
    once I drill and pin the barrel I cant see how it would come out ?
    I would appreciate some thoughts on this . im more then a little concerned as a read the info about how hard they can be to press in .

    thank you .
    Last edited by Captchee; 08-09-2019 at 07:54 PM.

  2. #2
    holescreek's Avatar
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    Can you measure the diameter of the barrel where it fits into the trunnion? Maybe you just got an undersized one. Off the top of my head, I think the trunnion ID should be .865" so your barrel OD should be about .002" larger. Using a barrel that slides as easily as yours will lead to heartache down the road when the cross pin hole wallows out and the barrel shifts forward to zero gap.

  3. #3
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    Thank you for you help its appreciated
    the new GM barrel mics at .866
    the old barrel I took out also mics .866
    the trunnion mics at .856

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    I tried to reset the old barrel without antisieze . cleaned the trunnion place the barrel in . defiantly harder to get to set . but I can still drive it through with a bock of pine and a small hammer but it takes some serious blows to do it . its also tighter at the start but a lot easier about half way in with both barrels . I don't have a gage that I can fit in to measure the receiver side of the trunnion but it sure seems that the front is larger then the bolt side .
    here is what im wondering . could the fire have actually got hot enough to damage the trunnion ? at this point does it mater ,,,NOPE. but if it had I would have thought it would have warped the upper and the cocking tube . yet both seem to be fine and cycled well before I set it aside
    the other thing is I been reading up most of the night and all this morning and yep its an old century arms cetme 308 . so the case could also be that the trunnion wasn't good to begin with and seems to be very likely I guess .
    so that leaves me with replacing the trunnion . so that leads me to the next question . how did they weld the trunnion in . seems to me to be just around the front and at the rail ends at the back . I haven't found anything on the net about that . only the newer builds where the upper is drilled then spot welded . with the way the rest of the welds look I would think if they had welded it that way one could see them .
    thoughts please as I would really like to save at least the upper if I can .

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captchee View Post
    Thank you for you help its appreciated
    the new GM barrel mics at .866
    the old barrel I took out also mics .866
    the trunnion mics at .856

    How can you have a loose barrel with those numbers?

  6. #6
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    I don't know . you tell me , it slides right through with little force
    0810191404_HDR[2858].jpg

    0810191413_HDR[2859].jpg

    0810191406_HDR[2860].jpg

    0810191409_HDR[2861].jpg
    Last edited by Captchee; 08-10-2019 at 04:22 PM.

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    I wouldn't think the antisieze would let it slide through like it does with the little pressure being applied

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    Possible error in measurement

    Quote Originally Posted by Captchee View Post
    Thank you for you help its appreciated
    the new GM barrel mics at .866
    the old barrel I took out also mics .866
    the trunnion mics at .856
    I might be off here, but the way you measured the I.D. of the trunnion may not be good. In this exaggerated trunnion.jpg example, the edges of your micrometer might not be measuring the full diameter of the trunnion giving a false reading. You would need a measuring tool with a very small contact area for best reading.

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    true I didn't think about that . let me check it with just the point edge

  10. #10
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    I still only get a .858,5 reading with the mic pulled out so that only the knife edge is in contact with the ID and taken bot horizontally and vertically
    Last edited by Captchee; 08-10-2019 at 05:08 PM.

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