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Thread: Accurizing C308 CETME - Process over time

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by holescreek View Post
    You gotta start somewhere, once you see how it performs you can choose the next move. Unfortunately there are no good choices for better barrels that I'm aware of, at least ones that don't cost less than a whole new rifle.
    Honestly, where I'm at right now in terms of skill level and access to premium ammunition, I don't know that I could really get that much of a difference out of a heavy barrel. I'm more interested in a more informed opinion on whether my accuracy is more likely to improve or decline if I go full free-float, given that we do know it's a lightweight profile.

  2. #32
    holescreek's Avatar
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    I'm not a crack shot by any means. Every time I think I've shot a great group my buddy will invariably shoot one half the size of mine.

    I've found the best bang for the buck for improving groups comes from changing 3 things. 1) Fixing the horrible trigger pull that comes with a Cetme trigger pack. 2) Get the rifle off of a bipod and onto a solid front rest like the one shown in my previous photo and lastly, 3) get a good rear squeeze bag for the butt of the rifle to sit on top of. The front rest needs to be heavy regardless of it's design (iron rest or sand bag) so the weight of the rifle doesn't move it. The front rest is used to set your initial vertical alignment, the fine vertical adjustments are made by squeezing the rear bag with your off hand. The only place you are touching the rifle is with your shooting hand and trigger finger. With the rifle nested on the bags you can focus on sight picture and trigger control to discover what the rifle is capable of.


  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redtail View Post
    Then it's a good thing I'm asking about barrel harmonics, and not your opinions on whether or not you approve of my groupings.
    Barrel harmonics are something else, you mentioned that the wind opened your group up. There was no approval or disapproval in my post about your group, just sayin that the wind wasn't the culprit. I was enjoying following this thread and I thought you were here to discuss what your rifle was doing. I see that my comments aren't welcome, sorry to butt in, buddy...
    https://www.backcountrychronicles.co...ft-estimation/
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  4. #34
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    WBC........good reference wrt effect of & accounting for wind.....thx!

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by WildBillCody View Post
    Barrel harmonics are something else, you mentioned that the wind opened your group up. There was no approval or disapproval in my post about your group, just sayin that the wind wasn't the culprit. I was enjoying following this thread and I thought you were here to discuss what your rifle was doing. I see that my comments aren't welcome, sorry to butt in, buddy...
    https://www.backcountrychronicles.co...ft-estimation/
    I read your link, and i think I see what happened here. It looks like you misunderstood my post (possibly because I was unclear) and I took it personally.
    I'd like to apologize for being a child, and to clarify my evaluation.

    I fired two groups off of the bipod and got very large group sizes (4-6" at 100 yards). The larger group was one representative example of this.

    Because I was concerned something else was wrong with the gun, I then removed the bipod and shot three groupings which were mostly within what I would consider to be optimal performance except for some unusual vertical stringing which Sierra's website led me to believe was nothing more than a result of wildly varying drag on the projectiles due to gusting headwind. The group with the nearly perfect vertical string was a representative of this pattern.

  6. #36
    WildBillCody's Avatar
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    No worries everyone has one of those days.

    I'm not doubting that it might be possible for wind to have an effect on a bullets flight (up or down) maybe even at +/-30 or 50 mph, but not at 100 yards, there simply isn't time (approx 111 milliseconds).

    If you can't get it free floated you could always try constant pressure like the ear plug trick, but maybe more permanent. Enfields and Springfields were stocked like that with constant upwards pressure, anything to get it consistent, maybe even a metal spring or two shoved between the triple tree and the barrel.
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  7. #37
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    Thank you for understanding.

    Part of the current plan involves constructing a whole new foregrip for it, but constructing the mounts for it in such a way that I can easily revert to the old system again if the new system does not perform to my expected level.
    I'm not actually looking for it to shoot better than it does now, I'm just looking for it to shoot sub-MOA on a bipod so that I can start using it for long range shooting sports.

    It's an odd situation because I think it technically is freefloated until I put pressure on the bipod.

  8. #38
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    If you want to hear a much overpriced opinion i.e. my 2-cents worth, I wonder what the results would be to do away with the fore end entirely and remove the front sight frame so that the barrel is free-floated entirely. You already have, if I understand correctly, a block back at the receiver with two rods extending forward intended as a bipod mount, so it seems like the hard work is already done. If the cocking tube needs additional support, maybe add something to the bipod support rods to extend up past the barrel, not touching, of course, to support the cocking tube.

    Beyond this point it may be time to tame barrel harmonics, so possibly something like the adjustable weights that people used to hang under the barrel of their Mini-14s to improve accuracy?

  9. #39
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    I don't think he has the bars on it yet, something he was thinking of doing. Here's another thought, I don't have anything better than paint to try and show you. What about removing the part of the triple tree that goes around the barrel entirely? then create a collar to go around the cocking tube that the handguard screw would go through, as long as the barrel doesn't touch the the handguard it would be free floated and the handguard and the cocking tube would hold the bipod on. Or you could just weld a block to the bottom of the cocking tube for the handguard screw as well.IMG_20200718_213540895.jpg
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  10. #40
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    Something I did several years ago was put together a CETME with a G3 cocking tube. It has the atatchment point at the end for the handgaurd and the end is a lot smaller than the CETME so when installed into the CETME triple tree it essentially free floats the barrel. As long as the handgaurd is also not touching inside. It works.

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    Last edited by Otis61; 04-11-2021 at 12:20 AM.
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