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Thread: Cetme buffer experiment

  1. #11
    Senior Veteran Has Been's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nevada View Post
    I wonder how many people - like me - have bought the buffer replacement internals to keep the gun running smoothly? LOL!
    I thought the old rubber parts looked so good I've kept them, in oil, in a plastic bag.
    Not a good idea to store rubber parts in oil. The solvents in the oil can, and usually does, cause rapid deterioration.
    Last edited by Has Been; 06-30-2020 at 04:22 AM.

  2. #12
    holescreek's Avatar
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    I ground a new locking piece to 56 degrees today and finally finished my buffer experiments. I have the pistol pretty well dialed in now.

    My new buffer anvil protrudes .600" from the buffer face and compresses .366" before bottoming out.

    Firing unsuppressed with the 56LP the carrier never touches the buffer at all. Firing suppressed with the 56LP the carrier hits the buffer and compresses it .350". The plan is to switch to a 50 degree LP for firing suppressed but at least I know that I am able to shoot it with the 56LP suppressed and benefit from the die spring inside the buffer.

    Photo of a ball of aluminum foil loosely rolled to about 1" jammed between the anvil and the return spring.
    pistol before.jpg

    Photo of the aluminum smashed flat after firing suppressed.
    pistol after.jpg

    Photo of back side of aluminum where it was smashed into the screw head of the buffer.
    foil ball back.jpg

  3. #13
    Senior Veteran nevada's Avatar
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    Has Been, I checked the buffer parts and I was mistaken: no oil. The rubber is either dried or really hard to compress. As I recall they were covered in oil or something when I took them out. I must have dried them off. So, pictures. Top bottom and side. The top and bottom of each is steel and attracts a magnet, as does the thin washer. The washer has some rubber on it also.
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  4. #14
    Senior Veteran nevada's Avatar
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    I couldn't figure out how to add the thickness of the parts to the pics, and the edit was being mean so hence this added post. The dimensions are: .08, .2685, .39, .6105, in inches per my harbor freight electronic caliper.
    Last edited by nevada; 07-01-2020 at 02:28 AM.
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  5. #15
    holescreek's Avatar
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    I bought a couple stacks of those NOS rubber buffer parts long ago when Apex was getting surplus stuff on pallets from CAI. Two of the buffers I disassembled this weekend still looked good for 50 year old rubber parts. I have found some in the past that were hard as rocks.

  6. #16
    Senior Veteran nevada's Avatar
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    I could put these back in to keep the rifle original since the buffer doesn't get used. But I don't feel like doing that so I'll leave the one piece green thing installed.
    A very neat thread, hoelscreek. Learning new info about guns I own is fun. Thanks.
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  7. #17
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    I'm really interested to put some solder on my heavy buffer to see how much it hits. I know it does because it has impact marks on it.
    14EH AIT Instructor-PATRIOT Fire Control Enhanced Operator/Maintainer

  8. #18
    holescreek's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottz63 View Post
    I'm really interested to put some solder on my heavy buffer to see how much it hits. I know it does because it has impact marks on it.
    You might want to consider stepping down 5 degrees on your locking piece then. There's a couple inches of space between the rear of the carrier (when it's locked open) and the buffer. All that wasted motion can be tuned out and the recoil smooths out accordingly. For a visual, remove your lower housing and put the butt stock back on then lock your cocking handle back.

    I've never bothered with buffers before this. The recoil on this pistol forced me to dig into it. I've done all I can till I get it on video to see what I missed.

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